What is the temp range of stock GT brake pads?

[GJarrett]

Just curious how hot the OEM pads can get; I used them at the FIRM but ran only 15 minute sessions and started to smell them and get a little fade. I'll be upgrading to more track oriented pads soon; I noted G-LOC R8s are rated for 1250 degrees F and assume that should be enough of an upgrade for a novice/intermediate that does HPDE just a couple or few times a year (?)

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[TopJimmyCooks]

If using G-Locs, go with at least a 12 in front.

 

[GJarrett]

I have an EcoBoost with a lighter front, do you still recommend 12s?

 

[Dana Pants]

You can buy brake pad temperature paint if you really care. My friends have played with it. The results generally match the statements of pad suppliers.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I have an EcoBoost with a lighter front, do you still recommend 12s?

I have an EcoBoost with a lighter front, do you still recommend 12s?

What Brake System do you have? 4 piston or base brakes?

 

[luc]

I have an EcoBoost with a lighter front, do you still recommend 12s?

If you have the 4 pistons with the reverse non- cooling rotors system, your main issue is the rotors, not the pads

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

LUC is right, the standard calipers and rotors are smaller than optimal. Here is my experience with a similar situation:

My 16-yo son has a 2019 EB Prem non-PP (lucky dude). My 20-yo daughter has tracked it twice (VIR and Summit Point) . I put Hawk DTC-60s on it. The main reason I chose that pad is that for the standard sized brakes on this car, there are fewer options available. When you have the Brembos, there are tons of choices. I did not drive the car on track but I will say that it stopped on a dime while I was bedding the brakes. I was very impressed. The pads lasted 4 days on track. Of course the calipers' rubber dust boots look like a dried up zombie mummy which would blow away into ash with a slight breeze. Keep in mind, my daughter is driving at probably no more than 6/10. I'm sure she doesn't jump on the brakes like I do, plus the car has no tune on it so she can't go more than about 120 MPH. If you have opened up the top speed, you might have another 20-30 MPH. (BTW, my dust boots look like crap too, but I'm going to replace them with APs after the first of the year so I just run 'em).

I don't think that having 150 lbs less in the front of the car is much of a consideration. When you get into the braking zone, all that weight is still going to transfer to the front wheels. The car is still 3600+.

Also, FWIW, and not wanting to hijack the thread...if you have stock engine cooling parts, you will want to do some upgrades (based on my daughter's experience):
1st time out (VIR): dash indicated "Thermal Management Mode". Didn't go limp (as far as she could tell me), just gave that alert. My son and I replaced the radiator and intercooler with Mishimoto.
2nd time out (Summit Point): display indicated oil temp as "warm". So an oil cooler should also be installed.
I'm sure there are many other cooling bits (e.g. brake cooling planes, differential coolers, etc) to be addressed, but that would best be done in another thread. You will find all sorts of guidance if you search the existing threads (it's all out there already).

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I forgot to mention...I replaced the rear calipers and rotors with the ones that come on a GT. The discs that came on the car were like little pie tins with no cooling vanes.

 

[GJarrett]

What Brake System do you have? 4 piston or base brakes?

I have OEM 4 piston GT calipers with Steeda 2 piece rotors to replace the junk OEM non-cooling rotors, with airflow ducted up from the belly pan to Vorshlag air deflectors. Most of my mods/upgrades are in my signature line.

 

[GJarrett]

LUC is right, the standard calipers and rotors are smaller than optimal. Here is my experience with a similar situation:

My 16-yo son has a 2019 EB Prem non-PP (lucky dude). My 20-yo daughter has tracked it twice (VIR and Summit Point) . I put Hawk DTC-60s on it. The main reason I chose that pad is that for the standard sized brakes on this car, there are fewer options available. When you have the Brembos, there are tons of choices. I did not drive the car on track but I will say that it stopped on a dime while I was bedding the brakes. I was very impressed. The pads lasted 4 days on track. Of course the calipers' rubber dust boots look like a dried up zombie mummy which would blow away into ash with a slight breeze. Keep in mind, my daughter is driving at probably no more than 6/10. I'm sure she doesn't jump on the brakes like I do, plus the car has no tune on it so she can't go more than about 120 MPH. If you have opened up the top speed, you might have another 20-30 MPH. (BTW, my dust boots look like crap too, but I'm going to replace them with APs after the first of the year so I just run 'em).

I don't think that having 150 lbs less in the front of the car is much of a consideration. When you get into the braking zone, all that weight is still going to transfer to the front wheels. The car is still 3600+.

Also, FWIW, and not wanting to hijack the thread...if you have stock engine cooling parts, you will want to do some upgrades (based on my daughter's experience):
1st time out (VIR): dash indicated "Thermal Management Mode". Didn't go limp (as far as she could tell me), just gave that alert. My son and I replaced the radiator and intercooler with Mishimoto.
2nd time out (Summit Point): display indicated oil temp as "warm". So an oil cooler should also be installed.
I'm sure there are many other cooling bits (e.g. brake cooling planes, differential coolers, etc) to be addressed, but that would best be done in another thread. You will find all sorts of guidance if you search the existing threads (it's all out there already).

I've already upgraded my calipers to GT calipers and my rotors to Steeda 2 piece rotors.

The last session on a hot day at VIR was 25 minutes and mine went into limp mode at the 20 minute mark. One cool down lap in a higher gear and the heat turned on high, and it was good to go for the next lap or two until the session ended. I've got a few cooling mods you can note in my signature line. Thanks for the input.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I have OEM 4 piston GT calipers with Steeda 2 piece rotors to replace the junk OEM non-cooling rotors, with airflow ducted up from the belly pan to Vorshlag air deflectors. Most of my mods/upgrades are in my signature line.

R12's at the Firm, hard on brakes. R10's if you are notnrunning an aggressive tire or pushing to hard, one compound down from the front will be suitable for the rear.

 

[GJarrett]

Thank you for the suggestion. The reason I was hoping to stay at R8 is that (from what I read) they are a lot easier on the rotors and this is also my daily driver. I am not running an aggressive tire (yet) just 285 Firestone Firehawks. I was hoping to be able to settle for less aggressive pads that are easier on the rotors and still not cook and fade... I'd prefer not to have to replace the Steeda rotors too often. It sounds like R10 front / R8 rear may be what I could/should consider using (?)

 

[Optimum Performance]

I've been street driving R10/R8 for about 6 years. Go that route.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Thank you for the suggestion. The reason I was hoping to stay at R8 is that (from what I read) they are a lot easier on the rotors and this is also my daily driver. I am not running an aggressive tire (yet) just 285 Firestone Firehawks. I was hoping to be able to settle for less aggressive pads that are easier on the rotors and still not cook and fade... I'd prefer not to have to replace the Steeda rotors too often. It sounds like R10 front / R8 rear may be what I could/should consider using (?)

We do happen to have the R8's front and rear in stock, normally we do not keep R8 fronts but we do have them for this brake system.

 

[K4fxd]

I've been street driving R10/R8 for about 6 years. Go that route.

How do you keep them from squealing?

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