Swift Spec-R Springs- Specs and Details

[Competition Orange]

Interesting that the front spring rates are more toward BMR handling yet the rears are softer than the BMR performance.

From everything I read, the more rear rate the better.

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[hulk_smash]

The stiffer the spring, the better the strut and shockl that you will need to control dampening. Stiffer isn't always better. The shock is more important than the spring.

With that said, too stiff in the rear and your car will be more loose "generally" speaking.

I'm not that familiar with this car but most people who are not experienced drifters or have extensive track experience is better off with less spring rate. Car control is more difficult the stiffer your car is set up.

Hope this helps.

 

[Competition Orange]

All serious racers in this platform say that the rear requires very high rates. I agree on dampers though.

 

[hulk_smash]

I track a e46 m3 track car in the most advanced groups in my local organizations. I would say I have a good amount of experience under my belt.
Again, I don't know this platform that well as I just got the car 5 days ago. :cheers:

But generally speaking, a novice who is not comfortable at 9/10ths+ with all nannies off would do better with less spring and less tire. Stiff spring with bad shocks is a bad combo. Stiff springs with bad shocks and super sticky tires is even worse. Your springs should be as stiff as your dampers can allow.

From what I have been reading, Koni yellows + swift or BMR handling or steeda linear ultralights seem to be the way to go for a real OEM+ sport suspension that can actually take track abuse.

I have had Koni based coilovers on my M3 before they did not provide enough dampening for extreme spring rates. My M3 runs 700/850 spring rates on JRZ shocks. Those can easily handle higher spring rates.

From my experience with Koni coilovers, the base valving was not suitable for 700+ lbs spring rates.

Swift states their shock was designed for the upper limits of the PP suspension. I would imagine that this would ideally mate extremely well with the Konis.

Is there a chart that describes spring rates for all of the available performance oriented springs? I'd love to know the spring rates and the estimated drop information.

I hate slammed cars but I hate too much gap.

 

[BmacIL]

All serious racers in this platform say that the rear requires very high rates. I agree on dampers though.

To a point. I would go high enough to noticeably reduce rear-end squat under acceleration and then add rear bar to get roll stiffness. It's a balancing act, though, as too high of rear bar setting will make the car tricky to drive over kerbs/unsettled pavement.

 

[BmacIL]

I track a e46 m3 track car in the most advanced groups in my local organizations. I would say I have a good amount of experience under my belt.
Again, I don't know this platform that well as I just got the car 5 days ago. :cheers:

But generally speaking, a novice who is not comfortable at 9/10ths+ with all nannies off would do better with less spring and less tire. Stiff spring with bad shocks is a bad combo. Stiff springs with bad shocks and super sticky tires is even worse. Your springs should be as stiff as your dampers can allow.

From what I have been reading, Koni yellows + swift or BMR handling or steeda linear ultralights seem to be the way to go for a real OEM+ sport suspension that can actually take track abuse.

I have had Koni based coilovers on my M3 before they did not provide enough dampening for extreme spring rates. My M3 runs 700/850 spring rates on JRZ shocks. Those can easily handle higher spring rates.

From my experience with Koni coilovers, the base valving was not suitable for 700+ lbs spring rates.

Swift states their shock was designed for the upper limits of the PP suspension. I would imagine that this would ideally mate extremely well with the Konis.

Is there a chart that describes spring rates for all of the available performance oriented springs? I'd love to know the spring rates and the estimated drop information.

I hate slammed cars but I hate too much gap.

This is entirely dependent on the motion ratios. On a strut, they are the same. On the S550, the rear shock has a larger ratio than the spring (shock has more displacement for a given wheel travel than the spring at the same wheel travel), so it can handle a heavier spring rate than if they were equal motion ratios. The BMR handling rears are over 900 lb/in and all reports say that Koni yellows, and even the FRPP track dampers handle that rate just fine.

 

[Competition Orange]

I track a e46 m3 track car in the most advanced groups in my local organizations. I would say I have a good amount of experience under my belt.
Again, I don't know this platform that well as I just got the car 5 days ago. :cheers:

Welcome. Lots of good info here, some bad stuff. My comments are geared towards performance not daily or novice level. In that instance, more rate the better, when speaking with OTC springs.

To a point. I would go high enough to noticeably reduce rear-end squat under acceleration and then add rear bar to get roll stiffness. It's a balancing act, though, as too high of rear bar setting will make the car tricky to drive over kerbs/unsettled pavement.

Obviously.

 

[hulk_smash]

So would you guys recommend Koni or FRPP (track version) for a more track oriented shock.

Since I'm used to race suspension, I feel like the PP is too softly sprung and the dampening is all over the place.

