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Well, at the ripe age of 30, I had my first accident

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Something just seems off. Maybe say something to your agent and see if they can get some more info from the adjuster? Did you check the strut nuts and bolts under the hood? If there’s evidence that something moved enough while bolted down that it left marks on the towers, that would likely do it as far as totaling. Sorry, not trying to be a PITA, just trying to think of reasons why they’d total something that otherwise appears repairable.
They didn't even look under the hood. I was the only one who seemed to care about that, but I didn't see anything. Granted I wasn't really looking that hard, either.
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Yeah, I mean ultimately you'll be fairly compensated, it just sucks to have the car totaled out when it probably doesn't have to be lol
 

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For kicks, I threw a pretty comprehensive parts list together. Including tax and rounding up puts it at $12k. That's much more in line with what I would've expected. I cross checked it with the body shop estimate and I actually have a more thorough (and accurate) list than they do. Even excluding their labor fees (painting body panels, etc), my list is $10k under theirs. I might be completely wasting my time but... whatever.
If the parts list alone is $12 000. Then just total it and get a new one that is a lot of damage to a Mustang But I'm not sure how you get to that estimate. I though is only suspension damage if there are panels damaged especially at the rear of the car just total it.
 

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Sounds like your telling my life story! Rolled my first car at 15 on a dirt road. Ironically, I rolled my second car on the same road (paved now) about 6 years later. They say most accidents happen with in a mile of your home. In my case both of these accidents happened on the road I lived on. No pic of the first car but here was my crx when I was 21. Needless to say lots of drinking was involved.

20200628_155844.jpg
Ouch.
I guess I am the odd guy out. My two wrecks were over a 1500 miles away from home. Both getting t-boned by a red light runner, At least I had a small bit of luck and both hits were on the pass side and no one else in the vehicles.
 
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If the parts list alone is $12 000. Then just total it and get a new one that is a lot of damage to a Mustang But I'm not sure how you get to that estimate. I though is only suspension damage if there are panels damaged especially at the rear of the car just total it.
A full suspension all around isn't cheap. They also want to include the exhaust, rims, and tires. The Borla exhaust alone is $3k.
 

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I've posted this before, but the math is simple. If the payout for total minus the salvage value is less than the repair cost, then insurance will total the car. In this case, it sounds like the repair cost has been inflated, but I bet that even at a more realistic repair value, this still may end up as a total as I suspect that it will have a fairly high salvage value (the overall condition of the car is pretty good with damage more or less contained to suspension components).

Your other option is to take the payout and buy the car back from the insurance for the salvage value. If you are willing to scrounge used parts and cut a cash deal with the body shop (or maybe even do some of the work yourself), you might be able to get the job done with a few dollars left in your pocket.
 

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I've posted this before, but the math is simple. If the payout for total minus the salvage value is less than the repair cost, then insurance will total the car. In this case, it sounds like the repair cost has been inflated, but I bet that even at a more realistic repair value, this still may end up as a total as I suspect that it will have a fairly high salvage value (the overall condition of the car is pretty good with damage more or less contained to suspension components).

Your other option is to take the payout and buy the car back from the insurance for the salvage value. If you are willing to scrounge used parts and cut a cash deal with the body shop (or maybe even do some of the work yourself), you might be able to get the job done with a few dollars left in your pocket.
Yeah, you're probably right in that this is all it comes down to. Lots of good parts for salvage purposes. It's just unfortunate that the insurance company will go that route instead of fixing it, even if it's slightly more advantageous mathematically. It would be nice if the owner of the car had a little more choice in the matter when it's borderline, instead of having to buy it back and fix it after the fact.

But at the end of the day, OP is probably better walking away clean if they cut him the right sized check. It's also worth getting a dash cam these days.
 

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Yeah, you're probably right in that this is all it comes down to. Lots of good parts for salvage purposes. It's just unfortunate that the insurance company will go that route instead of fixing it, even if it's slightly more advantageous mathematically. It would be nice if the owner of the car had a little more choice in the matter when it's borderline, instead of having to buy it back and fix it after the fact.

But at the end of the day, OP is probably better walking away clean if they cut him the right sized check. It's also worth getting a dash cam these days.
An insurance company is a for profit business. Decisions are made based on bottom line financials, with no emotion attached. If the math says they come out better with a total, that's what they will do every time. It sucks, but its the way it works.

I tend to agree that the OP might be better off taking the payout. Depends on what they are willing to offer.
 
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Your other option is to take the payout and buy the car back from the insurance for the salvage value. If you are willing to scrounge used parts and cut a cash deal with the body shop (or maybe even do some of the work yourself), you might be able to get the job done with a few dollars left in your pocket.
Unfortunately state law dictates one can't buyback a totaled car unless it's 9 years old or just hail damage. So that forces my hand. I already have a parts list together and I have experience repairing worse (excluding the need to fabricate or do body work) so it's a bummer for me.
 

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Is you insurance going to pay for the Borla? I assumed they wouldn't pay out more than the OEM replacement value.
Yes, surprisingly. Only one of the bends to the passenger side muffler is dented so realistically that's all that would need to be replaced. I'm sure a call to borla could achieve that. But both the appraiser and body shop said it would be a new one. That alone inflates the price quite a bit.
 

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Unfortunately state law dictates one can't buyback a totaled car unless it's 9 years old or just hail damage. So that forces my hand. I already have a parts list together and I have experience repairing worse (excluding the need to fabricate or do body work) so it's a bummer for me.
That does suck. What's the point of that law?
 
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That does suck. What's the point of that law?
Their way of trying to reduce theft and chop shop work, from what I read. I'd have a better chance tacking on a labor fee and convincing my insurance to let me do the repairs lol.
 

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A full suspension all around isn't cheap. They also want to include the exhaust, rims, and tires. The Borla exhaust alone is $3k.
Full suspension is not that expensive ether. I said that I have a similar hit and 2 rims are like 800$ or so sure tires are another 800$ or so but if you only have cosmetic damage on exhaust etc why change. Regarding other things if there is structural damage better get the check and buy a new one.
 
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Full suspension is not that expensive ether. I said that I have a similar hit and 2 rims are like 800$ or so sure tires are another 800$ or so but if you only have cosmetic damage on exhaust etc why change. Regarding other things if there is structural damage better get the check and buy a new one.
It's a little over $6k for springs, struts, shocks, control arms, rims/tires, and all associated hardware. Ball joints, knuckles, tie rod ends, half shafts, hubs, etc. Like I said the exhaust wasn't my call. I argued it wasn't necessary. The body damage is limited to the bumper rockers and rocker panel molding. A screw for the front bumper splitter pierced right through but I'm almost positive that happened after the fact because that wasn't there when I first looked it over.

I'll just link my list. I have the borla exhaust and the subframe/cradle in a separate tab because both are just cosmetic damage.

I'm not arguing the check wouldn't be a bad move. But I don't want someone's used car or a new s550 because of all the cost cutting and inflated pricing of the current MY. I'd want to wait for the s650 but then I'll need to buy a vehicle in the meantime. I'm not exactly thrilled thinking about that.
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