Sprintamx
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
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- Location
- Mid-Atlantic
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Shelby GT350
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- #1
Taking inspiration and several steps from fellow forum member SVTDSM, and since I was in a situation where I needed my Tech Pack to be relatively track capable, I took the plunge and fabricated a transmission cooler setup. This was more a result of my immediate circumstances than losing or lacking faith in Ford releasing a solution. I'll leave that particular topic to other threads.
I previously hit limp mode during a track event on a relatively cool day, so I had no doubt that I would lose power quickly in 85-90 degree F ambient. Simply put, if I wanted to work this car on track, a transmission cooler would be necessary.
The most time for the install was spent thinking through my priorities and identifying mounting and routing locations accordingly. Then as with any make-it-up-as-you-go project (or, design/build if you prefer), there were lots of trial and error steps, re-do's and successes. Ultimately, with the right equipment, the job can be done in a day or two.
My priorities were:
1. No body or chassis modifications (not even drilling holes where they won't be seen!). This included not removing anything OE that might get in the way, except for a lower grill block-off plate inside the fender cover. This part is replaced with an air duct in the Track Pack and R's. I bought the duct but ended up not using it at the moment.
2. No need to remove the belly pan or bumper cover.
3. All parts and bits readily available through multiple vendors.
4. No special tools required. Having said that, a lift is a god-send, and having the right tools to fabricate hoses with -an fittings is a must. These tools are readily available.
5. Everything easily removable and reversible.
6. Keep costs down.
Now, I basically copied SVTDSM's build setup and parts list, and proceeded to change most aspects except for the cooler mounting location (no other good options based on my priorities) and his choice of bulkhead fittings into the transmission (again, no other better options based on tranny size, location, room in the tunnel, shade tree fabrication process, etc.). If you're interested in this approach, SVTDSM has kindly identified all of the parts in his thread (CX Racing cooler, Mocal pump, 8 -an lines, types of fittings, etc.).
Hopefully I'll be able to load pictures that will illustrate the description.
I do not have before and after temp data. All that I can say is that I ran 30 minute sessions in high ambient temperatures with no limp mode over two days of tracking at Watkins Glen International. I pushed the car hard at all times, limited only by the low performance envelope of the OE Michelin PSS. I am confident to say that with the success of the cooler, I can legitimately consider going to a second set of wheels with R compounds and consider improving the alignment.
The cooler setup is straightforward: lines, pump, cooler, fittings, and a switch. Like SVTDSM, I chose a Mocal fluid pump (purchased from Racer Parts Wholesale, and shipped to me withing two days). Because Mocal does not recommend using the pump for continuous duty, I opted not to wire the pump into an ignition source. That may be a non-starter for some, but I needed a quick, specific application solution. Also, I did not attempt to run the switch into the cabin. Instead, I temporarily mounted the switch using double-sided tape to the fuse box. There's plenty of surface area there, it's pretty much out of sight, and wiring is the easiest part of the job.
The real key in my setup was finding a mounting location for the pump. There is a mounting bracket at the front of the engine bay with two bolts that are spaced in the exact dimension to affix the mounting plate that comes with the Mocal! The pump mounts vertically in this location. I didn't have to remove the washer fluid reservoir, didn't need to make any new holes, and didn't need to fabricate any kind of bracket for the pump. Huge bonus here.
I mounted the cooler by utilizing an existing bolt for one bracket, and bolting a second bracket through an existing hole in a metal bracket that provides mounting locations and support for the quarter panel. I re-purposed a cast off bracket for the one location and used pre-drilled steel strap for the second. I'll admit that these brackets may look, um, non-professional, but they're solid and hold the cooler quite firmly. If I decide to remove the belly pan and fender cover at some point, I'll spend the time to fabricate more elegant brackets.
After these steps, running lines, fittings and the wiring was simply a matter of measuring and keeping the fluid lines in a safe path. There's plenty of room for this. The fill/return line runs over top of the transmission and then is bundled with the drain line for the run to the pump/cooler. The pump is mounted on the return side of the cooler as recommended. This required reversing the pump head for proper flow based on my setup. That's perfectly fine, and Mocal explains how to do this in its instructions.
