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Hangman77

Hangman77

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We do tuning with HP tuners on my personal mopars and my dads 2020 gt500

sct on my older mustangs

and we do motec on our lotus racecars.

I’ll have to do some asking in regards to making the car happy after disconnection the magneride. I’ll let you know what I find out
 

mavisky

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We do tuning with HP tuners on my personal mopars and my dads 2020 gt500

sct on my older mustangs

and we do motec on our lotus racecars.

I’ll have to do some asking in regards to making the car happy after disconnection the magneride. I’ll let you know what I find out
The magneride delete modules "should" work just fine, but there have been rare issues of them not working 100%
 

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Ohlins I know has had issues but I think Xineering’s offering from Shock Shims has had great success.
 

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honeybadger

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I'm personally a fan of the penskes - Cortex is more cost effective than the equal MCS kits and customer service with Penskes is second to none. You can actually call and talk to the engineers building them.

One note - the magneride deletes simulate a bunch of CAN parameters that the car does use of TC and ABS. If one of them fails, it can cause ABS to freak out and do weird things - like lock a tire at high speed (I had this happen and almost hit the wall in Turn 6 at Road Atlanta).

One of the many reasons I switched to Bosch ABS and motorsport ECU/PDM. Not a cheap or easy swap tho.
 

JAJ

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Magride deletes solve a problem you can sidestep quite easily if you leave the ride height sensors in place and wired. You just plug resistors into the plugs for the struts and dampers. The VDM gets all the sensor data it needs and it thinks the shocks are still there and all is well.

If you have to take the sensors out, that's more difficult. There might be a switch you can flip (in either the ABS or IPC or BCM) with Forscan to make the car think that it's a 2016 Base GT350 or a 2016 Tech Pack that came without magride, but I've never looked for it.
 

NGOT8R

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Were you guys ever able to get your issues sorted out since the installation of your SDE or other brand of Magneride delete sensors? I tried running SDEs and would intermittently get the Suspension Fault - Speed Limited to 80 MPH. I also recently received DTC U0416.

I may have found a solution that works better than the SDE sensors. if you guys are still looking for a possible solution to the problem, here is what I’ve done. Note: I’m still evaluating, but so far it seems to be working perfectly. I will update my thread after I perform more rigorous testing.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/diy-magneride-delete-option.196442/

Here’s another related thread.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-trac-abs-warning-lights.196391/#post-3932655
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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I'm personally a fan of the penskes - Cortex is more cost effective than the equal MCS kits and customer service with Penskes is second to none. You can actually call and talk to the engineers building them.

One note - the magneride deletes simulate a bunch of CAN parameters that the car does use of TC and ABS. If one of them fails, it can cause ABS to freak out and do weird things - like lock a tire at high speed (I had this happen and almost hit the wall in Turn 6 at Road Atlanta).

One of the many reasons I switched to Bosch ABS and motorsport ECU/PDM. Not a cheap or easy swap tho.
id like to eliminate the use of a standalone system for the car. Stock ecu would be nice as I keep this setup a hybrid street track setup.

What all is needed along with the spring and shock kit? How much supporting hardware goes with it? Site seems vague. I would have to call them next week and start picking their brain.

I got with my dad and we are gonna do coilivers on all 4 corners.

what clutch kit were you running when you were manual?
 

JAJ

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Were you guys ever able to get your issues sorted out since the installation of your SDE or other brand of Magneride delete sensors? I tried running SDEs and would intermittently get the Suspension Fault - Speed Limited to 80 MPH. I also recently received DTC U0416.

I may have found a solution that works better than the SDE sensors. if you guys are still looking for a possible solution to the problem, here is what I’ve done. Note: I’m still evaluating, but so far it seems to be working perfectly. I will update my thread after I perform more rigorous testing.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/diy-magneride-delete-option.196442/

Here’s another related thread.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-trac-abs-warning-lights.196391/#post-3932655
When I wrote this in this thread a few days back:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-build-thread-heavy-build.152939/post-3940056

I was describing exactly that solution. It's been around since 2016. I helped someone do this change a few years back and spec'd the resistors and the connectors (you don't have to cut them off the shocks) for the change. Not brain surgery.

You do have to leave the ride height sensors in place, though. Otherwise it locks up driving modes.
 

NGOT8R

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When I wrote this in this thread a few days back:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-build-thread-heavy-build.152939/post-3940056

I was describing exactly that solution. It's been around since 2016. I helped someone do this change a few years back and spec'd the resistors and the connectors (you don't have to cut them off the shocks) for the change. Not brain surgery.

You do have to leave the ride height sensors in place, though. Otherwise it locks up driving modes.
Without cutting off and reusing the pigtails from the shocks, or locating new ones, the factory wiring harness would still have to be cut in order to install a 2 pin weatherpack connector. In my case, I was never intending to reuse my MR shocks again, so I just cut them off.

I did leave the ride height sensors in place as you mentioned.
 
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Hangman77

Hangman77

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Forgot to mention that i beat all three of my personal best lap times on my home tracks.

Daytona 2:05.440

Sebring 2:20.290

Homestead have to get it off my garmin.

Picked up 3 seconds of Sebring

and 2 seconds on Daytona.

switching to the more aggressive pagid compound brakes helped I think.

that and plenty of seat time. Daytona has another 2 seconds in it. The bus stop is always critical, I think I can clean that up a little bit.

Sebring is my most frequently driven track, and pulling a 2:20 on Sebring in a Street car is hauling ass. Sebring also has some sketchy spots, very high speed entries and high speed exits. Allot of crashes happen at Sebring. It’s a long track. So you have to keep it together for a while.

good to see this car getting some solid times in. Can’t dispute that it’s fast around a track that’s for sure.

homestead I have the most competition time, there is zero fear on that track. It’s very technical, you have to have you alignment down perfectly, and very good brakes. There’s a few lines that could always need some touching up. But I feel like I’m driving slow when I’m out there. Very comfortable.

IMG_7103.png
IMG_7102.png
 

TonyNJ

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Phillip, What's the seat and seat belt set up currently in this car? OEM Recaros still in place? Cage? 4 or 6 points harness or did you revert back to the original 3 point seat belts now that it's a 90% street car?

Edit: maybe the 90% street car comment was an old one. I see you're really amping up the track times.
 
 
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