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The Devil Is In The Detailing

J o n

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I want to at least see if it’s beat up. Without at least washing it, how to check?
You'll be able to tell upon it rolling off the truck if it's "beat up". Having a dealer wash a car will introduce swirls without question. They're washing cars for people who look at cars as appliances, not detail oriented enough to understand the how improper washing/drying damages paint/soft plastics

Swirls only develop due to user error when washing/drying. Proper wash/dry technique can prevent swirls on stock car, no protection/coatings. Drying is biggest culprit with swirl. Lubrication is key

Dealerships by me are terrible with prep and 1st wash. Either a touch car wash is used and dirty chamois to dry. Or hand wash rags and similar dry technique. Don't let them wash you car upon arrival.

IMO, get the impact areas done with PPF then get ceramic coating on car, windows, wheels, and calipers. Pressure wash to maintain when it's dusty and leaf blow dry. Only contact is when it's really dirty. But you still pressure wash to the point of being clean and then wash with rinseless wash product, no pressure on mit or sponge, use coating reload as lubricant to dry.

Replace brake pads with ceramic pads for street use too to keep the wheels clean and further reduce swirls on dark wheels. Brake dust is just metal
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hbash

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I haven't seen a Maserati, Ferrari, Rolls Royce dealer selling Mustangs.....so I am going to still say no to the dealer washing the car.
How will you inspect you vehicle for scratches and dings without at least some kind of washing?
 
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You'll be able to tell upon it rolling off the truck if it's "beat up". Having a dealer wash a car will introduce swirls without question. They're washing cars for people who look at cars as appliances, not detail oriented enough to understand the how improper washing/drying damages paint/soft plastics

Swirls only develop due to user error when washing/drying. Proper wash/dry technique can prevent swirls on stock car, no protection/coatings. Drying is biggest culprit with swirl. Lubrication is key

Dealerships by me are terrible with prep and 1st wash. Either a touch car wash is used and dirty chamois to dry. Or hand wash rags and similar dry technique. Don't let them wash you car upon arrival.

IMO, get the impact areas done with PPF then get ceramic coating on car, windows, wheels, and calipers. Pressure wash to maintain when it's dusty and leaf blow dry. Only contact is when it's really dirty. But you still pressure wash to the point of being clean and then wash with rinseless wash product, no pressure on mit or sponge, use coating reload as lubricant to dry.

Replace brake pads with ceramic pads for street use too to keep the wheels clean and further reduce swirls on dark wheels. Brake dust is just metal
What rinse-less wash product? Also, can you link to ceramic pads?
 

m3incorp

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Having bought multiple new cars. I have them pull them under the bright lights, if they are dusty, then a rinse with water hose only. That gives me enough to go with. I can assure you that many dealerships will put on the very first scratches in their wash bays. Go stand by and watch what they use and how the cars are washed and you will see what I mean.

How will you inspect you vehicle for scratches and dings without at least some kind of washing?
 
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Having bought multiple new cars. I have them pull them under the bright lights, if they are dusty, then a rinse with water hose only. That gives me enough to go with. I can assure you that many dealerships will put on the very first scratches in their wash bays. Go stand by and watch what they use and how the cars are washed and you will see what I mean.
Washed with water hose and not dried, correct?
 

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My dealer didn't want to touch it - they even asked about installing the plate. They didn't wash it. They basically got it out of the show room (where they didn't let anyone sit in it), and gave me gas $ to fill it up myself for the ride home :).
 

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Yes and no need to use any wash mitts on the car....you can then inspect for dings and imperfections. With that having been said, these cars often come with paint imperfections from the factory that will require a detailer. Pay a detailer if needed or make a deal with the dealer to cover an amount of the detailer you choose. A lot of dealers won't do it, but worth a try.

Edit...keep in mind the dealer knows that if you refuse the car, they will be able to sell it to someone else. I like to feel special when I buy a brand new car, but I know in reality that is not really the case in thier eyes.

Washed with water hose and not dried, correct?
 

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What rinse-less wash product? Also, can you link to ceramic pads?
When I actually washed my ceramic coated coated cars, I pressure washed them first. Then sprayed this on them. https://americandetailergarage.com/products/ready-to-use-wipeout Let it dwell for a bit. Then used a sponge to go over the surface, no pressure, just contact.

