Those that owned both: tuned 15-17GT and 18-19GT

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

That defeats the purpose of having dual injection. The port injection cleans the valves with fuel and prevents the buildup. That's one major reason why Toyota will not go full DI. No one wants to make the same mistakes of the carbon buildup issues BMW and VW have.

Mazda has some sort of voodoo witchcraft going on in their Skyactiv series (15 and up) that prevents buildup with an intake/exhaust cycle with the longtube header they use to cool the valves. Haven't found a single carbon buildup thread on that DI engine yet.

I had a 2007 Mazdaspeed3 turbo w/ DI for 11 years without any issues. That engine was a boss. With a tune, mid pipe, and cold air intake they make 300 crank hp - out of 2.3 liters. Torque: 330-340 lb ft at the crank with those mods. Car weighed 3,140 lbs - it had a pretty decent lbs/hp. Fun car. But, I don't miss it considering its replacement.

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[accel]

Yeah, guys have fun.

I also feel happy ever since I got rid of di engine.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Did you drive a 2016 with or without the performance package? That makes a tremendous difference to how it feels with those 3.73 gears. The 2018+ manual has overall longer trans ratios, so it feels a little less torquey. The A10 is where it's at if you get a 2018-2019.

FWIW, on 93, I'm making 423 whp, which is near as makes no difference, 500 crank HP. With a flex tune in a couple months, it'll be in the 520-525 crank HP range.

Hate to break it to you, but 423 rwhp in a M6 is not as close to 500 hp as you may think. With an 11% drivetrain loss, it's 475 crank hp (423/0.89 = 475). With 12% loss it is 481 hp. 15% is a little generous for a manual trans.

 

[accel]

I had a 2007 Mazdaspeed3 turbo w/ DI for 11 years without any issues. That engine was a boss. With a tune, mid pipe, and cold air intake they make 300 crank hp - out of 2.3 liters. Torque: 330-340 lb ft at the crank with those mods. Car weighed 3,140 lbs - it had a pretty decent lbs/hp. Fun car. But, I don't miss it considering its replacement.

I personally had big issues with DI engine. Not going to buy another one unless it has strong track of not having carbon buildup issues.

 

[BmacIL]

Hate to break it to you, but 423 rwhp in a M6 is not as close to 500 hp as you may think. With an 11% drivetrain loss, it's 475 crank hp (423/0.89 = 475). With 12% loss it is 481 hp. 15% is a little generous for a manual trans.

Fair. I've seen baseline dynos that indicate anywhere from 11-15% loss, assuming 435 hp (obviously not every engine is making exactly that, but you get the point).

 

[Brico]

I've owned a 17GT PP and an 18GT PP. Both manual.

If you go with manual, there are some pretty significant driving differences between the two cars. Despite both having 3.73s finals, the 18s gears are significantly longer. As a result, the 2017 has much more instant torque available around town. The 2018 can feel lazy at times with how long the gears are. That said, the 2018 definitely has more top end and the higher stock red line is nice. I believe the biggest contributing factor to the top end is the 2018s intake manifold. The 2017s manifold is definitely tuned for mid range.

The 2018 has more low end grunt as well, its just hard to notice with it having such long gears. The one case where I felt I could feel the addiontal low end grunt was 6th gear on the highway. The two cars actually have really similar 6th gears despite every other gear being much different. The addiontal low end isnt gonna blow your socks off though, it's there but its not like it's not gonna be night and day.

All of this means nothing if you go with the A10 though lol.

 

[VikingJoe]

I have not owned an '18 but I test drove one a few days ago when I went to go buy some parts from my dealership. It had a man pedal like my '17. That said, my modded '17 would beat it no problem. But let's be honest, you aren't going to not mod your car, I don't care what year it is. If you did the same mods to the '18 it is going to be faster, no doubt. So I would say just buy the '18 and save for some mods.

I did not drive the A10 because I would never consider anything without a man pedal but based on what I have seen I think the A10 would beat my car no problem. Those transmissions have that voodoo magic going on lol.

 

[BmacIL]

I've owned a 17GT PP and an 18GT PP. Both manual.

If you go with manual, there are some pretty significant driving differences between the two cars. Despite both having 3.73s finals, the 18s gears are significantly longer. As a result, the 2017 has much more instant torque available around town. The 2018 can feel lazy at times with how long the gears are. That said, the 2018 definitely has more top end and the higher stock red line is nice. I believe the biggest contributing factor to the top end is the 2018s intake manifold. The 2017s manifold is definitely tuned for mid range.

The 2018 has more low end grunt as well, its just hard to notice with it having such long gears. The one case where I felt I could feel the addiontal low end grunt was 6th gear on the highway. The two cars actually have really similar 6th gears despite every other gear being much different. The addiontal low end isnt gonna blow your socks off though, it's there but its not like it's not gonna be night and day.

All of this means nothing if you go with the A10 though lol.

Thus why I'd probably do a 2017 MT82 swap if I had a '18+ GT

 

[accel]

I've owned a 17GT PP and an 18GT PP. Both manual.

If you go with manual, there are some pretty significant driving differences between the two cars. Despite both having 3.73s finals, the 18s gears are significantly longer. As a result, the 2017 has much more instant torque available around town. The 2018 can feel lazy at times with how long the gears are. That said, the 2018 definitely has more top end and the higher stock red line is nice. I believe the biggest contributing factor to the top end is the 2018s intake manifold. The 2017s manifold is definitely tuned for mid range.

