The big Intercooler thread.

[lizardrko]

Thanks, I understand - but wouldn't removing the active shutters result in a check engine light, or any other dash warnings?

Is there a guide to replace the front grill with that of the GT? Does that satisfy the removal of the shutters?

Sorry - too many questions here, but seeing 130 - 150 degrees on a regular basis on my charge temps are scaring me.

Some people have seen a CEL for the shutters, some have not. Some keep the sensor plugged in rather than just hanging.

There are plenty of guides for replacing the front grill. I have the RTR grille and it wasnt too bad, just dont wanna take that damn bumper off again lol. I am not sure if it will satisfy removing the front shutters. Its not the grill thats the problem, the grill shutters themselves are the problem, they lie just behind the grill

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[TheLion]

I think those seeing the CEL for removing the Grille shudder's are 2015's. I have a 2016 and it throws a code (Uxxx) which is body train, not engine related. So there's no check engine light (Engine Symbol) or service light (Wrench light).

The code is there, but it's not visible with any visual indicators on the instrument cluster. You would only know it's there by plugging in scanner to the OBDII Port.

You could easily test yours, slowly force the grille shudders open with the car off, then unplug the servo and drive it for 1k miles and see if any indicators come on. You will most certainly see a Uxxxx code, again which is body train not power train relate and won't affect engine performance (other than maybe 1 mpg if that on the highway due to higher air resistance).

Shudders are related entirely to fuel economy...well they also help the car warm up quicker in the winter, which is primarily fuel economy related, lower emissions once its up to temp. However the negatively affect air flow to the inter cooler, so from a response standpoint they cause additional heat soak and hence lag while cruising. The fuel economy difference is really a paper tiger. It might be visible on paper when submitting the car to EPA certification, but not in any practical way.

With no grill shudders AND a short back end (3.73 diff) I still manage 31 on the highway cruising. The Levels is a great inter cooler for the money. But for $150 more you can step up to the best FMIC on the market made by ATM. Buy once cry once.

 

[yomamma219]

Two things:

First: I see some mention of removing grill shutters. My EB did not come with them. Not that important but, I believe this to be a pony package thing. Anyone know if this is true? I don't know that I have found a definitive answer and I haven't dug around in the car to see if they had been removed by the previous owner.

Second: I know I have mentioned this elsewhere but wanted to see if the proper thread could answer the question: Does anyone know if condensation has been an issue with any of the aftermarket FMIC?
This could possibly only be applicable in certain climates (looking at you Florida) but I was just curious as I have not seen it mentioned in a Mustang context but I believe it was an issue with the F-150. Just curious...

 

[MiDiablo]

I live in FL. I have a Levels Race Core. My car is a Premium EBM, which included the Active Grille Shutters (AGS). To install any large core unit, you will need to remove the AGS to make the larger core(s) fit. I have never noticed any lag bc of the intercooler, and have put my car down and dirty into the 11's w/o issue. And yes, you can install the MAP Street Core unit without removing the front bumper; takes about 1hr front to back to complete (if you know what you're doing). Hardest part is finagling the new unit into place, and then getting the sensor back in (both fairly simple though).

I think that covered most of the questions I saw recently posted, lol.

 

[Berstuck]

I have a 2015 with AGS removed for the last 9000 or so miles with no codes, pending or otherwise....

 

[Berstuck]

For those of you who had installed a bigger unit like Full Race or ETS, did you notice any turbo lagg? Or any changes with pressure drop?

Drives like stock with my ETS

 

[Regs]

Man all I had to do was look up two or three posts - thank you TheLion for the CEL info.

Not even my mechanic understands why there is active grill shutters. I guess for winter days and MPG.

 

[AR306]

Thanks, I understand - but wouldn't removing the active shutters result in a check engine light, or any other dash warnings?

Is there a guide to replace the front grill with that of the GT? Does that satisfy the removal of the shutters?

Sorry - too many questions here, but seeing 130 - 150 degrees on a regular basis on my charge temps are scaring me.

I had the same concern, I wasn't aware you could simply remove the motor/sensor from the AGS.. Lol. So I took it apart, removed the motor/sensor thingy's, left them plugged in and zip tied them, no issues.

Also, removing the bumper on the s550 is surprisingly easy.. a little too easy if you ask me, the whole assembly seems kind of frail Lol. I believe CJ Pony parts did a video on replacing grilles which is pretty detailed but it's not that hard to figure out. The hardest part of swapping the grille is probably putting the new one into the bumper with those pressure clips, the top grille was semi-easy, the bottom grille was a pita.

 

[vegetakid24]

I'm currently running a CPE FMIC intercooler with stock piping and the Ford racing performance tune and it works wonderfully. Later on, I'm thinking of switching to a tune+ tune and running e85, etc and I was wondering if I should / will need to upgrade my intercooler / piping?

 

[clubamericalara]

In that texas heat I would certainly get a bigger intercooler than a cpe. I have a mishimoto intercooler which is ok, however on the dyno by the 3rd pull im heat soaked.

 

[Glenn G]

I'm currently running a CPE FMIC intercooler with stock piping and the Ford racing performance tune and it works wonderfully. Later on, I'm thinking of switching to a tune+ tune and running e85, etc and I was wondering if I should / will need to upgrade my intercooler / piping?

Data log a few pulls and you can see if you need to spend the money but I don't think you will. CPE is more than adequate for the Stock turbo 99% of the time. Maybe on those really, really hot days you would see some benefit of the larger units.

In Germany (not Texas heat I know) the difference between the MAP street and much Larger MAP race was only a few degrees and it was 1 Degree cooler when I tested the Race core.

In that texas heat I would certainly get a bigger intercooler than a cpe. I have a mishimoto intercooler which is ok, however on the dyno by the 3rd pull im heat soaked.

Dynos are brutal on ICs, Short of a Jet Propulsion Laboratory windtunnel, no fan can provide the airflow that a highway pull at speed would. You will find the Mishi holding up just fine on the road.

 

[MakStang]

I'm currently running a CPE FMIC intercooler with stock piping and the Ford racing performance tune and it works wonderfully. Later on, I'm thinking of switching to a tune+ tune and running e85, etc and I was wondering if I should / will need to upgrade my intercooler / piping?

cp-e is a great intercooler. If I am not mistaken it can hold up to 500-550hp so it should be fine if you push your engine to its limits. Nice cooling capabilities, no pressure drop and great quality. Go to my post at the following thread (post 159), where I show some graphs comparing the stock FMIC to the cp-e one and see [MENTION=23593][email protected][/MENTION] comments as well:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365&page=11

You are fine with the cp-e even with your planned mods. Take this from someone who lives in a VERY hot climate!

 

[smdandb2]

One day I will actually finish this install.

The cp-e race core is a BEAST. I have not even driven with it installed, and I already love it. The install was as simple as could be, easily a one person job.

 

[vegetakid24]

cp-e is a great intercooler. If I am not mistaken it can hold up to 500-550hp so it should be fine if you push your engine to its limits. Nice cooling capabilities, no pressure drop and great quality. Go to my post at the following thread (post 159), where I show some graphs comparing the stock FMIC to the cp-e one and see [MENTION=23593][email protected][/MENTION] comments as well:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365&page=11

You are fine with the cp-e even with you planned mods. Take this from someone who lives in a VERY hot climate!

Thanks everyone for your advice I will stick with my cpe intercooler for now. I may buy those tension clamps posted on Adams website as I get closer to completing my build.

 

[MakStang]

Nice setup [MENTION=10786]smdandb2[/MENTION]! Great piece of equipment!

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