The Camber Plates IMO

[NoXiDe]

I’m glad I bought the Vorshlag Camber Plates and I hope this posts answers any doubts you may have had about which product to buy.

I actually had an issue with them but it was my own doing and possibly several others contributed. I didn’t do the original install so I was at a disadvantage. I’ve always double checked everyone’s work so I got home and rechecked the alignment rack tech’s work. I misread the torque specs which was 18+- ft/lbs of torque is all that’s required for the 3 strut nuts. I won’t share what the oem torque requirements are because that’s what I used and it led to the bolt snapping in half. These do not require oem specs. Best case scenario if something has to go wrong.

I tried just lowering the strut after disconnecting the upper end link but soon discovered I had to pull the entire strut out to have access to the top part of the Camber Plates. If anyone could confirm some other component could be undone to simplify the process but I didn’t see it possible. So the strut came out, I’d like to thank the spline bolts for the fun time.

I’m obviously not glad it happened but I’m glad that it gave me an opportunity to revisit the install and I must say it’s a really neat product. I can’t imagine buying anything else and the replacement once out of the car was a laughter of 30 seconds just to repair. The same 3/16 Allen nuts that you adjust for caster comes out and it allows you to pull out the ring. Slide the new one in and your ready to go. It also gave me an opportunity to see how easy it actually is to adjust from track to street and vice versa. It has built in marks that you could easily use as a reference point. Obviously, you just got to get some load off the wheel and the 3 nuts up top loosen enough to slide it the direction you want. Okay, maybe some elbow grease is needed too but the logic makes sense.

Anyhow, below is the repair. (Without the plate)

I got to admit that I’m not aware of any other products and I’m not sure how those others work but I can’t see myself getting anything else. Jason at Vorshlag is also incredible and I could say they got me as a returning customer if I ever need anything else.

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[galaxy]

Trying to get my bearings from your pics, but how/where is caster adjusted?

I’ve heard these things are soo pretty in person you’re not gonna want to put them on the car.

 

[NoXiDe]

Trying to get my bearings from your pics, but how/where is caster adjusted?

I’ve heard these things are soo pretty in person you’re not gonna want to put them on the car.

yeah their a work of art just like the mgw shifter is too. All I was missing is a white strut for my red,white, and blue theme.

to answer your question, the whole system slides back and forth (caster) and left and right for Camber. You undo the Allen 3/16 nuts and slide it back or forward (stock) to change the caster.You’ll see there is a open hole closest to you and another one on the other side. Most people who have dedicated track cars cut the top as well and can actually get -3 + negative Camber. So far I’ve since I haven’t cut the top tower out, therefore, the most I’ve seen was -2.1 with the help of camber bolts too.

 

[JAJ]

Trying to get my bearings from your pics, but how/where is caster adjusted?

I’ve heard these things are soo pretty in person you’re not gonna want to put them on the car.

I have a set of these parked on a shelf in my garage - they were a bit noisy for my taste (they don't make noise, but it's a metal-to-metal-to-metal sound path from the wheel all the way to the chassis). The camber adjustment works just like every other camber adjuster - undo the nuts, slide it and do it up.

FP changed the steering geometry for the 2020+ GT500 and the 2020 GT350R by changing the knuckle, and the changes included an extra degree of caster. So long as you don't mind cutting the fender, you can duplicate that caster change with the Vorshlag plates.

The caster adjustment is done by removing the three flat-head allen screws and sliding the mount forward (moving the strut bearing to the rear) and putting them back in again. It adds exactly one degree of caster. That's the good news. The bad news is that you have to cut the strut tower top to make room for the strut nut to stick through because it won't go through the existing hole any more.

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