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Tune with No Lift Shift (NLS)

newkidnik

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Hey all, anyone aware of a tune that comes with the NLS feature besides the FRPP tunes?

I tried searching and can't seem to find one that advertises this. I have PP1, and it's ok, but only made about 6whp more, peak to peak. If I go aftermarket tune, I'd prefer to keep NLS, but this doesn't seem to be a feature for any other tuner. Am I wrong (hopefully)?
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ChitownStang

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You only got 6hp on pp1?? We have same setup, I thought it felt much better all-around when I did the tune. Plus LMr got 15hp..
Maybe in another year and half when warranty up I'll do Lund
 
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newkidnik

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You only got 6hp on pp1?? We have same setup, I thought it felt much better all-around when I did the tune. Plus LMr got 15hp..
Maybe in another year and half when warranty up I'll do Lund
Yup, it was disappointing. Cat protection was certainly dumping fuel on the PP1 runs, but I was still let down.

4th gear:
2rf3o8p.jpg


5th gear:
xbn0xc.jpg
 

ChitownStang

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I do not understand what this cat protection is, you mind explaining?
So what were your rwhp #'s?
 

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armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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I'm curious about this too. I still no lift my 3-4 shift though.
 
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newkidnik

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I do not understand what this cat protection is, you mind explaining?
So what were your rwhp #'s?
The ECU dumps fuel to cool the cats and stop them from overheating.

In 4th gear, peak was 386 stock and 392 tuned.

This was a Mustang dyno, but the numbers read quite high. In 5th, it gained like 3whp.

For comparison, a stock 6th gen. Camaro SS dynoed 396 or 398 at this shop.
 

Gibbo205

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JDM tunes have no lift shift feature, they were offering this before Ford and it works well. :)

[MENTION=10508]JimIII@JDM[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10666]Nick@JDM[/MENTION] can hook you up.
 

ChitownStang

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newkidnik, did you drive on the new tune for a while or just program and dyno? I have heard the tune needs to be driven like 50 miles before it fully works.
 
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newkidnik

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JDM tunes have no lift shift feature, they were offering this before Ford and it works well. :)

@JimIII@JDM and @Nick@JDM can hook you up.
Oooo, that's right! I forgot about JDM. You've have JDM and Lund, right? Any insight you can offer on comparisons between them? I used AED and Revauto on my last 5.0 and was just going to go back to AED. Shaun isn't really active on this forum, but he's on SVTPerformance, and has worked his magic on his A6 S550 shop car. I think with headers and bolt-ons he ran 11.0@123. There's another thread under his username that I can't post it b/c this website doesn't allow links from other forums? :crazy:

newkidnik, did you drive on the new tune for a while or just program and dyno? I have heard the tune needs to be driven like 50 miles before it fully works.
The runs were done on two separate days a week apart, and I think I put on about 250 miles, so it should've adapted! The PP1 follow-up dyno was on a slightly warmer day, and the car did a few test pulls on the dyno, so cat protection kicked in quicker.
 

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Gibbo205

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Oooo, that's right! I forgot about JDM. You've have JDM and Lund, right? Any insight you can offer on comparisons between them? I used AED and Revauto on my last 5.0 and was just going to go back to AED. Shaun isn't really active on this forum, but he's on SVTPerformance, and has worked his magic on his A6 S550 shop car. I think with headers and bolt-ons he ran 11.0@123. There's another thread under his username that I can't post it b/c this website doesn't allow links from other forums? :crazy:


The runs were done on two separate days a week apart, and I think I put on about 250 miles, so it should've adapted! The PP1 follow-up dyno was on a slightly warmer day, and the car did a few test pulls on the dyno, so cat protection kicked in quicker.

JDM tune I used on stock air box and PMAS "no tune" CAI. On stock air box their tune drove silky smooth and it made good power, the cost was $385 and changing to the 350 manifold was another $385 for a tune revision unless I purchased via them which was not possible due to high shipping cost to UK, so I had to buy elsewhere which saved me over $600. On the PMAS CAI the tune was jumpy and as JDM had not tested one in house there was nothing they could do with adjusting the tune as from logs it looked fine.

As such I switched to Lund, $200 and they got the PMAS driving smooth and the power it made once dialled in was fantastic, 472BHP crank, so they extracted more power too, but between the two tunes max power had hardly anything between them, 5HP and that could just be dyno variation.

When I got the 350 manifold, Lund just wanted $50 to tune for it, they could not get the 350 TB dialled in to my liking drive ability wise, particular when cold and as its a daily it needs to drive nice all the time not just when warm. So I threw on stock TB, it is now driving great but I am yet to a dyno to compared stock TB to 350 TB.

