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What did you do to your Mach 1 today

Prodigal

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what is different about it as far as driving impressions?
accelleration is much more instantaneous. i have no data to support it but it feels like there is a more "direct" connection and therefore less delay or slack in the drive train. the weight savings is undeniable. the 2 piece shaft plus the carrier bearing and hanger are absolute pigs. I consider the $1800 I spend on the QA1 CF DS the best mod Ive made for any price on my M1. I have had zero NVH what so ever with it.
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BlkMach10510

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Replacing my spoiler since it has about five fractures in it.
IMG_5040.jpg


This is the spoiler I have
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The Demon

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Someone stole my M1 car cover last night. Just ridiculous this world we live in now. For what purpose would they need that for. Just to be a dick.
 

BlkMach10510

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Someone stole my M1 car cover last night. Just ridiculous this world we live in now. For what purpose would they need that for. Just to be a dick.
To cover up their yugo. They hope it can make it transform into a Mach 1.
 

ChitownStang

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Hey guys, just want to run this by the group one last time before I finally pull the trigger on some new Conti Extreme Contact DW summer tires today.
I want to make sure there wont be any clearance issues mounting 285/35R19's on the front and 295/35R19 on the rear of my stock magnetic non-hp wheels which are 9.5" wide 40 offset front and 10" wide 52.5 offset rear?
Tire rack says widths are ok on the rim size but just want to make sure I won't rub anywhere.
If this works I'll probably get the rear fender guard but not the front if that makes sense.
Also is this worth it going wider over the stock 255/275 setup?

mach tires.png
 

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23GreenGremlin

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Installed the Steeda H-Pipe this morning. One-man job. Not nearly as difficult as I imagined. Took the exhaust off and cut on the ground then reinstalled. Jacked it up on 4 stands, removed the rear tires and the rear pan (lots of little rocks and sand hiding, watch out as it comes down). Otherwise, very straight forward. Followed the method I saw on YouTube that involved unbolting the center hangers but leaving them clipped, unbolting the factory sleeve clamps in front of the resonator, pulling everything back until the resonator dropped, then unhooking the center hangers and pushing forward to remove from the rear hangers. Once I had it on the ground and out where I could work on it, I measured the cut line about 4 times to ensure I had it right, then ran a tape line around the pipe to ensure my cut stayed straight.

Top tips if you are doing it alone: 1) The wiring for the active exhaust has both the plug and then a clip on the harness to the muffler bracket that have to be removed. Almost missed the clip. 2) The driver's side is difficult to pull forward and off of the rear hanger due to interference with the rear axle cooler sensor as you move it forward. Be careful not to damage the rear axle sensor wiring. I ended up dropping the driver's side rear bracket to get it down. 3) If you have a 4-wheel furniture dolly, place it under the factory resonator (I added a 6" box on top) to catch the exhaust when it comes down, then you can just lift and pull on the tips and everything rolls out easily without damage from being dragged on the ground. 4) Buy the better sleeve clamps. I picked up a set from CJs Pony because Steeda was out when I ordered. The clamps that come with the H-Pipe are single walled and don't look like they will hold up or seal well. They are an option when buying and should be standard. 5) Don't forget to polish the tips while you have the exhaust off of the car! 6) To ensure the tips were aligned before I tightened down the clamps, I used a couple of 2/4s to prop the outside tip upward into the right orientation, then torqued all of the nuts down to 55 ft. lbs. and they turned out great.

Very happy with the sound. Definitely a deeper tone at idle and louder when you are on the gas. Quiet mode is still quiet. Didn't get any drone at highway speeds.
 

ChitownStang

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Installed the Steeda H-Pipe this morning. One-man job. Not nearly as difficult as I imagined. Took the exhaust off and cut on the ground then reinstalled. Jacked it up on 4 stands, removed the rear tires and the rear pan (lots of little rocks and sand hiding, watch out as it comes down). Otherwise, very straight forward. Followed the method I saw on YouTube that involved unbolting the center hangers but leaving them clipped, unbolting the factory sleeve clamps in front of the resonator, pulling everything back until the resonator dropped, then unhooking the center hangers and pushing forward to remove from the rear hangers. Once I had it on the ground and out where I could work on it, I measured the cut line about 4 times to ensure I had it right, then ran a tape line around the pipe to ensure my cut stayed straight.

