Marvinmadman
Well-Known Member
I can't imagine Ford would leave that tech out of the 3.5 EB. That's something I can't fathom.
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Dude, it's like you're not even trying...You keep saying EVERYONE knows this is a problem, yet I can find NOTHING online about carbon deposits affecting driveability problems for the EB Mustang. I understand this has been a problem for other manufacturers (I've mentioned that several times), but Ford holds a patent on technology meant to mitigate the problem. Once again, where is your evidence that carbon deposits cause driveability issues for the EB Mustang?
This simply isn't true. Ford has employed a method of injecting a small amount of fuel during valve overlap to get raw fuel on the back side of the intake manifold for YEARS. The fact that Ford engines don't have the same problems as other manufacturers was discussed in this article from 2011.
https://www.edmunds.com/autoobserver-archive/2011/06/direct-injection-fouls-some-early-adopters.html
I HAVE acknowledged this, many times. What you haven't acknowledged is that carbon deposits cause driveability issues for some cars, but not others. The article I posted specifically addresses that fact.Dude, it's like you're not even trying...GTDI/GDI engines - ALL gasoline versions of this technology, regardless of manufacture (as of this moment) have this issue.
A catch can will cause the oil in the vapors to emulsify into to liquid and be captured in the can, that is what they are designed to do. How well the can is designed will determine how effective it is at doing that.[*]Given that it is crankcase vapors rather than oil droplets which results in the carbon deposits, and that a catch can--like the factory air/oil separator--does not prevent crankcase vapors from circulating back into the intake system, how does a catch can prevent carbon deposits on intake valves?
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The factory air/oil separator does the same thing, right? I realize that catch can manufacturers claim their systems work better than the factory system, but claims of superiority (and sometimes scare tactics) are the basis of marketing materials for a great many aftermarket products.A catch can will cause the oil in the vapors to emulsify into to liquid and be captured in the can, that is what they are designed to do. How well the can is designed will determine how effective it is at doing that.
So those claiming there is no downside to installing a catch can are not correct.The manufactuers don't install catch cans because they require maintenance that if not performed can result in solid oil being sucked into the engine with potential catastrophic damage.
Correct. And part of that determination is understanding the pros and cons based on facts, not conjecture and supposition. As far as I know, there are still no owner complaints of driveability issues related to carbon deposits on the 2.3L EB motor. In addition, we have no comparison of cars with and without to determine if a catch can actually does anything to prevent carbon deposits for the 2.3L EB. Given the lack of owner complaints, is it possible that Ford's carbon deposit mitigation strategies are working?Whether you feel it is worth the cost and hassle of emptying it is your decision.
The primary source of carbon in the crankcase vapor is from combustion by-products: CARBON monoxide, CARBON dioxide, etc. Engine manufacturers work from the premise that carbon deposits on intake valves occur primarily during engine operation when the intake valve protrudes into the combustion chamber where it's exposed to combustion by-products that then stick to the neck and back side of the valve. (You seem to be good with Google, so I'll let you do your own research on that. You might start with those links you included in your last post). Part of Ford's strategy to mitigate intake valve fouling is changes in timing to limit intake valve exposure to combustion by-products.Carbon is mostly oil vapors coming in contact with hot metal surfaces ...
So in other words your claim that a catch can is necessary to prevent carbon deposits on intake valves for the 2.3L EB motor is based not on any data that there is an actual problem with carbon deposits for the 2.3L EB motor, but on a prediction.Our EBM platform is too new - we have maybe 36-40k on the clock and these issues don't surface for 40-80k. Start early, it will happen.
I predict - almost as if it was to coincide with the release of the 2018s - that we will see "Why does my EBM idle like $#!+?" posts are coming in the next year.
I also predict that Ford will release an EcoBoost "refresh" for 2019 or 2020 with increased static compression, revised PCV, and a supplimentary port injection fuel system...
