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[GreenS550]

I have that same blower. I had issues with Livernois and their tune on my car. I ended up tired of chasing them and went over to a Lund tune. When I had the Livernois tune, I never got the drivability nailed down. It would not hold a gear properly. The other issue I had with the Livernois tune was that I would get audible pinging when in a low RPM and part throttle. I think its possible that they tune for maximum power and don't leave any margin of error (like for a batch of crappy gas). Just my opinion, not sure that this is a true fact. I can tell you that their tune sucked bad on my automatic trans car. Enough to make me swallow $450 for a custom tune from Lund. Plus, of course, an additional $300 for the SCT tuner.

Totally agree on the way the car shifted. Very irritating, but they insist that the '15 up are torque sensing and that's why it backs off just before the shift. Their NA tune was just excellent. Shifts were excellent. But, the car was not fun to drive becaue of this. So, you are saying that with my-your setup, the Lund tune changed the quirks?

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[GreenS550]

From what I've been learning about tuning, which is 5% of what you can know, I'm sure, the tune could have either had the knock sensors turned off (that'd be negligence, IMHO) and/or the tune was not safe. But what I've also learned about tuning is that so much gets blamed on a tune, when it's really a pre-existing mechanical issue or an issue caused by physical part. For example, the flex joint on the passenger side of the stock headers on these cars has been identified as a cause for false knock, yet people blame the tuner. Some unlucky people (rare) who install aftermarket headers find they aren't producing the power they expect and see knock in data logs only to find out later that after forcing the collector pipes apart a little eliminates what was, once again, false knock. But, obviously, if their tuner turned off the knock sensors or created an unsafe tune on top of that, well...


You run the risk of something breaking when you modify the car. Bad gas? So incredibly rare that I don't buy that (and the car should have retarded timing significantly and you would have noticed it with either misfires or loss of power if the gas was really "bad"). I honestly think your engine just had it coming... I mean unless they dropped something in a piston bore and it finally caused havoc, but that's also not likely.


I am not and likely nobody else here is an expert on diagnosing the root cause. The advice to bring it to a trusted performance mechanic for a second opinion is the best advice so far.

I will report back when LMS calls me tomorrow. We will see what they say...

 

[Ggradtech]

Totally agree on the way the car shifted. Very irritating, but they insist that the '15 up are torque sensing and that's why it backs off just before the shift. Their NA tune was just excellent. Shifts were excellent. But, the car was not fun to drive becaue of this. So, you are saying that with my-your setup, the Lund tune changed the quirks?

I have had the Lund tune for more than a year. Shifts are perfect, no audible detonation and has perfect drivability. The Livernois tune did have good power, but it wasn't worth running it in my opinion. Maybe Livernois would have addressed my tuning issues back when I was trying to get it ironed out. I was chasing them for weeks and they were of no help whatsoever. The tuning guy that was there (at that time) was fired or quit, so I shouldn't rag on them too badly I guess.

 

[yonson]

Bad gas? Lol.

These cars have the ability to retard timing in the event you get a tank of gas that cannot support the spark built into the tune.

Unless they turned off the knock sensors.

What kind of fuel do you run OP?

Not if your wife puts 87 octane in it, or they accidentally put 87 in the 93 tank, etc... it's gonna go boom...

 

[Ggradtech]

Not if your wife puts 87 octane in it, or they accidentally put 87 in the 93 tank, etc... it's gonna go boom...

It's a bit of a scary thought...We also need to have 100% faith in the gas stations . What if they mix up the gasolime deliveries or they are a sketchy owner who decides to run lesser than advertised octane. I dont want to think about it:shocked:

 

[Roh92cp]

Some unlucky people (rare) who install aftermarket headers find they aren't producing the power they expect and see knock in data logs only to find out later that after forcing the collector pipes apart a little eliminates what was, once again, false knock.

I agree with everything you said except, I'm not sure I understand what your saying here in the route above. How does forcing the collector apart a little help? Forcing it apart would make it loose and cause rattle. You want constant clamping and tension there so it doesn't move or vibrate.

