Wheel bearing noise?

[NTXChris]

I need some help identifying a sound that my car developed a little over a week ago.

The sound is located at the right rear of the car, which I would usually associate with a wheel bearing, but it doesn't sound like any bad wheel bearing I've ever heard.

• The sound begins being audible around 20 miles per hour and can be heard at any speed higher
• I don't believe it's audible outside of the car. Driving through my neighborhood, I don't hear it reflecting off of other cars or houses.
• It's a buzzing/rubbing sound that increases with speed, not load.
• I don't feel any associated vibration.
• It's a higher pitch sound than I'm used to with bad wheel bearings.
• The big kicker - the day before the sound started, I remember hitting a fairly large railroad track crossing that knocked my phone off its magsafe mount. I had the windows down and stereo up that day, so maybe I didn't hear it at the onset. Note: there was no associated tire damage, so it wasn't that bad of a hit. Tires have since been rotated side to side.
• Tires are worn, and do make some noise, but I can differentiate the two. The tires are a low roar, this is a higher pitched buzz.

In an attempt to solve the issue without throwing parts at the car, I've done the following:

• Rotated the tires side-to-side; the sound stayed in the same place.
• I've done a nut and bolt check on the rear suspension. Everything was tight save for the inboard camber arm nut. Tightening that made no change to the noise.
• There is no play in the rear wheel (but I also know that bad wheel bearings don't always exhibit play until they're BAD).
• There is no sound when I rotate the rear wheel bearing manually, either. But that's at such a low speed, and with no weight on the bearing, there's a good chance it wouldn't make noise anyway.
• The sound is similar to something like a zip tie being wrapped around the drive shaft or half shaft as a prank. Similar to the loose drive shaft sticker issue.
• I've checked for anything loose that could rub on the wheel/tire, and everything is tight and out of the way.
• I've emptied the trunk just in case it was some sort of sympathetic or resonant vibration from the tool kit and detail tools that I usually carry with me.

Here are a couple of videos (for sound only, feel free to not look at my dirty back seat). That may or may not help. You can hear the sound change in pitch as I accelerate/decelerate.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNlTudxrUrEeQVyvILLPMG5EbnRaYh7bYF4Hl2Q

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOY_mRSrNJh7Z6OFpRe4JWN6AvAwQdrT3-m3ptZ

Any ideas or suggestions? In my head I was also thinking the driveshaft center bearing, but I feel no vibration, and the sound is definitely on the right side of the car. I also considered the pinion bearing, but again, that's not where the sound seems to come from. Perhaps a differential carrier bearing? I've had a bad one in another car that didn't sound like this, so I'm not convinced. I'm also fairly certain it isn't differential noise. I don't think it's diff bolts, either, as there's no movement or play in the differential when I put pressure on it with a jack (I haven't actually looked at them, though).

Other facts to consider:
Car is hovering around 70,000 miles
BMR Front Performance Springs
BMR Rear Drag Springs
BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BMR IRS Subframe Support Brace System
BMR Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit

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[GTP]

Your description is exactly the same as mine after hitting the leading edge of the Turn 5 curb at Mid-Ohio. The car developed a buzzing sound, like a propeller plane in the sky, at moderate street speeds.

I put the car on my Quickjack, and ran it with wheels on/off, etc. Would not reproduce.

It is a bit of work, but I exchanged the RR hub and the noise is gone. Well, I think it is still there faintly, but I suspect that is from the LR hub, too.

 

[NTXChris]

Your description is exactly the same as mine after hitting the leading edge of the Turn 5 curb at Mid-Ohio. The car developed a buzzing sound, like a propeller plane in the sky, at moderate street speeds.

I put the car on my Quickjack, and ran it with wheels on/off, etc. Would not reproduce.

It is a bit of work, but I exchanged the RR hub and the noise is gone. Well, I think it is still there faintly, but I suspect that is from the LR hub, too.

That’s reassuring, and also helps me think I’m not crazy. I’ve watched a few videos on R&Ring the bearing assembly, and while not easy, it doesn’t look like an unbearable job.

