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Trickle charger eyelit connection

wenklaw

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I currently connect my trickle charger to the GT as it can be sat in the garage for a while without moving, I use the clamps which means it's a bit time consuming.

Anyway I also have the eyelit connections and cable, I've seen some good options of how to position and am about to actually connect it up, I take it I can just use a ratchet and undo the positive connection point for the eyelit and connect and then undo the negative side and connect, leaving the battery main connections connected? Is there anything I need to be wary off?
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I attached mine like this :

7522911-E-72-CC-4-CAF-89-CF-C7-DE5-BE75963.webp


But there are lots of topics on this that have been running recently, some (IMHO) massively over complicating the issue relating to the interface with the BMS.

If you choose to connect like I have done, just be wary that the nuts become tight at the top of the thread and the stud needs to be held in its upmost position to enable it to grip whilst the nut is fully removed. Your connections can be added in that position without interrupting the batteries connection to the car (if you are careful) :like:

WD :like:
 

Gregs24

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I attached mine like this :

7522911-E-72-CC-4-CAF-89-CF-C7-DE5-BE75963.jpg


But there are lots of topics on this that have been running recently, some (IMHO) massively over complicating the issue relating to the interface with the BMS.

If you choose to connect like I have done, just be wary that the nuts become tight at the top of the thread and the stud needs to be held in its upmost position to enable it to grip whilst the nut is fully removed. Your connections can be added in that position without interrupting the batteries connection to the car (if you are careful) :like:

WD :like:
I did exactly the same as this and run the weatherproof connector (Accumate in my case) out to the scuttle near the wipers. I also used the smaller studs - no need to disconnect the battery. Don't worry about BMS, I have had it from Ford that as long as the car is off when the charger is connected there will be no problems.
 

WD Pro

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Yeah I really don't understand all the concerns about the BMS. The BMS relearns the battery state if the car is left locked for 8 hours anyway.

Lets be honest, who's going to go to the hassle of plugging the car in and leaving it on a maintenance charger for any less than 8 hours ?

WD :like:
 

Rapid Red

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I attached mine like this :

7522911-E-72-CC-4-CAF-89-CF-C7-DE5-BE75963.webp


But there are lots of topics on this that have been running recently, some (IMHO) massively over complicating the issue relating to the interface with the BMS.

If you choose to connect like I have done, just be wary that the nuts become tight at the top of the thread and the stud needs to be held in its upmost position to enable it to grip whilst the nut is fully removed. Your connections can be added in that position without interrupting the batteries connection to the car (if you are careful) :like:

WD :like:
Too late for this but will mention it for grins. The stud is long enough. You could have bought the nut and sandwich the ring terminal.

Never disturbing the connection, even simpler :computerrage:

The BMS, have a service manual. Even better then some dealer Ford guy who may or may not have read the thing.

Does say to body mount the neg. This is a new concept with the BMS module .

It may do nothing more than monitor the state of the battery, as the oil life function does?

Some writings indicate BMS also controls the charge rate for the alternator and battery.

So it's a crap shoot for the owner, spin the wheel: takes your chances.
 
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MNstang

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I attached mine like this :

7522911-E-72-CC-4-CAF-89-CF-C7-DE5-BE75963.webp


But there are lots of topics on this that have been running recently, some (IMHO) massively over complicating the issue relating to the interface with the BMS.

If you choose to connect like I have done, just be wary that the nuts become tight at the top of the thread and the stud needs to be held in its upmost position to enable it to grip whilst the nut is fully removed. Your connections can be added in that position without interrupting the batteries connection to the car (if you are careful) :like:

WD :like:
Can I ask which charger you are running and where your lead is coming to the exterior of the car? Thanks!
 

WD Pro

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Too late for this but will mention it for grins. The stud is long enough. You could have bought the nut and sandwich the ring terminal.

Never disturbing the connection, even simpler :computerrage:
I think we will have to gracefully disagree on that one :like:

If I was adding a nut on top, I would want a nyloc and ideally one with a flange - that's approximately 7 mm of thread that's needed (absolute minimum). Admittedly I haven't measured what's spare, but looking at that photo I don't think there is enough :like:

WD :like:

Edited to shorted the quote to the part I was directly referring too :like:
 
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WD Pro

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Can I ask which charger you are running and where your lead is coming to the exterior of the car? Thanks!
Yeah for sure :like:

It's a CTEK MXS 7.0. Bear in mind I am RHD so the battery is on the opposite side to you, I found that it's quite easy (once you know where to aim and have done it a few times) to drop the CTEK extension cable down the side of the inner fender next to the motor :

8953059-D-A0-B2-4031-8-BB3-44-ABF15-EF8-EA.jpg


The CTEK then sits under the car in a CTEK rubber bumper, it's far enough under to be completely protected from the elements (but they have a high IP rating anyway). I shortened the CTEK cables to suit and I plug it in using a waterproof extension, which I managed to find in a nice matching colour ... lol

8769-CBB9-1128-4946-BFB3-FFBDA4-B82538.webp


Just don't drive off and forget about the CTEK extension lead ... :facepalm: Hopefully this will stop me doing that trick again ...

754165-EF-712-D-4037-B810-5213074-B0667.webp


Hope that helps ?

WD :like:
 

Gregs24

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I think we will have to gracefully disagree on that one :like:

If I was adding a nut on top, I would want a nyloc and ideally one with a flange - that's approximately 7 mm of thread that's needed (absolute minimum). Admittedly I haven't measured what's spare, but looking at that photo I don't think there is enough :like:

WD :like:

Edited to shorted the quote to the part I was directly referring too :like:
I did just add a nut to the top of each stub and tightened - very little chance of it coming undone. Stayed on for 2 years so far.
 

WD Pro

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I returned for the entertainment value, but I see some housekeeping has taken place and peacefulness has been restored ... :like:

WD :like:
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