What is your favorite compound/polish?

[vernonator]

I am a fan of all things Adams Polishes - quality products, American made by a self-starting entrepreneur. I don't have pics on my work pc but its REALLY hard to screw up with Adams products.

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[Juantrickpony]

Larry is amazing, I've talked with him several times and he will actually respond to anybody about anything detailing related. I felt guilty about using his time so I bought some AMMO products to show I'm not just a mooch, and I gotta say, they're way too expensive for my taste, but they're pretty great products.

Yes you can tell Larry is a genuine good dude. I agree his stuff is expensive but I don’t mind supporting someone like that. IMO the wheel cleaner and soap, although good, are overpriced. But that Skin, Hydrate, Frothe and Reflex are quite impressive and worth it.

 

[Juantrickpony]

I am a fan of all things Adams Polishes - quality products, American made by a self-starting entrepreneur. I don't have pics on my work pc but its REALLY hard to screw up with Adams products.

I agree. Big fan of Adams products too. I buy their car wash soap by the gallons.

 

[Juantrickpony]

I find our newer mustangs have a soft clear coat. My opinion anyway.

It could vary by color, and most newer cars are trending towards softer clears so that could make sense. Maybe Ford is heading that direction too. That’s why a little test spot first is always important. And start with least aggressive and move from there if need be.

 

[XS]

Yes you can tell Larry is a genuine good dude. I agree his stuff is expensive but I don’t mind supporting someone like that. IMO the wheel cleaner and soap, although good, are overpriced. But that Skin, Hydrate, Frothe and Reflex are quite impressive and worth it.

I have the first formulation of Reflex. I want to try the latest Reflex Pro when it runs out, he really put a lot of thought into it.

 

[20ducks]

Menzerna compound 400 on up to 3800. Then onto Wolfgang polishes ending up with Wolfgang Fusion. I use a Flex 3401 (the beast) with Lake County Pads. I end up with Zaino Z8 Sealant. I prefer German made products.
btw, many of the detailing products are made by only a few manufacturers. They are colored, fragrenced, packaged and labeled to retailer order. I did some digging when PBMG acquired some related operations etc. It would/should amaze any detailing newcomer of who owns who and who supplies what. It is a fascinating organizational chart. And it changes often.

 

[dh3605]

Finally got my DA polisher for Christmas. The Griot's Garage G9. What is your favorite polish/compound to use? I hear 3D one is a good 1 step as well as the Sonax Perfect Finish. TW also just released their Hybrid Solutions Pro one and done compound that Apex Detail said cuts the same but finishes better than 3D one. So many choices!

My car only has light swirls at the moment.

Perfect finish with a correcting pad is a great choice for light swirls IMO.

 

[Tacswa]

I am a fan of all things Adams Polishes - quality products, American made by a self-starting entrepreneur. I don't have pics on my work pc but its REALLY hard to screw up with Adams products.

Their detail spray leaves streaks on my black paint. I was really disappointed because I bought a gallon of it.

 

[Smunczen]

Griots garage boss system.

 

[kilobravo]

Sonax Perfect Finish, Meguiar's M105 and M205, along with a Rupes Fine (yellow) pad.

 

[86pagt]

I have had good results with Meguiars D302, and Griots Complete compound. Recently tried Turtlewax 1 and done. Very nice product used it with a Urofiber 50/50 pad, LC orange pad and also a LC black finishing pad. Just came out and YouTube has some videos on it. Very good results

 

[Rapid Red]

Couple of thoughts, somethings to think about. Compounds have a light grit, and are aggressive. They where developed to remove material.

So if worried about a thin clear and color coat. I personally think machine polishing and a compound is a screwy way to go for a shine. It will correct orange peel, paint in that area is thick...........

BUT is it under the clear, or is it the clear? Under the clear and is the paint, well I'm thinking you can guess what that means.

Sometimes and I use the word sometimes too subdue the uproar that will follow. Believe, unless there is an obvious overall dull appearance. Compounds & power buffers should be considered carefully.

In the hands of an expert, a person that knows HOW to get out of trouble. It's fine way to go, takes some time, there is a learning curve (fact).

Without knowing the surface condition of the OP car. Age & care history, the best I have is to add to the conversation.

Clay, great way to get a deep clean, check out Clay Pads or Mitts, a wonderful invention.

Simply said, elbow grease, 3M past wax, hand applied, 2 hours for me. A few towels to remove the wax, Wax on Wax off, let the car sit.

And go back wipe, buff down the wax missed, there will always be some.

Pictures below

 

[kilobravo]

Fairly new to this section of the forum but very much obsessive about paint care and detailing. I am a competent amateur at best but manage to produce some decent results.

So, @Rapid Red, I would like to add what I believe is an important point..that is, paint thickness. From what I've read and from what I've seen personally on my own meter, the average new car has approximately 100-150 microns of paint. Further reading has indicated that about half of that is clear.

Yes, you have to be careful with a "polisher" but short of those who do this for a living, no one should be polishing with a "rotary" polisher. Instead, dual action orbital is far superior AND far safer. It would be very, very difficult to burn through an average clear coat with a DA polisher. Possible? hell yeah, been there, have the video. But that is only likely to happen during extremely aggressive cutting which the vast majority of cars do not require.

I have also learned that a typical one-pass with a diminishing compound or, a two-pass with dedicated cutting and polishing compounds, will on average take no more than ten microns of clear off.

Then, if ceramic coated that paint correction will be good for at least the life of the ceramic and even if not coated but only waxed regularly, it should still hold up for eighteen months or more.

So, even the most obsessive polisher who might repeat this every two years, would require many years to get near the bottom of the clear. In many cases, the vehicle will be sold sooner rather than later, too.

Therefore, as long as the proper tools are utilized, I don't think paint correction, even for the novice, is dangerous, Certainly nothing like it was with rotary polishers and wool pads. THOSE were dangerous to be sure. The downside is, the tools are most definitely not inexpensive.

My two cents...

 

[VIPR01]

Depends - Sonax Perfect Finish One Step (fav)

Hardcore correction -Jescar cut/compound w/meguires microfiber cutting pad.

 

[Stage_3]

I am a fan of all things Adams Polishes - quality products, American made by a self-starting entrepreneur.

I agree. I use A LOT of Adam's products. Good stuff and made in the U.S.A.

My favorite polish has been and continues to be Zaino polishes. I apply by hand and my car always looks amazing afterwards.

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