Did you replace with Motorcraft, or aftermarket (Timken)? The cost isn’t an issue, I want to make sure I’m getting the best part.

 

[Arknsawchuck]

My money would be on the hub. My RR went out with only 1000 miles on the car. Didn’t sound like any bad wheel bearing I’ve ever heard. Went through Al the steps you mentioned and finally just changed the hub assy. Noise is gone and been good for 17000 miles now.

 

[GTP]

That’s reassuring, and also helps me think I’m not crazy. I’ve watched a few videos on R&Ring the bearing assembly, and while not easy, it doesn’t look like an unbearable job.

Did you replace with Motorcraft, or aftermarket (Timken)? The cost isn’t an issue, I want to make sure I’m getting the best part.

I used Ford OEM hubs. OP Mustang seems to be the authority on such subjects, and he says that while even the Ford could be better, no one else has a higher quality offering so far.

To add, your full description was just like mine.

I wanted to replace my +1/2" ARP studs to +1" anyway, so I combined that with the RR hub replacement. I think I got the last 5-pack of these studs in the nation, and I am waiting for another back-ordered 5-pack. Then I will replace the LR hub. You will have an easier time with your PP car. Just hang the caliper on an S-hook. And use your jack handle on a 24" breaker bar to crack the hub nut free. (Don't forget to loosen the nut first, haha.)

On the right side, I left the knuckle intact and removed the hub by pulling the 4 bolts from the backside. Kind of a hassle, but I've done this before. Struggling with the GT350 parking brake spring didn't help either.

For the upcoming left side I am considering if I can "hinge" the knuckle downward by pulling its upper bolts. Thus giving me more direct access to the 4 hub bolts.

 

[Mikeo97]

Does it sound like this? See the video in post 3734.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vibration-between-50-70-mph.15990/page-249

 

[NTXChris]

I need some help identifying a sound that my car developed a little over a week ago.

The sound is located at the right rear of the car, which I would usually associate with a wheel bearing, but it doesn't sound like any bad wheel bearing I've ever heard.

• The sound begins being audible around 20 miles per hour and can be heard at any speed higher
• I don't believe it's audible outside of the car. Driving through my neighborhood, I don't hear it reflecting off of other cars or houses.
• It's a buzzing/rubbing sound that increases with speed, not load.
• I don't feel any associated vibration.
• It's a higher pitch sound than I'm used to with bad wheel bearings.
• The big kicker - the day before the sound started, I remember hitting a fairly large railroad track crossing that knocked my phone off its magsafe mount. I had the windows down and stereo up that day, so maybe I didn't hear it at the onset. Note: there was no associated tire damage, so it wasn't that bad of a hit. Tires have since been rotated side to side.
• Tires are worn, and do make some noise, but I can differentiate the two. The tires are a low roar, this is a higher pitched buzz.

In an attempt to solve the issue without throwing parts at the car, I've done the following:

• Rotated the tires side-to-side; the sound stayed in the same place.
• I've done a nut and bolt check on the rear suspension. Everything was tight save for the inboard camber arm nut. Tightening that made no change to the noise.
• There is no play in the rear wheel (but I also know that bad wheel bearings don't always exhibit play until they're BAD).
• There is no sound when I rotate the rear wheel bearing manually, either. But that's at such a low speed, and with no weight on the bearing, there's a good chance it wouldn't make noise anyway.
• The sound is similar to something like a zip tie being wrapped around the drive shaft or half shaft as a prank. Similar to the loose drive shaft sticker issue.
• I've checked for anything loose that could rub on the wheel/tire, and everything is tight and out of the way.
• I've emptied the trunk just in case it was some sort of sympathetic or resonant vibration from the tool kit and detail tools that I usually carry with me.

