Track Brake Pads

[firestarter2]

Exactly what I heard about the track attack program. The brakes don't fade. Not because "instructors use less brakes than amateurs" :headbonk: but because they are that good!

I looked it up and found this quote:

This cooling became necessary when Ford decided to perform a durability test for the GT350R that consisted of a 24-hour run at a racetrack where the lap times were kept within three percent of the car’s flat-out max. The only things that could be replaced during the 24-hour run were brake pads, tires, and fuel. Any other failures and it was back to the drawing board.

https://blog.caranddriver.com/ford-...-the-more-we-learn-the-more-impressed-we-are/

I think the brakes are pretty good.

No one is debating they are good. I'm not reading your post because I got them to fade:doh: what does 3 percent of Max even mean? How do you know that was stock pads etc, maybe they had fade?

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[Eritas]

No one is debating they are good. I'm not reading your post because I got them to fade:doh: what does 3 percent of Max even mean? How do you know that was stock pads etc, maybe they had fade?

So....... [MENTION=24742]firestarter2[/MENTION]

"What track? Did the pedal go to the floor or did you have a good pedal but the car just not stop?"

?

 

[TheDeadCow]

I'm a novice at this so forgive me if this is a dumb question. I went to the dealer and they wanted $363 for pads for each front wheel and a week to order. That doesn't seem cheap for three days so is there a better place to buy them than the dealer? I understand cheap is relative so no need for people to blast me if that is cheap for pads.

Not a dumb question at all.

That seems expensive. LMR has them for a little over $200 for the fronts. You'll also need new caliper bolts to complete the pad swap(dealer/hardware store will have these). Here's a link:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2001L350/mustang-shelby-gt350-r-replacement-front-brake-pads-15-17

FWIW, you may want to check out other track day organizations to run with. Mandating 50%+ brake pads to get on track is a little asinine, at least it seems that way.

 

[Av8orntn]

Not a dumb question at all.

That seems expensive. LMR has them for a little over $200 for the fronts. You'll also need new caliper bolts to complete the pad swap(dealer/hardware store will have these). Here's a link:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2001L350/mustang-shelby-gt350-r-replacement-front-brake-pads-15-17

FWIW, you may want to check out other track day organizations to run with. Mandating 50%+ brake pads to get on track is a little asinine, at least it seems that way.

Thanks. I figured that I was missing something looking at all the links to race pads on here they seemed to be a similar in cost to the aftermarket so I figured that I was missing out on something.

I've already sent an email to the people that make the caliper bolts you don't need to take out so hopefully I hear back from them soon.

 

[firestarter2]

So....... [MENTION=24742]firestarter2[/MENTION]

"What track? Did the pedal go to the floor or did you have a good pedal but the car just not stop?"

?

Pedal didn't go to the floor it started to get soft. My first track day at NJMP lightning. I changed fluids and after market pads since.

 

[Eritas]

Pedal didn't go to the floor it started to get soft. My first track day at NJMP lightning. I changed fluids and after market pads since.

Soft pedal = boiled fluid. NOT faded pads.

With good fluid, GT350 pads apparently don't fade.

 

[TheDeadCow]

Thanks. I figured that I was missing something looking at all the links to race pads on here they seemed to be a similar in cost to the aftermarket so I figured that I was missing out on something.

I've already sent an email to the people that make the caliper bolts you don't need to take out so hopefully I hear back from them soon.

Yes, the caliper studs are great and make life easy. I'd recommend getting the stud extender/caliper hangers as well, very handy considering the caliper is as big as a football.:cheers:

 

[firestarter2]

Soft pedal = boiled fluid. NOT faded pads.

With good fluid, GT350 pads apparently don't fade.

I said the brakes faded I didn't specify what the source was. I also said the aftermarket pads last 2 to 3 times longer. And did they link you posted specify different for fluid?

 

[TheDeadCow]

Here's a link to some cheap pads. Caveat! I have no idea if these are good for the track and no firsthand experience with these.

https://www.r1concepts.com/details/...T350cma_Shelby_GT350R+Front+Performance_Sport

 

[Eritas]

I said the brakes faded I didn't specify what the source was. I also said the aftermarket pads last 2 to 3 times longer. And did they link you posted specify different for fluid?

A soft pedal isn't fade

 

[firestarter2]

A soft pedal isn't fade

"Brake fade is caused by a buildup of heat in the braking surfaces and the subsequent changes and reactions in the brake system components and can be experienced with both drum brakes and disc brakes. Loss of stopping power, or fade, can be caused by friction fade, mechanical fade, or fluid fade."

 

[Eritas]

A soft pedal isn't a PAD issue. You did not fade the PAD. :lol:

 

[firestarter2]

A soft pedal isn't a PAD issue. You did not fade the PAD. :lol:

You said the stock "brakes" dont fade. They do.

 

[Eritas]

You said the stock "brakes" dont fade. They do.

Re-read Post #19

 

[honeybadger]

Re-read Post #19

I should know better, but screw it.

My friend who went to the track attack in Utah said they use stock pads on the GT350s out there and the instructors can't even fade the OEM pad.

You originally said you can't fade the OEM pads, but then corrected firestarter for stating that you can get the OEM setup to brake fade. So not sure where you are going. Have you run non-OEM pads on this car? They can perform quite a bit better and last longer. Do you need them? Nope. But are they preferred by some for the reasons listed above? Yup.

Needless to say, you can fade the OEM SETUP as many have shared their expereince. It is most likely due to driver habits (braking too long). An instructor is "usually" a talented enough driver to manage brake heat more effectively.

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