Warm start issues, help.

[Dr donuhole]

Currently have a 17 gt twin turbo, having a issue with getting the car started only when warm. The car starts good from cold start. If the car is warm when I go to start the car the car will start and immediately die, if I start the car and give it a rev up to about 1500 for about 2 seconds the car will stay running and idle fine. Any ideas on what I could try, or could it be the tune, car does it with all 3 tunes, e85, e50, and 93. Previous owner did warn me ahead of time that he had to do this on warm starts.

Any advise is appreciated.

Sponsored

 

[Proshop]

What injectors and pumps are you running?

 

[Dr donuhole]

What injectors and pumps are you running?

I believe they are FIC 1000 and a fore duel pump return system

 

[Proshop]

I believe they are FIC 1000 and a fore duel pump return system

FIC’s have been known to have issues with hot starts unfortunately so might be time to upgrade to ID 1050’s or ID 1300’s depending on your goals.

 

[LOL WUT]

FIC’s have been known to have issues with hot starts unfortunately so might be time to upgrade to ID 1050’s or ID 1300’s depending on your goals.

^This. Some tuners have been successful with adding a touch more fuel at idle to circumvent the warm start issue. I’ve luckily only seen my car stumble at start up 1 time but I chalked it up to racecar things.

If it’s any consolation, I do believe it’s just a warm start issue and with FIC1000s and they seem to perform just fine otherwise.

 

[Proshop]

^This. Some tuners have been successful with adding a touch more fuel at idle to circumvent the warm start issue. I’ve luckily only seen my car stumble at start up 1 time but I chalked it up to racecar things.

If it’s any consolation, I do believe it’s just a warm start issue and with FIC1000s and they seem to perform just fine otherwise.

My favorite saying #racecarproblems

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m dealing with that exact problem right now (only mine starts and dies twice and then on the third start it runs rough until I feed it light throttle and it finally clears up and runs smoothly after about 10-15 seconds) and I’m still on the factory fuel system running a DW400 pump and JMS BAP. I’ve researched it a little and it seems that I may be experiencing what is referred to as vapor lock, where the fuel boils off and turns from liquid to gas in the rails, which has to be overcome or pushed out through the rails and injectors before the car will start.

My DW400 pump is the old version without the check valve in it. During my research I found that some people say installing a check valve either in the pump or in the fuel line remedies the problem.

 

[Dr donuhole]

The plan is to get some more stuff don't to it over the winter so ID 1300s will probably make the list.

However the exhaust tips were a little off center so I got under the car today after posting this, got everything loose and straightened them. Started it to make sure there were no leaks and I could hear the slightest leak from the v-band from the turbo and sure enough there was a damp spot about the size of a dime. Got that situated, and did a KAM reset and started the car (warm) and without giving it any gas it started right up immediately and idled smooth, so I have started it about 5 times since and haven't had to give it any gas. Any chances that was actually the cause of this? Power still felt the same but boost did come on just slightly earlier.

 

[NGOT8R]

The plan is to get some more stuff don't to it over the winter so ID 1300s will probably make the list.

However the exhaust tips were a little off center so I got under the car today after posting this, got everything loose and straightened them. Started it to make sure there were no leaks and I could hear the slightest leak from the v-band from the turbo and sure enough there was a damp spot about the size of a dime. Got that situated, and did a KAM reset and started the car (warm) and without giving it any gas it started right up immediately and idled smooth, so I have started it about 5 times since and haven't had to give it any gas. Any chances that was actually the cause of this? Power still felt the same but boost did come on just slightly earlier.

How warm was your engine? I think it happens when the heat is trapped under the hood. If you happened to have your hood up, that may explain why it fired right up. This problem just surfaced for me last week and has been reading it’s ugly head ever since.

 

[Cory S]

Fuel could be getting heated up. It boils in the rails when this happens creating air pockets.

 

[Dr donuhole]

How warm was your engine? I think it happens when the heat is trapped under the hood. If you happened to have your hood up, that may explain why it fired right up. This problem just surfaced for me last week and has been reading it’s ugly head ever since.

Car was all the way warmed up. ECT was around 170. Before if the car sat for even 2 hours the car would die as soon as it started. And it would do it every time I started the car no matter how many times I tried.

 

[Dr donuhole]

So, just to update this. Car went back to not wanting to startup without throttle. However if I do a KAM reset it starts up without for about the next 3 warm starts. Is there something mechanical I should check on other than injectors with this issue?

 

[Dr donuhole]

Just to update this post, it was indeed not the injectors, was 100% the tune. Car is being returned by shoemaker and his very first tune he sent me, car has ZERO issues starting up. Idle and low rpm driving is a huge difference in how the car runs.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Feels good to find the solution without throwing cash and parts at it.

Sponsored