subwoofer and amplifier install questions

[scott_0]

ok, Ive done some searching and Ive gotten mixed returns, I have the Shaker Pro 12 speaker system in my 2016, the subwoofer is anemic at best :frusty: Im looking at installing a 10" sub with a Kicker amp I have laying around, the amp accepts high level (speaker level) inputs or high level inputs, obviously the easiest route is how I want to go, which is tapping into the rear speakers for the signal to the amp, you guys that have used this method, how is the sound quality of the bass? is it muddy or distorted? Ive seen a few post on here saying it sounds fine. or should I tap into the front speakers before the amplifier? or, Im not sure this is possible, since I have the factory subwoofer, can I use the factory subwoofer wiring for the signal to my new amp?

Sponsored

 

[rambunctious]

Scott_O

would you not want to use the factory LFE (line level sub signal) and dial in the gain of your new sub/amp combo?
I do not know what processing is on this signal, but it may be less than what is present on the signal for the (smaller, less quality) rear speakers?

just a thought

Ramb

 

[scott_0]

Scott_O

would you not want to use the factory LFE (line level sub signal) and dial in the gain of your new sub/amp combo?
I do not know what processing is on this signal, but it may be less than what is present on the signal for the (smaller, less quality) rear speakers?

just a thought

Ramb

yeah I would think that would best, but Ive never seen anyone say theyve done this, Ill do it that and see how it works out. Thanks!

 

[bigred90gt]

I have the regular 9 speaker shaker system in mine. I tapped in at the rear speakers with a LOC to run my sub. Ran to a crossover then to the amp, then to the sub. Sounds great to me. I have no distortion or "roll-off" that people seem to complain about. I didn't really want to pull the entire interior of the car apart to replace all of the speakers, and my setup has more than satisfied my ears.

 

[solodogg]

I'm not sure you can use the factory sub output without a line level driver, as it's pretty low voltage. You would probably be a lot better with an LOC on the rear speakers for SQ purposes.

A little off-topic, but shoot me a PM if you decide to pull the OEM sub/wiring harness and sell it. I'm wanting to do some tinkering with the as-built files for audio, and curious how the OEM sub will respond.

 

[Nik_Ind]

I have the regular 9 speaker shaker system in mine. I tapped in at the rear speakers with a LOC to run my sub. Ran to a crossover then to the amp, then to the sub. Sounds great to me. I have no distortion or "roll-off" that people seem to complain about. I didn't really want to pull the entire interior of the car apart to replace all of the speakers, and my setup has more than satisfied my ears.

Hey! What LOC did you use? Planning to install 2 10" Rockford Fosgate subs paired with a Punch 500BD amp. I'm currently running an Alpine powered sub without an LOC, tapped from the rear speakers without any issue. Just wanted to know if the LOC will make any substantial difference.

 

[Chef jpd]

I used high level RCA's tapped off the rear speakers, if you amp has high level inputs, no need for a LOC.
Also, the factory sub input is a single source blended signal that is not compatible with aftermarket amps.
And , the factory remote turn on is only 6 volts, so depending on your amp, you might need a new source.

I used a RF dual voice coil 8" in the factory sub enclosure, and a RF 300w amp.
Not muddy at all, very tight and clean bass, excellent and economical choice.

 

[Nik_Ind]

I used high level RCA's tapped off the rear speakers, if you amp has high level inputs, no need for a LOC.
Also, the factory sub input is a single source blended signal that is not compatible with aftermarket amps.
And , the factory remote turn on is only 6 volts, so depending on your amp, you might need a new source.

I used a RF dual voice coil 8" in the factory sub enclosure, and a RF 300w amp.
Not muddy at all, very tight and clean bass, excellent and economical choice.

Nice clean setup there, bud! I was told, however, that there's a lot of processing in the rear channel after the amp, so it's best to use signal at the amp. Not sure if an LOC makes any difference:shrug: I'm getting 2 RF 10" DVC subs soon! Still contemplating whether I should use the rear speaker signal or the amp level inputs.

 

[mumbles]

Nice clean setup there, bud! I was told, however, that there's a lot of processing in the rear channel after the amp, so it's best to use signal at the amp. Not sure if an LOC makes any difference:shrug: I'm getting 2 RF 10" DVC subs soon! Still contemplating whether I should use the rear speaker signal or the amp level inputs.

I believe the Rockford Punch 500BD amp only has low-level RCA inputs, so it looks like you'll need an LOC to grab the rear speaker signal. Also, that's a mono amp capable of driving a 2ohm load, so be careful with your choice of DVC subs...

 

[Nik_Ind]

I believe the Rockford Punch 500BD amp only has low-level RCA inputs, so it looks like you'll need an LOC to grab the rear speaker signal. Also, that's a mono amp capable of driving a 2ohm load, so be careful with your choice of DVC subs...

You're right about the inputs on the 500X1BD, bud! However, it accepts speaker level input via the RCA adapter. So, I'm guessing I should be good without the LOC. I'll be getting the P2D4, which is 4 Ohm and I'll wire them at 1 Ohm which this amp is capable of handling. Got this info from Crutchfield!

Sponsored