Top tips if you are doing it alone: 1) The wiring for the active exhaust has both the plug and then a clip on the harness to the muffler bracket that have to be removed. Almost missed the clip. 2) The driver's side is difficult to pull forward and off of the rear hanger due to interference with the rear axle cooler sensor as you move it forward. Be careful not to damage the rear axle sensor wiring. I ended up dropping the driver's side rear bracket to get it down. 3) If you have a 4-wheel furniture dolly, place it under the factory resonator (I added a 6" box on top) to catch the exhaust when it comes down, then you can just lift and pull on the tips and everything rolls out easily without damage from being dragged on the ground. 4) Buy the better sleeve clamps. I picked up a set from CJs Pony because Steeda was out when I ordered. The clamps that come with the H-Pipe are single walled and don't look like they will hold up or seal well. They are an option when buying and should be standard. 5) Don't forget to polish the tips while you have the exhaust off of the car! 6) To ensure the tips were aligned before I tightened down the clamps, I used a couple of 2/4s to prop the outside tip upward into the right orientation, then torqued all of the nuts down to 55 ft. lbs. and they turned out great.

Very happy with the sound. Definitely a deeper tone at idle and louder when you are on the gas. Quiet mode is still quiet. Didn't get any drone at highway speeds.
H-pipe sounds so good on the Mach 1, may be perfection in imo!
I did mine on ramps but didn’t remove, just supported the mufflers with a jack and 2x4
 

Prodigal

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H-pipe sounds so good on the Mach 1, may be perfection in imo!
I did mine on ramps but didn’t remove, just supported the mufflers with a jack and 2x4
Add a set of LTH and it becomes heavenly. Love the steeda H pipe, LTH, factory active exhaust set up on my M1. It provides the full spectrum from good neighbor in quiet mode to all out screamer in track mode. I typically use sport mode unless I have the wife in the car.
 

MACHtobers Very Own

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Add a set of LTH and it becomes heavenly. Love the steeda H pipe, LTH, factory active exhaust set up on my M1. It provides the full spectrum from good neighbor in quiet mode to all out screamer in track mode. I typically use sport mode unless I have the wife in the car.
sigh... I want to do headers with this exact setup except with my x pipe and I'm worried it'll just be too damn loud.
 

Traffic22

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Someone stole my M1 car cover last night. Just ridiculous this world we live in now. For what purpose would they need that for. Just to be a dick.
Absolutely ridiculous. I hate this state. Worse and worse every year.
 

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GrabberBargeCaptain

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Someone stole my M1 car cover last night. Just ridiculous this world we live in now. For what purpose would they need that for. Just to be a dick.
Someone once stole the cover to my 1985 Mercedes Turbo Diesel with 200k miles on it when I was a kid. I would cover it up because I had to park it under a tree that would release little pink flowers that would stain the paint and need clay barring all the time. It was a pretty worn car but it was MINE. Some people are just dicks.
 

Mikepol2

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Hey guys, just want to run this by the group one last time before I finally pull the trigger on some new Conti Extreme Contact DW summer tires today.
I want to make sure there wont be any clearance issues mounting 285/35R19's on the front and 295/35R19 on the rear of my stock magnetic non-hp wheels which are 9.5" wide 40 offset front and 10" wide 52.5 offset rear?
Tire rack says widths are ok on the rim size but just want to make sure I won't rub anywhere.
If this works I'll probably get the rear fender guard but not the front if that makes sense.
Also is this worth it going wider over the stock 255/275 setup?

mach tires.png
Well the front sidewall height is 102 mm for the stock tires and 100 mm for the 285/35’s. HP 305/30 sidewall is 92 mm. Hard to say for sure if your new setup would rub or not when it bottoms out but it seems reasonable.

Rear seems safer. Stock sidewall 110 mm, HP sidewall 95, 295/35 sidewall 103 mm.

Nothing screaming red flag, seems like what you came up with is worth trying.

I think it’s a good idea going with less stagger between the front and rear like you are doing, our cars tend to understeer so the more meat up front relative to the rear the better.
 

BlkMach10510

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And replaced.

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ChitownStang

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Well the front sidewall height is 102 mm for the stock tires and 100 mm for the 285/35’s. HP 305/30 sidewall is 92 mm. Hard to say for sure if your new setup would rub or not when it bottoms out but it seems reasonable.

Rear seems safer. Stock sidewall 110 mm, HP sidewall 95, 295/35 sidewall 103 mm.

Nothing screaming red flag, seems like what you came up with is worth trying.

I think it’s a good idea going with less stagger between the front and rear like you are doing, our cars tend to understeer so the more meat up front relative to the rear the better.
Thanks for the advice Mike,
I have 275/40r19's squared now and there isn't any clearance issues for the height . I was more worried about the width rubbing on the shocks or wheel well.
someone else is saying too wide for the wheels as it's not the "measured rim width" but is in the safe rim width range.
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