 

[Crackerjack17]

I agree with everything you said except, I'm not sure I understand what your saying here in the route above. How does forcing the collector apart a little help? Forcing it apart would make it loose and cause rattle. You want constant clamping and tension there so it doesn't move or vibrate.

I think what hes saying is... sometimes the pipes as they snake down to the collector are touching lightly and cause a false knock. By wedging them apart a little bit, it keeps them from touching each other.

 

[sy1462]

Just remember, Yeah the car has knock sensors and retards timing for bad gas... But that's after the knock has happened. So damage can occur.

This... If you can audibly "hear" knock it is severe it has already happened before the knock sensors can react. Much more severe than a couple of degrees. If you can actually hear knock caused by pre-ignition or some other root cause with any FI setup stay completely out of boost until you figure it out. Relying on your knock sensors to save your motor at that point will result in you having a very bad day.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Sorry to hear this, I know you did everything correctly and stayed pretty conservative.

I don't know if I am buying this bad gas idea either. Here is what I would want to know:

-Have they checked for codes?
-Checked the cats?
-Leak down test?
-Which cylinder is bad?
-Checked the plugs?
-Do you have any logs?

 

[69mach1-395]

Sorry OP, but anytime one goes for bigger power there is a risk of bad things happening. I went thru a couple of motors on my old Mach1 and feel for you, which is why I will no longer play with fire...good luck man.

 

[GreenS550]

This... If you can audibly "hear" knock it is severe it has already happened before the knock sensors can react. Much more severe than a couple of degrees. If you can actually hear knock caused by pre-ignition or some other root cause with any FI setup stay completely out of boost until you figure it out. Relying on your knock sensors to save your motor at that point will result in you having a very bad day.

There was no audible knock. I would certainly not have driven the car or put it under a load if I heard anything.

 

[GreenS550]

Sorry to hear this, I know you did everything correctly and stayed pretty conservative.

I don't know if I am buying this bad gas idea either. Here is what I would want to know:

-Have they checked for codes?
-Checked the cats?
-Leak down test?
-Which cylinder is bad?
-Checked the plugs?
-Do you have any logs?

The check engine light went on and the p0300 code came up. Multiple cylinder misfire. I told them this the first time I brought the car there. They kept it for a couple weeks driving it, etc. That's when they said there was a random rev limiter issue which they fixed, I guess. I don't know which cylinder is bad. Right now they are just going by the sound of the idle, the p0300 code again and the puffing when the oil filler cap is taken off. They are supposed to get back with me today.
The cats wouldn't cause blow by, would it? They told me before they thought it was a broken ring or piston. It just seems as though it takes days for any response. We will see what they say today, assuming they call as promised.

 

[GreenS550]

Sorry OP, but anytime one goes for bigger power there is a risk of bad things happening. I went thru a couple of motors on my old Mach1 and feel for you, which is why I will no longer play with fire...good luck man.

In my old hot rod days, 40+ years ago, I experienced all kinds of issues as you are stating. But, I've owned 4 S197, 2 of which were FI. They ran flawlessly. One I put the Vortech on and got a mail order tune from Brenspeed. No issues, and I put 20+K miles one each with perhaps over a hundred runs at the dragstrip with drag radials. They were great.

I decided to be really conservative and had the opg/sprockets installed to be safe. Less HP than my old '11 Roush. Almost no miles, no drag radials and very little miles and then this.

 

[5.oh]

sounds like piss poor tuning. Id certainly get a second opinion. If they did fuck something up the could be trying to cover it up and pass the buck on to you.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

The check engine light went on and the p0300 code came up. Multiple cylinder misfire. I told them this the first time I brought the car there. They kept it for a couple weeks driving it, etc. That's when they said there was a random rev limiter issue which they fixed, I guess. I don't know which cylinder is bad. Right now they are just going by the sound of the idle, the p0300 code again and the puffing when the oil filler cap is taken off. They are supposed to get back with me today.
The cats wouldn't cause blow by, would it? They told me before they thought it was a broken ring or piston. It just seems as though it takes days for any response. We will see what they say today, assuming they call as promised.

Check out this thread regarding cats and engine damage. Your symptoms sound very similar.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104428

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