I have acknowledged this time and again, but I have yet to see any data this phenomenon is problematic for the 2.3L EB motor.Don't discount the contribution of oil vapor from the PCV system causing carbon build up on the intake valves. I have been building, rebuilding and repairing engines for 40 years, if you had ever taken apart and engine with bad valve guide seals you would be shocked at the carbon build on the valves from oil being drawn into the intake. It can almost completely block flow into the cylinders.
Read any technical article on GDI engines and they will all recomend an oil with a low NOACK value to minimize the amount of oil evaporating in the crank case and being sucked into the engine through the PCV system.
The only way to prove this claim is to first define "helps," then to compare carbon deposits on engines with and without a catch can. Can you share a link to such data? If a catch can doesn't actually do what you claim then it isn't "cheap," especially compared to doing nothing. I've seen catch cans advertised for as much as $500. How much does a valve cleaning cost?A catch can may not stop carbon build up on the valves but it certainly helps and is cheap enough that it is a no brainer in my book.
No, My predictions are predictions.So in other words your claim that a catch can is necessary to prevent carbon deposits on intake valves for the 2.3L EB motor is based not on any data that there is an actual problem with carbon deposits for the 2.3L EB motor, but on a prediction.
"[P]henomenon": that is an exemplary choice of wording; "a fact or situation that is observed to exist or happen, especially one whose cause or explanation is in question." - so it looks like you are FINALLY coming to the "dark side" now that you've admitted this issue exists! Admitting there is a problem is the first step to getting help! :clap2:I have acknowledged this time and again, but I have yet to see any data this phenomenon is problematic for the 2.3L EB motor.
is a "search term failure" - Yes, the primary source of "CARBON in the crankcase vapor is from combustion by-products", but we are discussing "CARBON BUILD UP", it's different.The primary source of carbon in the crankcase vapor is from combustion by-products: CARBON monoxide, CARBON dioxide, etc.
You gotta read that small print carefully. What Amsoil claims is that its product "achieved 100 percent protection against LSPI in the engine test required by the GM dexos1 ® Gen 2 specification." Any oil that meets GM dexos 1 Gen 2 specification (there are many--see below) will perform the same on tests required by the specification--that's how they achieve qualification for the specification. You can find a list of oils meeting the spec here:Yesterday I finally drained the factory fill oil for some new Amsoil 5/30w sig series. It claims to eliminate lspi 100%.
Blackstone Labs said:Well, we’re no closer to saying that one type of oil is better than another, that’s for sure. We see much more variation in wear levels from the type of engine, the time on the oil, the viscosity, the use the engine sees, etc. Whatever differences exist from oil brand to oil brand, we don’t see a lot of difference in terms of wear for most types of engines.
Now, some people report better fuel economy or other benefits from using one type of oil instead of another, and if that’s you, that’s great. Our point here is not to tell you that you should or shouldn’t use a certain type of oil, so by all means, feel free to stick with what’s working for you. All we’re saying is, if you want to try an oil that maybe costs a little less, you probably don’t need to worry about it causing any problems. Send us a sample of what you’re using, and then try a similar oil run with the new stuff – by comparing those results, you might find that you can get the same great results, and save a little money as well! Good luck!
And change your oil according to manufacturer guidelines. I would bet that these will do more for avoiding engine problems than a catch can.Use quality oil, fuel, and don't lug or accelerate a heat soaked engine.
This I understand.If it sits off for awhile I try to let it idle for a bit and drive it easy.
This I don't. Care to explain? Is it because of this?I like to leave my engine running when going in and out most places.
The heat generated from the pressure and fire of combustion is far hotter than the heat coming from the turbo, and as soon as you remove the source of heat the temps will go down. Ford (and most manufacturers) specifically calls out extended idling as "severe duty" requiring more frequent oil changes.I think that exhaust integrated manifolds cause serious hot spots within the head when the engine is off.
Also from the same article:Article dated 2012:
But not all makes suffer equally from this problem. It seems the European makes have struggled more with this issue than the domestic manufacturers.