And what spring would you recommend and why? I kind of like the modest drop of Swift Spec R. But not sure that is the best route for pure handling on a race track.

Any recommendations would help!

 

[wildcatgoal]

Koni or Steeda Pro-Action, not FRPP. You will want adjustability and the FRPP shocks are basically PP shock valving with an some kind of integral bumpstop (so I have been told by someone who put them on a "shock dyno" and I have no reason to disbelieve this particular person).

If you want a setup that distributes the weight of the car appropriate for handling, Steeda Ultralites are a good choice, IMHO. They have a tendency to make the vehicle sit with a slightly larger fender gap up front vs. the back, but that biasing of weight toward the back helps this car's weight transfer in turns head toward the back outside wheel vs. the front... makes it feel even when it turns.

Swift Spec R claim a similar drop and are firmer springs up front, not in back. I have seen Spec R drop and it's not as low as what Ultralites end up being in the back.

I think you'd be happy with either. Have to understand, going Eibach Sportline low on this car is not necessarily going to equate to improved handling. You have to allow, especially in the rear, the suspension geometry to work. Too low is basically just sitting on bumpstops.

 

[Competition Orange]

Best route is high dollar coilovers.

What is dampening?

Ill be on koni and BMR handling springs and sways this winter. Currently just on the springs.

 

[wildcatgoal]

With that said, too stiff in the rear and your car will be more loose "generally" speaking.

Specifically, more tendency toward oversteer.

 

[hulk_smash]

Koni or Steeda Pro-Action, not FRPP. You will want adjustability and the FRPP shocks are basically PP shock valving with an some kind of integral bumpstop (so I have been told by someone who put them on a "shock dyno" and I have no reason to disbelieve this particular person).

If you want a setup that distributes the weight of the car appropriate for handling, Steeda Ultralites are a good choice, IMHO. They have a tendency to make the vehicle sit with a slightly larger fender gap up front vs. the back, but that biasing of weight toward the back helps this car's weight transfer in turns head toward the back outside wheel vs. the front... makes it feel even when it turns.

Swift Spec R claim a similar drop and are firmer springs. I have seen Spec R drop and it's not as low as what Ultralites end up being in the back. I believe the spring rates between Ultralites and Swift Spec R are too that far off. Can't remember.

I think you'd be happy with either. Have to understand, going Eibach Sportline low on this car is not necessarily going to equate to improved handling. You have to allow, especially in the rear, the suspension geometry to work. Too low is basically just sitting on bumpstops.

Thanks for the feedback.

The ideal drop rate on e46 M3s are slightly higher in front and a little lower in the rear. It doesn't look great. But as you stated, the car transfers weight better with that ideal rake.

I guess I'll look into BMR/Steeda and Koni/Steeda dampers.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[wildcatgoal]

See this: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44925

 

[wildcatgoal]

Some guy on here has Koni Yellow/Steeda Pro-Action (I think the latter) + Swift Spec-R. They say "use the search function" but it's f'ing useless most of the time. But it's on here somewhere. He loves them. With my setup, I can rip through mountain roads and make mistakes all day and look like I know what I'm doing. If I'm honest, I can't say I like the the "look" of the drop with Ultralites, but their really quite an ideal design. They look perfect with typical OEM PP and aftermarket 19" wheel and tire sizes. I have 20" so my back tire is a balloon. I half want to try Swift Spec Rs but I don't want to spend $315 just to try them.

 

[hulk_smash]

Some guy on here has Koni Yellow/Steeda Pro-Action (I think the latter) + Swift Spec-R. They say "use the search function" but it's f'ing useless most of the time. But it's on here somewhere. He loves them. With my setup, I can rip through mountain roads and make mistakes all day and look like I know what I'm doing. If I'm honest, I can't say I like the the "look" of the drop with Ultralites, but their really quite an ideal design. They look perfect with typical OEM PP and aftermarket 19" wheel and tire sizes. I have 20" so my back tire is a balloon. I half want to try Swift Spec Rs but I don't want to spend $315 just to try them.

Search functions on forums all seem broken. I think what most people mean is to use Google lol.

I'm leaning heavily toward Swift. Not sure if I'm going Steeda or Koni. I have bad experience with Koni type coilovers. I used to have TCKline on my e46 M3 (koni based coilover). It was a decent coilover, but I'd always go 2 or 3 wheeling off berms. Never felt planted on bumpy sections of track. Since I Switched to JRZ RS Pro and it glides through berms and laptimes keep dropping.

I need to research Steeda more. Steeda sounds more appealing since I hate the base valving on Konis.

I'll keep you posted on which route I take and will definitely keep you posted.

.

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