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Will my car survive track days?

Cardude99

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So I am posting this as I am really interested in getting into track days. I like my car but I am realizing that it may not have been the best choice to be a track car. Autocross sure but track, idk??? I have a lot of mods, see my signature and am hoping I don't need too many more. I realize that I would need upgraded pads, fluid and possibly rotors but I don't want to invest in those items unless I can get my money out of them and attend about 4-6 track days a year.

Can a tuned Ecoboost with the A10 transmission handle and reliably run 3 to 4 20 min sessions on a track multiple times a year? This is my daily so I have to tread cautiously as I don't want to start breaking drivetrain parts. For an autocross its no big deal but a track experience is a new animal all together. What is the consensus for an eco at the track? What else other than brakes will I need?

I suspect cooling to the trans, engine and diff may be needed at some point but don't want to invest in those items right away if I don't have to. I run amsoil but suspect I may need better trans and diff fluid too? I have got to a point where I don't want to invest too much more into this car and I just want to have fun with it now as it pretty much drives the way I want it to.

Potentially crashing aside lol, if taking this to a track is going to be too much of a headache then I'll just stick to autocross. But if it's doable then I really would like to become a better driver and start doing a lot of tracking. Any and all input/ advice is appreciated and welcome.

Also getting another car is not an option at this time, yes I should have got a manual and yes I should have got a V8. Now that's out of the way lol
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Radiation Joe

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I think you'll be fine with just flushing the brake fluid a few days prior to the event. I'm assuming you have a performance package car. If not, the pads may not be up to the task at even a novice level. The stock pads on a PP car are adequate for 20 minute novice sessions.
 
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Cardude99

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I think you'll be fine with just flushing the brake fluid a few days prior to the event. I'm assuming you have a performance package car. If not, the pads may not be up to the task at even a novice level. The stock pads on a PP car are adequate for 20 minute novice sessions.
Yes performance package but Ecoboost so same brakes as a base gt. I know those pads are not sufficient for a track day
 

Radiation Joe

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I believe the ecoboost PP is equipped with ds2500 pads. They are more than adequate for 20 minute sessions.
 

fatbillybob

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You will be fine if you drive slow. Really slow...
 

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Cardude99

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Grintch

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Lol not exactly what I'm going for
Really slow on a track is still faster than really fast on an autocross course.

The EB is lighter, so that somewhat makes up for the smaller brakes.

Do an event and keep an eye on temps. I have seen a number of guys do a track day in stock non PP GT's with no issues. But it doesn't work so well with experienced drivers, sticky tires, and pushing the limits. Worst case (excluding driving like an idiot and crashing) is you have to back off a bit or cut sessions short. But doing one event will tell you a - how much you like doing it, and b - if you have any issues that you need to address to have more fun. Then you can decide if b is worth it given a.
 
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fatbillybob

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Lol not exactly what I'm going for
Basically you need coolers and brakes or you are driving too slow. I gave up and drove home 1/2 way through my 1st test trackday on 2019 PP1 GT. I'm a clubracer with high expectations thinking the PP1 GT was a performance car. What I found is a lot of painful and costly work ahead of me. It is hugely less painful or costly if you are only doing a few trackdays a year for fun.
 

Ewheels

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Do the EB PP cars have those backwards rotors?

Some cheap "cooling" mods you could do prior are Vorshlag's brake cooling deflectors (~$130) and some exhaust wrap near the diff (~$50).
Those should prolong your temps enough to have some good, safe fun. In my experience (not that I'm a pro or know what I'm doing) but 20 min sessions aren't long enough to get the diff too hot...obviously this depends on ambient temps though.
 
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Cardude99

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Hey thanks guys. Ya I'm not going to run in the summer months. Going to wait until the temps are below 80 degrees. Yes I think the rotors are backwards or at least one side is. So I do plan on picking up a set of slotted ones from tirerack along with better pads and fluid from other vendors. I am just trying to avoid spending money on coolers as that is engineering that I don't want to attempt to tackle at this time.

Also I have re71 tires that I would run
 

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Ewheels

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Hey thanks guys. Ya I'm not going to run in the summer months. Going to wait until the temps are below 80 degrees. Yes I think the rotors are backwards or at least one side is. So I do plan on picking up a set of slotted ones from tirerack along with better pads and fluid from other vendors. I am just trying to avoid spending money on coolers as that is engineering that I don't want to attempt to tackle at this time.

Also I have re71 tires that I would run
Slotted rotors don't necessarily help with cooling. The slots actually help with bite and improve pad contact. If your main goal is cooling or ability to handle heat, just focus on carbon content of the rotors and the cooling vanes themselves.

I tried to go really cheap on rotors and got Centric C-Teks. They could not handle the heat. I think the cheapest rotors that can handle the heat are Centric 125 High Carbons. For a little bit more, DBA T3 4000 rotors have a seriously good vane design for cooling.
https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-ser...Spec+4000+Series+Slotted+Rotor+-+Single+Rotor

Obviously the expensive 2pc rotors are going to be amazing and last a long time. I'm in a similar position as you, looking for relatively inexpensive and best bang for the buck parts.
 

Grafanton

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Again? Really?
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tracking-the-ecoboost.75153/

I've been tracking my Ecoboost since 2016. In 2018, I did a total of 10 track days. Nothing on this car has failed. It hasn't even been to a shop except for oil changes, tires, alignments and upgrades. Just converted to the Brembo 6-piston calipers for instance. The car has been dead reliable from day one.

This is my daily driver and I just crossed 90,000 miles and I'm going to Mid-Ohio this weekend.

Frequent fluid changes are the only caveat.

I will say the rear-end is noisier than I'd like and it may need replaced before too long and in general, the car rattles a little more than your average 90,000 mile 2015 Mustang.
 
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Cardude99

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Slotted rotors don't necessarily help with cooling. The slots actually help with bite and improve pad contact. If your main goal is cooling or ability to handle heat, just focus on carbon content of the rotors and the cooling vanes themselves.

I tried to go really cheap on rotors and got Centric C-Teks. They could not handle the heat. I think the cheapest rotors that can handle the heat are Centric 125 High Carbons. For a little bit more, DBA T3 4000 rotors have a seriously good vane design for cooling.
https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-ser...Spec+4000+Series+Slotted+Rotor+-+Single+Rotor

Obviously the expensive 2pc rotors are going to be amazing and last a long time. I'm in a similar position as you, looking for relatively inexpensive and best bang for the buck parts.
Yep the dba's are what I was looking at. They look like they will be great and I'm glad to hear they cool well, haven't seen anything regarding their cooling abilities so thank you for providing that info
 

fatbillybob

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but 20 min sessions aren't long enough to get the diff too hot...obviously this depends on ambient temps though.
60F day 1st time on track in '19 GT PP1 got diff warning light in 6 laps!
 

fatbillybob

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