The system works, and I managed to install it without any leaks after two days of track use. The system required around 4 quarts to fill. Good thing I bought 5 quarts to cover the inevitable spills.
I'll answer the questions that I can, and hopefully the pics will help.
I previously hit limp mode during a track event on a relatively cool day, so I had no doubt that I would lose power quickly in 85-90 degree F ambient. Simply put, if I wanted to work this car on track, a transmission cooler would be necessary.
The most time for the install was spent thinking through my priorities and identifying mounting and routing locations accordingly. Then as with any make-it-up-as-you-go project (or, design/build if you prefer), there were lots of trial and error steps, re-do's and successes. Ultimately, with the right equipment, the job can be done in a day or two.
My priorities were:
1. No body or chassis modifications (not even drilling holes where they won't be seen!). This included not removing anything OE that might get in the way, except for a lower grill block-off plate inside the fender cover. This part is replaced with an air duct in the Track Pack and R's. I bought the duct but ended up not using it at the moment.
2. No need to remove the belly pan or bumper cover.
3. All parts and bits readily available through multiple vendors.
4. No special tools required. Having said that, a lift is a god-send, and having the right tools to fabricate hoses with -an fittings is a must. These tools are readily available.
5. Everything easily removable and reversible.
6. Keep costs down.
Now, I basically copied SVTDSM's build setup and parts list, and proceeded to change most aspects except for the cooler mounting location (no other good options based on my priorities) and his choice of bulkhead fittings into the transmission (again, no other better options based on tranny size, location, room in the tunnel, shade tree fabrication process, etc.). If you're interested in this approach, SVTDSM has kindly identified all of the parts in his thread (CX Racing cooler, Mocal pump, 8 -an lines, types of fittings, etc.).
Hopefully I'll be able to load pictures that will illustrate the description.
I do not have before and after temp data. All that I can say is that I ran 30 minute sessions in high ambient temperatures with no limp mode over two days of tracking at Watkins Glen International. I pushed the car hard at all times, limited only by the low performance envelope of the OE Michelin PSS. I am confident to say that with the success of the cooler, I can legitimately consider going to a second set of wheels with R compounds and consider improving the alignment.
The cooler setup is straightforward: lines, pump, cooler, fittings, and a switch. Like SVTDSM, I chose a Mocal fluid pump (purchased from Racer Parts Wholesale, and shipped to me withing two days). Because Mocal does not recommend using the pump for continuous duty, I opted not to wire the pump into an ignition source. That may be a non-starter for some, but I needed a quick, specific application solution. Also, I did not attempt to run the switch into the cabin. Instead, I temporarily mounted the switch using double-sided tape to the fuse box. There's plenty of surface area there, it's pretty much out of sight, and wiring is the easiest part of the job.
The real key in my setup was finding a mounting location for the pump. There is a mounting bracket at the front of the engine bay with two bolts that are spaced in the exact dimension to affix the mounting plate that comes with the Mocal! The pump mounts vertically in this location. I didn't have to remove the washer fluid reservoir, didn't need to make any new holes, and didn't need to fabricate any kind of bracket for the pump. Huge bonus here.
I mounted the cooler by utilizing an existing bolt for one bracket, and bolting a second bracket through an existing hole in a metal bracket that provides mounting locations and support for the quarter panel. I re-purposed a cast off bracket for the one location and used pre-drilled steel strap for the second. I'll admit that these brackets may look, um, non-professional, but they're solid and hold the cooler quite firmly. If I decide to remove the belly pan and fender cover at some point, I'll spend the time to fabricate more elegant brackets.
After these steps, running lines, fittings and the wiring was simply a matter of measuring and keeping the fluid lines in a safe path. There's plenty of room for this. The fill/return line runs over top of the transmission and then is bundled with the drain line for the run to the pump/cooler. The pump is mounted on the return side of the cooler as recommended. This required reversing the pump head for proper flow based on my setup. That's perfectly fine, and Mocal explains how to do this in its instructions.
The system works, and I managed to install it without any leaks after two days of track use. The system required around 4 quarts to fill. Good thing I bought 5 quarts to cover the inevitable spills.
I'll answer the questions that I can, and hopefully the pics will help.
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