FRP brake kits and read Differential cooling kit

[Tank]

Guys,

You are probably far better off selling your tech packs and buy a used 16/17 track pack. The install for this is way way way too involved not to mention you are stuck with switches that look like they came from apollo space program in 1970s.

Arrogant post, dude.

I paid cash on an MSRP deal. I don't think I am far better off eating 8-10k on bogus depreciation and then the mark up on a new one.

I also appreciate the challenge in making my GT350 whole and am confident I'll figure out an install without the need for the switches.

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[UnhandledException]

Arrogant post, dude.

I paid cash on an MSRP deal. I don't think I am far better off eating 8-10k on bogus depreciation and then the mark up on a new one.

I also appreciate the challenge in making my GT350 whole and am confident I'll figure out an install without the need for the switches.

I m all for challenges and DIY work. I just got done doing underground sprinklers on my own for a 1 acre property with 16 zones using nothing but a jackhammer and a trenching spade. So i m not some cocky guy here being an armchair theorist. In this case though the negatives outweigh the positives. The stuff you are buying even at discount plus the tools you need plus the wnormous amount of time you spent not to mention the huge resale hit your car takes for such an extensive modification is not worth it. You could sell your car for 52-53k, pay the 6-7k on top and get a brand new car. Not only the difference will amortize across 6-7 years for the auto loan but also it will be a brand new car.

You guys are drilling holes in your cockpit, I appreciate the effort overall but your only chance of selling that car is trading it in at a dealer at a loss. I personally would never buy a car modified that heavily. I'd rather pay 5k more and get a track pack, wouldnt you (be objective)?

 

[Lurker_350]

I m all for challenges and DIY work. I just got done doing underground sprinklers on my own for a 1 acre property with 16 zones using nothing but a jackhammer and a trenching spade. So i m not some cocky guy here being an armchair theorist. In this case though the negatives outweigh the positives. The stuff you are buying even at discount plus the tools you need plus the wnormous amount of time you spent not to mention the huge resale hit your car takes for such an extensive modification is not worth it. You could sell your car for 52-53k, pay the 6-7k on top and get a brand new car. Not only the difference will amortize across 6-7 years for the auto loan but also it will be a brand new car.

You guys are drilling holes in your cockpit, I appreciate the effort overall but your only chance of selling that car is trading it in at a dealer at a loss. I personally would never buy a car modified that heavily. I'd rather pay 5k more and get a track pack, wouldnt you (be objective)?

You're off base in my opinion. When I tried exactly what you suggest, I was offered 48k for a 2016 tech with 4k miles, but given a "break" on the new one with a $1500 discount from MSRP. That works out to ~ $10k.

You may enjoy digging ditches and installing sprinklers, others may enjoy working on their cars. To each their own. In addition, [MENTION=21788]Tank[/MENTION] mentioned he paid cash, so bringing up amortization is irrelevant.

Let's keep bickering out of this thread, as it has great information for those of us who want a cooled differential in a 2015/16 tech or base car. There are plenty of other places to berate those of us who own "inferior" cars.

 

[Tank]

I m all for challenges and DIY work. I just got done doing underground sprinklers on my own for a 1 acre property with 16 zones using nothing but a jackhammer and a trenching spade. So i m not some cocky guy here being an armchair theorist. In this case though the negatives outweigh the positives. The stuff you are buying even at discount plus the tools you need plus the wnormous amount of time you spent not to mention the huge resale hit your car takes for such an extensive modification is not worth it. You could sell your car for 52-53k, pay the 6-7k on top and get a brand new car. Not only the difference will amortize across 6-7 years for the auto loan but also it will be a brand new car.

You guys are drilling holes in your cockpit, I appreciate the effort overall but your only chance of selling that car is trading it in at a dealer at a loss. I personally would never buy a car modified that heavily. I'd rather pay 5k more and get a track pack, wouldnt you (be objective)?

I'm not looking to belabor this but you are the umpteenth person coming to this forum attempting to save us from ourselves.

 

[Cammer]

It's probably best to ignore the unhelpful comments here and concentrate on providing info to fellow Tech Pack owners.

