Whipple and Adaptive Cruise Control

[Joelang33]

that is a crazy story. never can trust people these days :doh: after seeing your experience maybe im better off leaving it alone? :shrug:

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[gqneon]

They just didn’t listen and did what they wanted and now the ACC doesn’t work at all and I’m hoping I got lucky with no internal engine damage. It runs hard like before but for some reason when I turn the key off or after the fuel system primes it goes from about 52 psi and rapdily drops to zero over a few (like 3-5) seconds. I’m wondering if an injector might have been damaged trying to run over its duty cycle or something?

 

[superman07]

typical Ford dealer from my experience.Sorry for your troubles.

 

[Whipple SC]

I’m 99 percent sure this issue is exclusive to the large HE. I am mystified as to how Whipple got theirs to fit. Like I’ve said many times, it’s not even remotely close to fitting in my car.

It does fit without modifying the bracket. You can grind the stud off, which allows bracket and sensor to stay in original position, including the locating tab. It then is sandwiched with the plastic tank and bracket is never moved. Aluminum tanks require no mods, it just fits as it doesn't share the same mounting position.

The HD heat exchanger is very close, within .125" and in some cases, with welding variation and bent brackets mounting it, along with variance in body/frame assembly, it could be near interference to the sensor bracket. In this case, you can shim the heat exchanger back slightly to clear the bracket. The standard heat exchanger clears with no issue.

 

[gqneon]

It does fit without modifying the bracket. You can grind the stud off, which allows bracket and sensor to stay in original position, including the locating tab. It then is sandwiched with the plastic tank and bracket is never moved. Aluminum tanks require no mods, it just fits as it doesn't share the same mounting position.

The HD heat exchanger is very close, within .125" and in some cases, with welding variation and bent brackets mounting it, along with variance in body/frame assembly, it could be near interference to the sensor bracket. In this case, you can shim the heat exchanger back slightly to clear the bracket. The standard heat exchanger clears with no issue.

Can you post installed pictures of this to benefit the community here who have been unable to do so? Maybe that would clear it all up. My journey with it has been a rough one and every day I’m reminded every time I hit the key that it doesn’t work. And I haven’t had cruise control since I installed my kit. And then the dealer fiasco when I’ve tried to get them to align it after the fact. I just want it to work but I’ve not seen anyone with a large heat exchanger post of theirs working yet which seems unusual.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I haven’t had cruise control since I installed my kit.

Just to clarify, you just don't have adaptive cruise now? on my 2016, there is a setting to select adaptive or "regular" cruise. I wouldn't expect regular cruise to be affected by a problem with the sensor but maybe I'm wrong.

Not trying to minimize the loss of adaptive cruise which is a big deal.

 

[gqneon]

It’s grayed out in the options menu but I don’t know if that’s because of what the dealership did. I never tried before that idea was posted but I don’t think it works. No way to confirm but I like the idea - I’ll take any advice I can get.

 

[moffetts]

Regular cruise control is disabled if the adaptive cruise control module is unplugged or otherwise not functional. I would also like pics of the module fitting without removing the bracket; the only way I could see it fitting is if the HE was about 3/4 of an inch further back (towards the engine). The HE doesn't move that way, though; it pivots forward and backward, but it cannot be moved forward or backward. Because of this, it doesn't fit. Not even close.

 

[Whipple SC]

Can you post installed pictures of this to benefit the community here who have been unable to do so? Maybe that would clear it all up. My journey with it has been a rough one and every day I’m reminded every time I hit the key that it doesn’t work. And I haven’t had cruise control since I installed my kit. And then the dealer fiasco when I’ve tried to get them to align it after the fact. I just want it to work but I’ve not seen anyone with a large heat exchanger post of theirs working yet which seems unusual.

To not cut the bracket, you grind the stud off.

For clearance with HD heat exchanger, if there is interference, you can shim the heat exchanger back towards condenser.

 

[gqneon]

I guess I'm going to have to buy a new bracket and see if I can grind the bolt off my car's body to get it to work. The dealer - after an hour long meeting with the service director and giving him a copy of the entire video - has selected a specific tech to address the issue next week and hopefully I can get some resolution on this. What a headache. Hopefully I don't have to grind it off and maybe we can get it working without having to buy a $200 replacement part. I've got my fingers crossed.

