This part is really frustrating, as my Elantra N, which costs half the price of M1, has all the proper ducting around the intercooler and radiator, and requires zero cooling modifications to take track day beating.
Looking forward to it, your contributions to this thread are real gold.
Managing heat from 275 HP and managing heat from 500 HP are not the same magnitude tasks.
Agreed, but Hyundai still has proper shroud around the radiators, there is a foam insert on bumper that completely covers crash bar gap
I was on track last Friday at 64F ambient temps. Doing 15 minutes sessions or so. I seen temps up to 239F but my oil temps were never into yellow and my oil is showing some signs of overheating but it's still nice looking and not burning so that's good. I'm starting to get very concerned with this CHT temps though as now this is the limiting factor of the cars performance. I wonder if something like this mishimoto cooling kit could help:
That looks like a nice kit. However as mentioned in the older posts, I would suggest that you work on sealing as your next step vs. replacing parts. If you go back and spot your data point on the cooling curve I posted, you will see that you are well above (hotter) than my 50% sealing curve. Hence you won't be able to run at much hotter ambients unless you back off the throttle or accepted the lower redline behavior.
As you step it up, you will blow past 225F CHT. So be ready. Personally, 225F is no problem. I would suggest 240F as a functional track limit. Which you will also blow past as you get use to the car and hammer it. Because the cooling is so bad stock, the temp will climb very fast that it's difficult to monitor precisely while on track.
As this is my daily and I want it to last a long time I’ll most likely be staying close to the 225. But honestly my biggest limiting factor was the brakes. I could have been braking so much later if I was confident they’d hold up. A good set of slicks would be nice. But I think I’m just spoiled from racing spec miata and taking turns faster, lol! Definitely looking into larger radiator and sealing as well. Thanks!!
Good info, but not entirely correct. The low speed fan comes on at 212-215f coolant temp, not CHT. Coolant temp is typically 8-10f under cht. So basically, you get no fan until somewhere around 220cht. And more amusingly, if your car has shutters they won't fully open until then either. Unless you're flooring it of course. Full speed fan comes on at 223f coolant temp.
What I learned from this thread is that everything works well when it works as a system. How much air comes in, how well it's channeled and how efficient is the extraction are all very important aspects. Bigger rads won't help much if all the air goes around them and then gets trapped inside super hot engine bay. Basically listen to @67Fast_V
, do the sealing first. If you decide to open up the grille, I would serieously think about the louvers lo address the lift and hood potentially flying away. You have PP1 rad, correct?My fan kicks in at 215f CHT, I'm pretty sure about that.
Weird. Must be car/tune dependent. PP car? I mean at idle it's true, but if you're moving it kicks on laterWhat I learned from this thread is that everything works well when it works as a system. How much air comes in, how well it's channeled and how efficient is the extraction are all very important aspects. Bigger rads won't help much if all the air goes around them and then gets trapped inside super hot engine bay. Basically listen to @67Fast_V
My fan kicks in at 215f CHT, I'm pretty sure about that.
That information was from the Ford engineer that was in charge of the team that designed the coyote. No offense to you what so ever, but I'm going off what he told me.
And honestly when I'm driving I can't even hear the fan come on with the tires I have and the roads I drive on lol!
I mean I suppose I don't blame you, I'm just some random person from the internet. But unless my car is special, the data I've logged shows when the fan actually comes on. In the context of track usage, it won't come on until later. If we're talking about sitting there at idle, then yes, 215-216CHT seems to be when it likes to come on. But there's a different strategy when you're moving. Above 45-50mph, and the fan doesn't even run with the A/C on. The car depends on active airflow instead of the fan unless it reaches those threshold coolant temps I mentioned.That information was from the Ford engineer that was in charge of the team that designed the coyote. No offense to you what so ever, but I'm going off what he told me.
I was under the impression the A/C requires the fan to operate? Whenever I turn the A/C on I instantly see the CHT lower to about 196 or lower.
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