The 2018 has more low end grunt as well, its just hard to notice with it having such long gears. The one case where I felt I could feel the addiontal low end grunt was 6th gear on the highway. The two cars actually have really similar 6th gears despite every other gear being much different. The addiontal low end isnt gonna blow your socks off though, it's there but its not like it's not gonna be night and day.

All of this means nothing if you go with the A10 though lol.

Sadly, there's not much on 15-17 power packs with 18+ i fo.

18+ engine graphs are stronger, of course. But that does not take gear ratios into account.

 

[Rjames18]

If you 15-17+ owners are sitting here doing a cost-benefit analysis then you need to look at percentages not just money.
Look at cost/horsepower not oh but the 18 cost 4k more when I could spend 3k and be faster..
I have yet to see any 15-17 with less $3k in mods run anywhere close to what mine did with a total of $650 in mods.
Also lets look at both brand new cars.
I found a 17 in grabber blue before I bought my 18. 0 miles besides what the dealership put on going for 28k. Nothing more than a base model with a 6r80.
I found my 18 in Kona blue shortly after and before TTL I paid 29,500. Again base model but with the 10r80 of course.

So even if you spend $3k you on parts you would not beat my 18 with only spending $650.
Cause none of us buying any of these cars are going to leave them stock. For the most part.

Bone stock 15-17 cars see roughly 380-390. I'll use 390.. So $28000/390 comes out to paying $71/whp
Most FBO 15-17 cars are seeing roughly 430-450.. We'll go with 450whp just to help you guys out.
Total investment of 31,000/450whp= 68whp/$.

Now for my 18 which made 420 bone stock for $29,500... Completely stock $29500/420whp= $70/whp and thats stock.
Now lets add on the Flex fuel tune and speed daddy headers =$650 and netted me 477whp
$30,150/477 comes out to a cost of $63 per horsepower.

So yes a bone stock 18 does not have the benefit when looking at a bolt on 15-17. But as soon as you modify the 18 it does now have the cost/hp benefit.

Now if we want to see what my boosted car/whp is I can show you that as well.
Total investment around $12,000. Which has netted me 959 at 11lbs.
But this 18 also had a few more things added on vs my first base model.
Before TTL the car was $34,000+$12000
$46,000/950 = $48/whp

 

[Notagain]

Thank god some decided to math instead of sit and say but but butttttttt bang for buck LOL!!

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I just wanna know where everyone is getting these 29k GTs from? Mine cost 37k. After discounts and haggle. And you guys argueing cost. Need to go back and thoroughly read the ops original post. He asks in his first post. If a modded 15-17GT can be brought up to stock 18 performance levels? Then states, if yes? That is an option for him. Nothing more. And the answer to that question. Is a simple yes! A 15-17 GT can be modded to stock 18 GT levels of performance. People are bringing up the 10 speed over and over. When the op states. He's a die hard manual guy! You guys are making points to questions. That the op didn't ask. Im going to give you guys real simple math. 15GT $24,000 purchase price, plus $1000 for E85 tune and an 18 intake equals $25,000 total cost. Last time I checked that's $4000 cheaper than these base model 29k 18GTs. For the same level of performance. This is where I think the OPs head is at. And before you say well im trapping 118. And I run bla bla bla. You have an automatic. Not a manual. That's the real performance advantage the newer cars have! If bang for the buck isn't an issue in your life. Why are you driving a 29k pony car in the first place. And not some exotic? It sounds like the OP is on a budget. Or he'd just order a loaded 19 GT350R. And be done with it.

 

[growler]

I just wanna know where everyone is getting these 29k GTs from? Mine cost 37k. After discounts and haggle. And you guys argueing cost. Need to go back and thoroughly read the ops original post. He asks in his first post. If a modded 15-17GT can be brought up to stock 18 performance levels? Then states, if yes? That is an option for him. Nothing more. And the answer to that question. Is a simple yes! A 15-17 GT can be modded to stock 18 GT levels of performance. People are bringing up the 10 speed over and over. When the op states. He's a die hard manual guy! You guys are making points to questions. That the op didn't ask. Im going to give you guys real simple math. 15GT $24,000 purchase price, plus $1000 for E85 tune and an 18 intake equals $25,000 total cost. Last time I checked that's $4000 cheaper than these base model 29k 18GTs. For the same level of performance. This is where I think the OPs head is at. And before you say well im trapping 118. And I run bla bla bla. You have an automatic. Not a manual. That's the real performance advantage the newer cars have! If bang for the buck isn't an issue in your life. Why are you driving a 29k pony car in the first place. And not some exotic? It sounds like the OP is on a budget. Or he'd just order a loaded 19 GT350R. And be done with it.[/QUOTEhonestly if the cat is a true performance guy we really shouldn't be answering his post because he says he was die hard stick,,he shoulda been asking ..why did I pay top dollar for a car to gimp myself almost as much as going from v-6 to v-8 with no logical reason...not just the op but anyone,,,why order a slower performance car with worse mileage…..why not order eco an call it a day

 

[bluebeastsrt]

No arguing that point. A real car guy would also know that a high reving coyote. Is not going to have the same low end grunt. As his previous roots style boosted GT. No matter what you choice. New or used.

 

[BCB06GT]

I am driving a 2018 GT Auto tomorrow to see what the hype is all about. Maybe it will be more than I am thinking it will be.
As for pricing of new 2018 GTs, you can get a base with 301A for $27,984 with the rebates. Premium GTs are $30,xxx (with no additional add-ons).
Interesting replies for sure.

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