Voltage Reading

[Morphy]

Does everyone know what the normal voltage reading should be on the GT350? Mine is a 2017 model with the original OEM battery still in the car. I keep it constantly on a battery tender. Mine reads 14 volts at startup and at idle. Any suggestions on a good replacement battery when the time does come. OEM vs aftermarket?

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[Postal Bob]

I think it's hard to say what is "normal" voltage. I just replaced my battery. And every time I'm not driving it, it's on a tender, At startup, it's reading 14. Then, as I continue to drive, and the battery is charging, it'll drop to about 12.5v. But if I'm driving at highway speed, but am only keeping it in no more than 4th gear(6k-7k rpm range), I see the voltage go back up to 14V.
So obviously, the more than engine is working, the higher the voltage reading. Remember, everything on this car is using voltage(EFI, magnetic shocks, steering, exhaust valves, etc.).
So the voltage reading is going to change with how you drive. But overall, the voltage starts high at startup, then starts coming down as you drive.

 

[95CobraR]

My car screen is higher than my volt meter test.

My 2019 battery is at 98% of full load. The rest of the car is still 100% at full throttle load.

It's the best bang for the buck @ 8200 RPM that I've ever had.

 

[Morphy]

I think it's hard to say what is "normal" voltage. I just replaced my battery. And every time I'm not driving it, it's on a tender, At startup, it's reading 14. Then, as I continue to drive, and the battery is charging, it'll drop to about 12.5v. But if I'm driving at highway speed, but am only keeping it in no more than 4th gear(6k-7k rpm range), I see the voltage go back up to 14V.
So obviously, the more than engine is working, the higher the voltage reading. Remember, everything on this car is using voltage(EFI, magnetic shocks, steering, exhaust valves, etc.).
So the voltage reading is going to change with how you drive. But overall, the voltage starts high at startup, then starts coming down as you drive.

I think it's hard to say what is "normal" voltage. I just replaced my battery. And every time I'm not driving it, it's on a tender, At startup, it's reading 14. Then, as I continue to drive, and the battery is charging, it'll drop to about 12.5v. But if I'm driving at highway speed, but am only keeping it in no more than 4th gear(6k-7k rpm range), I see the voltage go back up to 14V.
So obviously, the more than engine is working, the higher the voltage reading. Remember, everything on this car is using voltage(EFI, magnetic shocks, steering, exhaust valves, etc.).
So the voltage reading is going to change with how you drive. But overall, the voltage starts high at startup, then starts coming down as you drive.

Thanks, Postal Bob for your input. May I ask what was your replacement battery, OEM,

My car screen is higher than my volt meter test.

My 2019 battery is at 98% of full load. The rest of the car is still 100% at full throttle load.

It's the best bang for the buck @ 8200 RPM that I've ever had.

or aftermarket?

 

[Postal Bob]

Thanks, Postal Bob for your input. May I ask what was your replacement battery, OEM,


or aftermarket?

I stood with OEM, which is now rated at 470 CCA vs the originals at 390 CCA. I figured why do I need a battery with higher CCA's? It's not a daily driver. I don't drive in Winter or cold weather, so why have more CCA's, with greater starting power?

 

[Morphy]

Postal Bob, thanks for the feedback. I am planning on going with OEM also. Not sure when to get a new one. Mine is acting fine right now, but after 6 years on it now, time is against it. Even though it stays on a tender continuously, I don't want it to quit while out on the road. Good to know the OEM's have upgraded their power out put.

 

[galaxy]

I'm not so sure time is against you. If you keep it on a tender pretty constantly any time she's parked, I think you're in for a surprise. I certainly don't think just because it's an arbitrary six years old that it's gonna leave you stranded one day out of the blue. There will be signs.

My batter in my truck is at least 15 years old. I do the same thing to it and the 350. If it's two days or two months, I don't really care; they go on the tender.

But when the time comes for me, I am going AntiGravity.

 

[Morphy]

Thanks, Galaxy for your input. I hope you are right about the constant use of the battery tender. I am old school, what is Anti Gravity? Specs; is it more power, dry cell, lighter, etc?

 

[galaxy]

Lithium. Super small. Around five lbs I think, give or take. Super sexy. Super strong. Super expensive. Forgot the specs, but beats stock. But then, what doesn’t?!?!