From a service perspective and value for money Lund are superb as you pay $200 and tune updates are free for next 6 months. If you make a major change like manifold they want $50 and again tune updates are free and changes such as air intake, exhaust, exhaust manifolds, injectors etc. are all free of charge.

But Lund to my knowledge do not offer no lift shifting, I think its a Ford/SCT secret and JDM I know work close with SCT/Ford so clearly they know how to do that and it worked well in my car though it is so hard doing it as your brain naturally wants to lift but I did it on 3-4 shifts a few times and it seems to work great, very smooth and no issues.

For me JDM have a great tune as long as you go with parts they have tested, they are pretty unwilling to tune for parts they have not tested in house which is fair enough, value for money they lose out though.

Lund for me seem to have patience of saints and seem to be willing to work with customers and even if that means 20 revisions of a tune to get it right they will spend the time to get you there and all for the $200 you paid, so value for money wise is great. What impresses me most is turn around time, normally when I send in a log I've had a revised tune within an hour. For me the response and time to do revisions Lund are in a league of their own, but they do have several tuners in house and you get to chat with the guy writing your tune directly which for me is a major plus, nothing worse than speaking to a middle man.

If your going 350 Mani/TB I'd give the JDM tune a try, I am confident their tune will be better but is it perfect no idea as feedback seems mixed, but Lund for sure have some drive ability work to do on their tune which is for sure down to the 350 throttle body and getting those throttle tables, driver demand torque etc. spot on including cold start.

JDM or Lund I'd say your in good hands, but you cannot argue with the price Lund charge, it seems almost too cheap but it is also why they seem so popular on the forum.
 

robertwsimpson

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Maybe I'm dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "no lift shift?"

I've never had a tune "for" this, but I've done it in every vehicle that I own.

My SCT tuner has a neutral rev limiter that can be set to anything, which I am guessing is what you're talking about? I can set a limit in gear and a different limit when in neutral or while clutch is depressed. I have that turned off because I've never felt the need for it. I guess you can also use this as launch control. Maybe that's not what you're talking about.
 

Gibbo205

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Maybe I'm dumb, but what exactly do you mean by "no lift shift?"

I've never had a tune "for" this, but I've done it in every vehicle that I own.

My SCT tuner has a neutral rev limiter that can be set to anything, which I am guessing is what you're talking about? I can set a limit in gear and a different limit when in neutral or while clutch is depressed. I have that turned off because I've never felt the need for it. I guess you can also use this as launch control. Maybe that's not what you're talking about.
On the JDM tune I ran, "no lift shift" meant keep the accelerator fully pressed whilst clutching in/out to the next gear. So no need to get off the gas and back on, just clutch in, select gear and clutch out, the ECU does the rest to make it smooth and drive train safe. It worked fine but I only ever did it 3-4 shift and at 7000rpm, JDM advised to never do it below 6000rpm as it could burn the clutch.

The Ford no lift shift might be different as I think you can do it even at low RPM, but why you would do it at low RPM makes no sense, the whole idea of no lift shift is for going faster down quarter mile, so flat out. :D
 

robertwsimpson

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That's what I thought it was.


So, why do you need a tune for this? As mentioned, I do it all the time.

1-2 shift, I lift to about 50% throttle probably, to try and prevent wheel spin
2-3 shift, probably 50% again, but just because this shift takes slightly longer than the "pulling" shifts
3-4 shift, no lift
4-5 shift, no lift, but I haven't done that in this car yet, since that is going WAY faster than I've had need to thus far.

I've never had an issue in any vehicle I've driven.


Also, can you tell me specifically what the tune is changing during the shift?
 

Gibbo205

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That's what I thought it was.


So, why do you need a tune for this? As mentioned, I do it all the time.

1-2 shift, I lift to about 50% throttle probably, to try and prevent wheel spin
2-3 shift, probably 50% again, but just because this shift takes slightly longer than the "pulling" shifts
3-4 shift, no lift
4-5 shift, no lift, but I haven't done that in this car yet, since that is going WAY faster than I've had need to thus far.

I've never had an issue in any vehicle I've driven.


Also, can you tell me specifically what the tune is changing during the shift?

I'd not want to do what your doing, something could get damaged, particular if the driver gets it wrong, am sure you are fine but no lift shift is for the masses and having it means you can't get it wrong.

No idea what the ECU is doing, you would need someone else to explain that, probably best JDM comment and they may not wish to divulge how they do it as I believe only Ford and JDM offer "no lift shift" strategy in their tunes. :)

All I will say is when I did it, the car does not rev/bounce of the limiter when you clutch in, but the revs did not seem to fall either and when I clutched out it continued accelerating with no apparent delay and it was super smooth, just a minor chirp from tyres.
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