 

[gqneon]

Holy s*** wow... had a coolant leak after taking it to the dealership (brought it home from dealer and parked it in my garage and left for Indiana for two days). Came home to a lake of coolant under the car. Then I remembered, hey I have a dash cam let me just see if something happened while it was at the dealership....

Let’s just say I saved about an hour and a half of footage that starts when the tech got in my car and started off screaming “God d*** it... F**K!!!” and then driving hurriedly into his bay.

He lied his ass off to me about just starting it up with that stock tune he flashed and shutting it off ten seconds later. Because then he started it up again and let it rev up real high and held it revved up at different rpms himself for a couple minutes in his bay. Then it wouldn’t start and stay running and some other stuff and then got on his computer and was asking other techs if they thought ford would for for a crank sensor if he wrote it up since the cars supercharged now, which makes me think the car threw a crank error code which he also didn’t tell me about.

There’s more but I spent the whole next day taking the blower and fuel system apart looking for the leak. Found both of them and I think all the vibration and heat caused my front two hoses to start leaking because the engine valley was flooded with coolant and it lost about 1/3 gallon.

So I called the service director and just asked him to go talk to his tech and confirm his story he lied to me about with his “ten seconds and shut it off “ story, which he did and his tech lied to him too.

So I guess I’ll go up the Monday and bring him the video to watch together.

And the icing on the cake, after he drove my car around cussing out other drivers and not fixing my issue I came there for, he drove it into a parking block , cussed about that, backed up and turned the keys into the service advisor. He didn’t mention that either. I got out to my car and was wondering what I hit on the way home to have scuffed my lower valance and have a fresh white mark on it. I guess now I know.

This is why I don’t let other people work on my sh*t unless I absolutely have to. This was a simple repair and none of his needed to happen.

More to come possibly but waiting to post that video depending on what he says Monday.

So the latest update - this has been more than a month ago now - I met with the Service Director Keith Drake at Five Star Ford Plano, TX.

He watched the hour long video and decided that, as a "legal expert on engine technology," that flashing the stock tune on an E85 Whipple car and revving it for a couple minutes could not hurt it and that the engine must have been dying all along.

The fact that I drove it home and parked it for two days before driving it again and found it sitting in a lake of coolant and that it had hard starting issues (coolant in cylinder one is the cause I found out through scoping it) are all unrelated and impossible to have been caused by Ford's negligence, he indicated.

He did offer to order me a new engine at my own expense at list price as a perk, but said it would be best to have someone else do it since his labor would be too high most likely.

He curtly ended the conversation with "All the best" and that was our last communication. The sensor issue was never resolved, although I was charged for it though, so I guess that's just the icing on the cake.

HPP should have the engine apart this week (they started tearing it out last week between other jobs) to confirm where the coolant is coming from. IF it's head gaskets, I'll be unbelievably lucky, as I figure it's more likely a cracked block or (less likely) a cracked head.

You've got to pay to play and things always happen when you turn the power up - but this is just not that. Dudes had my car for a few hours to ALIGN a sensor in the bumper. Instead they blew my engine and have done their best to cover it up.

So far, not counting two months of a rental car, the bill to get it to where it needs to be is sitting at $14,000...

Sh*t is unbelievable.

Opinions - the Ford Service Director said that I could hold that engine WOT bouncing off the rev limiter with the stock tune (E10 stoich) and E85 in the tank and it couldn't hurt anything because there's no load. That - to me - sounds like complete garbage.

What do you think?

 

[superman07]

tell the service director to fill up his car with e85 and try it.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

tell the service director to fill up his car with e85 and try it.

I disagree. He's a busy man.

Snag is keys and do it for him.

 

[gqneon]

Ply if I can crash it into a parking block for him afterwards and skate on that tooo...

 

[superman07]

I disagree. He's a busy man.

Snag is keys and do it for him.

Duh, how inconsiderate of me. Definitely, hook him up.

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