 

[Postal Bob]

Postal Bob, thanks for the feedback. I am planning on going with OEM also. Not sure when to get a new one. Mine is acting fine right now, but after 6 years on it now, time is against it. Even though it stays on a tender continuously, I don't want it to quit while out on the road. Good to know the OEM's have upgraded their power out put.

Mine gave no warning, other than the day it died, it was a little slow cranking while I was running errands. Come home after driving 30 minutes on highway, put it on tender, and a little later attempted to start. No go.
If you have one of those portable jump starters, it's good to carry. These batteries just go sometimes, like a massive hear attack.

 

[Weather756]

I have a scan gauge so I monitor voltage all the time. When I start the car it is at about 12.0 volts. After starting goes to 14.6 to 14.8. It stays there for driving around town below 3,000 rpm mostly. On the highway 2,000 rpm 6th gear still about 14.5 volts. Have the 390CCA Battery. Battery 1 year old. I charge it occasional just to top it off.

 

[Morphy]

Mine gave no warning, other than the day it died, it was a little slow cranking while I was running errands. Come home after driving 30 minutes on highway, put it on tender, and a little later attempted to start. No go.
If you have one of those portable jump starters, it's good to carry. These batteries just go sometimes, like a massive hear attack.

That's what I'm afraid of happening while I'm out on the road! The voltage gauge is supposed to give a prior indication of pending doom. I guess with the age of the OEM battery I should put the new one in the car now while it's sitting in the garage and avoid stranding the car on the road. Thanks again for the input.

 

[Morphy]

I have a scan gauge so I monitor voltage all the time. When I start the car it is at about 12.0 volts. After starting goes to 14.6 to 14.8. It stays there for driving around town below 3,000 rpm mostly. On the highway 2,000 rpm 6th gear still about 14.5 volts. Have the 390CCA Battery. Battery 1 year old. I charge it occasional just to top it off.

I have a scan gauge so I monitor voltage all the time. When I start the car it is at about 12.0 volts. After starting goes to 14.6 to 14.8. It stays there for driving around town below 3,000 rpm mostly. On the highway 2,000 rpm 6th gear still about 14.5 volts. Have the 390CCA Battery. Battery 1 year old. I charge it occasional just to top it off.

I have a scan gauge so I monitor voltage all the time. When I start the car it is at about 12.0 volts. After starting goes to 14.6 to 14.8. It stays there for driving around town below 3,000 rpm mostly. On the highway 2,000 rpm 6th gear still about 14.5 volts. Have the 390CCA Battery. Battery 1 year old. I charge it occasional just to top it off.

Hey Weather 756, glad to hear from another NC owner. Thanks for the input. When I start mine it's always around 14.3, mine is always on the tender while in the garage so I guess it never gets a chance to lose voltage because of computer drain, etc. I understood that the newer model cars had upgraded batteries in them. I guess should confirm from the FORD parts dept. that I purchase the newest dated OEM battery available, not the older version or one that's sitting on their shelves for a while.

 

[Postal Bob]

That's what I'm afraid of happening while I'm out on the road! The voltage gauge is supposed to give a prior indication of pending doom. I guess with the age of the OEM battery I should put the new one in the car now while it's sitting in the garage and avoid stranding the car on the road. Thanks again for the input.

Just get one of those small, portable jump starters like the Nokia models.

I understood that the newer model cars had upgraded batteries in them. I guess should confirm from the FORD parts dept. that I purchase the newest dated OEM battery available, not the older version or one that's sitting on their shelves for a while.

The older version has been replaced by the newer version(470CCA) as the proper battery for the car. I don't even think they have the 390 CCA battery anymore.

 

[95CobraR]

or aftermarket?

My car is still in factory warranty so no aftermarket yet.

I say speed is in fast lap times at Road Atlanta. I'd like to get some of the "push" (understeer) out of the car first. The car has power but really needs better handling.

I just got the car out of the body shop after $5000 of body shop work due to a tree limb damaging the hood, roof, and trunk lid. I am not worried about some track damage at this point (which is never covered with standard insurance).

I am still back-ordered on replacements for the stock tires (Cup 2). I think the original tires still show good grip when warmed up to temps.

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