Here are a couple of videos (for sound only, feel free to not look at my dirty back seat). That may or may not help. You can hear the sound change in pitch as I accelerate/decelerate.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNlTudxrUrEeQVyvILLPMG5EbnRaYh7bYF4Hl2Q

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOY_mRSrNJh7Z6OFpRe4JWN6AvAwQdrT3-m3ptZ

Any ideas or suggestions? In my head I was also thinking the driveshaft center bearing, but I feel no vibration, and the sound is definitely on the right side of the car. I also considered the pinion bearing, but again, that's not where the sound seems to come from. Perhaps a differential carrier bearing? I've had a bad one in another car that didn't sound like this, so I'm not convinced. I'm also fairly certain it isn't differential noise. I don't think it's diff bolts, either, as there's no movement or play in the differential when I put pressure on it with a jack (I haven't actually looked at them, though).

Other facts to consider:
Car is hovering around 70,000 miles
BMR Front Performance Springs
BMR Rear Drag Springs
BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BMR IRS Subframe Support Brace System
BMR Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit

Was

I used Ford OEM hubs. OP Mustang seems to be the authority on such subjects, and he says that while even the Ford could be better, no one else has a higher quality offering so far.

To add, your full description was just like mine.

I wanted to replace my +1/2" ARP studs to +1" anyway, so I combined that with the RR hub replacement. I think I got the last 5-pack of these studs in the nation, and I am waiting for another back-ordered 5-pack. Then I will replace the LR hub. You will have an easier time with your PP car. Just hang the caliper on an S-hook. And use your jack handle on a 24" breaker bar to crack the hub nut free. (Don't forget to loosen the nut first, haha.)

On the right side, I left the knuckle intact and removed the hub by pulling the 4 bolts from the backside. Kind of a hassle, but I've done this before. Struggling with the GT350 parking brake spring didn't help either.

For the upcoming left side I am considering if I can "hinge" the knuckle downward by pulling its upper bolts. Thus giving me more direct access to the 4 hub bolts.

This is perfect. Thank you for all the detail! I’m definitely going to try getting at the bolts without disassembling the knuckle. Next resort will be hinging it down like you mentioned.

 

[NTXChris]

Does it sound like this? See the video in post 3734.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vibration-between-50-70-mph.15990/page-249

It doesn’t sound like that, and there is no associated vibration. That would drive me insane too, though.

 

[GTP]

Mine sounded similar to that. That video has a "motorboat" sound, while mine was more of a "propeller plane" sound.

 

[GTP]

Was

This is perfect. Thank you for all the detail! I’m definitely going to try getting at the bolts without disassembling the knuckle. Next resort will be hinging it down like you mentioned.

You will find that you are using various combinations of 18mm sockets and extensions on each of the four bolts. Torque is 98# so be careful to not let the socket slip off the bolt during removing or installing.

With the knuckle intact method, you may not have to lash up your axle.

With the hinged-down method, be prepared to lash up the axle before separating it from the hub. I back out my two shock bolts enough to put bungee cord ends behind their heads. The bungee supports the axle. You can loop excess bungee around the axle until the length works out. I just bought a pair of 28" rubber tie-down straps at Walmart, hoping they are the ideal length. Won't know for sure until I tackle the left side hub.

 

[NTXChris]

I finally got the bearing swapped out yesterday, and it wasn't nearly the ordeal I was expecting it to be. I initially tried loosening bearing bolts without swinging the knuckle down, but I didn't have enough various combinations of extensions and universals.

Swinging the knuckle down only added a couple of minutes, and it was super easy to loosen and retorque the bolts in that orientation. Total time start to finish was 90 minutes with my son playing gopher for all of the tools and parts.

I rolled the dice on a Timken (made in China , wish RockAuto noted that before buying), and so far so good. If it starts to make noise prematurely, I'll go back with a Ford part and not sweat it too much since the R&R isn't that involved.

Thanks again for all of the advice @GTP ! Car is back together and no longer sounding like a biplane!

 

[GTP]

Glad it worked out. Still waiting on back-ordered studs before swapping my left side hub.
And thanks for testing my "hinge down" theory - that's what I'll go to when my parts arrive!

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