System issues

[matholland618]

Hey all! I'll try to make this as short as possible. When I first got my car, I installed an amp. At the time of install I had 2 kicker cvr 12s in a box paired with a kicker 750.1. Everything worked fine. I traded the 2 cvrs for 2 type r 10s and everything worked fine except there was one 2 ohm sub and 1 4 ohm sub. And one voice coil was blown. Got screwed on that deal. Then I had some cheap Pyle subs and a Pyle amp that came with a jeep I bought. Someone offered me the big ol kicker 2500.1.

I had one of these back when I was 16. These things produce some power! So I had them on my type rs but had it turned down almost all the way.

Well today I picked up 2 12 inch lander optidrive 1232. There are pretty sweet subs. I don't have an ohm meter here to verify but they don't smell burnt, they are dual 2 ohm subs wired in a series to 2 ohms. I didn't change any settings on my amp since I had the type rs in. There hit much harder. However. I noticed that when I turn it up to around 28 or 29 on my base radio it makes the ration screen actually turn off, and sub cuts out then it comes back on. Its actually making my green start light go off and back on.

Now I know the 2500.1 should have a battery in the trunk to run off of. However I never did when I had a kicker 2500.1 when I was 16 with 2 db drive 15s in the back of my 96 mustang with the bass boost turned much higher than I have it in my 15.

Little wiring info.

I have 2 gauge wire ran from my battery back to my amp. Ground is ran to where my seat belt is at in the rear and short as possible.

Out of all the systems i have installed for people and ones I've had of my own that I've installed, i have never seen anything like it.

Does anyone have any ideas?

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[OEMRadio]

Lower the ohm load the more current needed for the amp.. the amp is coefficient at a higher ohm load..

Basically you are pulling much more current..

so.. basic rule is wattage divided by voltage is your current draw.. 2500/12 = 208 amps.. you are killing your charging system.. adding a battery won't help.. that adds to the charging requirements of your alternator.. so.. if you continue to do this.. you will blow up the alternator.. and cause damage to other computers from the constant voltage fluctuation.. computers do not like that ..

Dual 2 I would just run at 8 ohm.. it will lower the output of the amp and put you at a safer level.. but even if it half the current draw.. it is still 100 amps.. not including the rest of the cars electronics.. such as A/C.. computers.. and the rest