My car didn't have a bolt in the location in the trunk where you need to attach the ground for the pump. You'll need an M6-1.0x25 flanged bolt for this. Also, the threaded hole for this bolt had overspray in it so I had to clean it out with a tap.

I gave a question about the pipe fittings preinstalled on the diff cover in the kit. You'll notice that there's a black rubber (?) piece inside that would appear to block oil flow when the pump is going. Are they some sort of seal that works once the pipes are pushed into the fittings or do they need to be removed?

Thanks.

Brian

 

[cking]

This is touchy subject, I see both sides. From the accountant side, put it up for sale take the loss and move on. Just like a bad stock choice waiting just makes worse. Now if intrinsic value isn't important and you plan to keep the car and track it go for it. It will be like any other modified track car you'll never get money back but that's not important the fun is. Now if status is important you must buy a R!

I impressed by those who choose to this themselves !

 

[cking]

good catch! That would have be awful if missed and had to go back in again!

post pic!

 

[Hack]

I gave a question about the pipe fittings preinstalled on the diff cover in the kit. You'll notice that there's a black rubber (?) piece inside that would appear to block oil flow when the pump is going. Are they some sort of seal that works once the pipes are pushed into the fittings or do they need to be removed?

Thanks.

Brian

You are going to want to remove any plugs from the diff cover. I don't remember the black plugs you are talking about though. The diff cover I bought had white plugs that were obviously plugs. It wouldn't have been possible to screw the fittings into the cover without removing them.

Can you post a photo?

 

[Cammer]

I'll post I pic tonight when I get back home.

My local speed shop is going to do the diff cover replacement for me tomorrow.

Brian

 

[UnhandledException]

I apologize, I did not mean to be rude neither I wanted to ruin the thread. I see where you guys are coming from.

 

[Cammer]

The first pic is from the inside of the diff cover.

The second pic is from the outside of the diff cover. You can see "perforations" that I believe tear when the pipe is pushed into the fitting, thus forming a gasket.

I poked at it with a screwdriver and it's thin and probably silicone rubber.

Brian

 

[Hack]

The first pic is from the inside of the diff cover.

The second pic is from the outside of the diff cover. You can see "perforations" that I believe tear when the pipe is pushed into the fitting, thus forming a gasket.

I poked at it with a screwdriver and it's thin and probably silicone rubber.

Brian

I think you're probably right, but sorry I have no idea. My cover came without the fittings and my fittings came with the hoses, so I didn't have the part shown in your photo.

 

[cking]

lets look at fitting that connects to it. Never seen anything like it. Tech sure advances fast, so much stuff on these cars that amazes me.

 

[Caballus]

Without looking - I'd guess that the cars that came originally with the pumps, had the wiring for them integrated into the factory harness, to some degree. I doubt anyone would want to pay for, or replace an entire harness, so...

Well, I know some members on here were trying to experiment with methods to turn on the factory pump, and they couldn't do it with a simple 12V power feed. This system is set up to operate from a simple 12V power feed, and apparently FPP decided that the easiest or best way to do that was to change the pump.

I got this wrong. The stock pump says FoMoCo on the black plastic cap, but the pump that looks pretty much identical that comes with the cooler kit has a slightly different black plastic cap that doesn't say FoMoCo on it.

Good insights, thanks. Seems like this one is gonna hurt a little...

 

[Cammer]

The diff cooler is now in and working. After my fail at removing the half shafts, I took it to my buddies at Portland Speed Industries and they got them removed with a little persuasion (5lb mallet) and got the new cover on and the car reassembled. Prying on the half shafts did nothing. It was a prybar directly contacting the part of the half shaft that you pry against and hitting it straight on with the mallet that did it. The circlips on the half shafts were very oval in shape which made them very difficult to compress.

The Tech told me that the fittings that I provided pics for above are similar to air conditioning fittings and yes, the black silicone piece in there becomes a gasket when the tube is pushed into the fitting, sealing it.

The only "bad" thing about this adventure is that I can't take full credit for the installation. Of course, now I'm only thinking about the next track day!

Brian

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