Some people then again pressure wash, then dry. My detailer said to let whatever remains of the rinseless wash remain and then use this while drying with microfiber towel, lubrication is key to drying.
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Reloa...6&keywords=carpro+reset&qid=1619113307&sr=8-6

If your car is ceramic coated, you can pressure wash and leaf blow your car as a form of 'dusting it' clean
 

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I do agree that is a good method of washing your ceramic coated cars.

For regular washes on my car that has PPF on the entire front clip, rear wheel areas and roof edge, plus full ceramic coating (usually bi-weekly as a min), I use my pressure washer with the black nozzle and spray the car. I then hook up my foam cannon (use cannon of choice and foaming solution of choice), I use Chemical guys PH neutral solution in mine. I foam the car and then pull out my wheel wash bucket with the same Chemical Guys wash detergent and clean the wheels and tires. I then use the black nozzle and rinse the entire car and wheels. (Some people skip the rinse of the foam and go straight to washing). I use a two bucket method and four different wash mitts to wash the car. I then rinse again and afterwards, I pull it into the garage and dry it with the Air Cannon.

For in-between washes. I use either Optimum No-Rinse or Xpel No-Rinse. I make two buckets of the no-rinse solution and use a couple of wash mitts to wash the car. I then dry it with my big microfiber towels.

Your detailer is definitely right in that lubrication is the key to reducing scratches...use a brand of choice of detail spray for lubrication.


When I actually washed my ceramic coated coated cars, I pressure washed them first. Then sprayed this on them. https://americandetailergarage.com/products/ready-to-use-wipeout Let it dwell for a bit. Then used a sponge to go over the surface, no pressure, just contact.

Some people then again pressure wash, then dry. My detailer said to let whatever remains of the rinseless wash remain and then use this while drying with microfiber towel, lubrication is key to drying.
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Reloa...6&keywords=carpro+reset&qid=1619113307&sr=8-6

If your car is ceramic coated, you can pressure wash and leaf blow your car as a form of 'dusting it' clean
 

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Check at 32:07

He says yes and to make sure to tell your salesman to ONLY do the following:

  • Only Wash Vehicle
  • No wax
  • pH neutral no wax car shampoo
  • Fresh soapy solution for my car
  • Microfiber or car blower to dry
  • No dressing inside or out
  • No tire dressing
  • No paint sealants
I Disagree (assuming you are getting the car before any prep) the dealer "wash crew" will install swirls on your virgin paint.

If the car has been on the lot, tell them not to touch it (so the "wash crew" doesn't get another opportunity to screw up your paint even more), take it home dirty and plan on a weekend of paint correction at home to de-swirl your paint and wax and seal it.
 
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Check at 32:07

He says yes and to make sure to tell your salesman to ONLY do the following:

  • Only Wash Vehicle
  • No wax
  • pH neutral no wax car shampoo
  • Fresh soapy solution for my car
  • Microfiber or car blower to dry
  • No dressing inside or out
  • No tire dressing
  • No paint sealants
 
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hbash

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I Disagree (assuming you are getting the car before any prep) the dealer "wash crew" will install swirls on your virgin paint.

If the car has been on the lot, tell them not to touch it (so the "wash crew" doesn't get another opportunity to screw up your paint even more), take it home dirty and plan on a weekend of paint correction at home to de-swirl your paint and wax and seal it.
The car is on a car carrier right now. The plan is that as soon as it arrives at the dealership, I get a call, come by, do the final paper work and come back to pick up the car after they do the predelivery steps (no detailing, maybe only wash, no drying) and I come back to drive off into the sunset.
 

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Silly title, but ran across a channel with a detailer that may be of interest.

The question he posses is should you detail a new car?

Pan The Organizer
I follow him on You Tube, he has good stuff and revirws.
 

m3incorp

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The problem with his recommendation is that most dealers buy their car wash shampoo in drums and you can believe the PH neutral shampoo was not a factor when they order the drums...As for microfiber or air drying...they are going to use whatever they already have. The dealer detail guys are most likely hourly pay and probably aren't showing those new vehicles much love.
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