thespazardman
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2016
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- Location
- Pacific NW
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mustang GT, 1968 Mustang Fastback
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- #1
**Edit: As described below I'm using the high level inputs on my Alpine amp to get signal and to turn on the amp (high input works as the remote turn on wire). I noticed the amp doesn't turn off immediately after the stereo or even the car is shut off. Apparently, Ford doesnt turn off the stereo signal to the speakers just becuase you turn the stereo off or shut the car off and lock the doors. However, I set up a video camera inside the car facing the amplifier so i could shut everything down and have the key FOB kept away from the car, and know if the amp ever actually turns off. About 90 seconds after you shut off the car and walk away with the FOB, the speaker signal dies and shuts off the amp. Thank god.**
2015 Mustang GT Fastback: I wanted a bit more bass out of my stereo system. I have the stock subwoofer, and it's fine, but I wanted a bit more. Options seemed somewhat limited so I decided to build my own. I wasn't willing to give up too much trunk space (my days of huge trunk sub boxes and dual 12's/15's are behind me) and since I really like the punch of a 10, I built my first ever fiberglass speaker box to fit in the corner of the trunk. It was surprising simple. A bit time consuming because you have to give the resin time between steps to dry, but all in all I think my time spent on it was fairly reasonable given the result.
Parts List:
10" subwoofer: Alpine SWS10D4 (dual voice coil) - $90
10" speaker grille: Alpine KTE-10G - $35
Amplifier: Alpine MRV-M500 - $131
Remote Bass Level Knob: Alpine RUX-KNOB - $20
Fiberglass Resin: 3M 20124 All Purpose Fiberglass Resin, 1 Gallon - $49
Fiberglass Cloth - $25
4 AWG Wire: 20' battery cable - $75
Fuse holder: AGU Fuse Holder - $15
Misc. wire ends/shrink wrap - $15
Speaker wire: 12 AWG - $20
Carpet: "Matching" from uphostry shop - $35
Total: $510
I compared this to the JL Audio 94617 for $720.... but you still had to buy the amp, wiring, etc. In the end I'm happy with the cost/result of my setup.
I removed the interior driver side carpet of the trunk. It's fairly straight forward if you have the right tools. This molded piece of carpet was used as the mold for the box.
The entire interior of the molded piece was lined with blue painters tape. This and other similar videos can walk you through the steps of how to build a fiberglass box:
[ame]
If you can find a bond breaker between the tape and your fiberglass that makes the tape easier to remove from the box later, that would be great. Perhaps cellophane? I didn't know of anything to use, so my box looks a little "MEH" on the sides because the tape stuck to the fiberglass resin, but it isn't usually visible, so no big deal.
Power: I ran the power line from the battery through the firewall. If you remove the battery and the battery box, there's easy access to the firewall to drill a hole and USING A GROMMET, penetrate the wall and run the cable down the passenger side of the vehicle. Just make sure you don't drill into anything important. I used an existing ground point at the rear of the vehicle where all the tail lights ground to the body.
Signal/Remote: I tapped into the rear speaker cables behind the rear seat to get the signal as well as the remote turn on for the amplifier (the Alpine amp turns on and off when it senses a signal coming into the high inputs). It seems to work well.
Amp: The amp is installed in wheel well because I don't have the spare. I'm running it at 2 ohms through the dual voice coil subwoofer.
Because I made the box for the driver side, I was able to keep the stock 8" subwoofer in place. Attached photos show the system installed. This thing sounds great. I tested it out with the song "Turn Down for What" by DJ Snake and Lil Jon, and it's REEEEAALLLL nice. Low, loud, and almost obnoxious. Thank god for that bass knob so I can adjust it from the driver seat...
2015 Mustang GT Fastback: I wanted a bit more bass out of my stereo system. I have the stock subwoofer, and it's fine, but I wanted a bit more. Options seemed somewhat limited so I decided to build my own. I wasn't willing to give up too much trunk space (my days of huge trunk sub boxes and dual 12's/15's are behind me) and since I really like the punch of a 10, I built my first ever fiberglass speaker box to fit in the corner of the trunk. It was surprising simple. A bit time consuming because you have to give the resin time between steps to dry, but all in all I think my time spent on it was fairly reasonable given the result.
Parts List:
10" subwoofer: Alpine SWS10D4 (dual voice coil) - $90
10" speaker grille: Alpine KTE-10G - $35
Amplifier: Alpine MRV-M500 - $131
Remote Bass Level Knob: Alpine RUX-KNOB - $20
Fiberglass Resin: 3M 20124 All Purpose Fiberglass Resin, 1 Gallon - $49
Fiberglass Cloth - $25
4 AWG Wire: 20' battery cable - $75
Fuse holder: AGU Fuse Holder - $15
Misc. wire ends/shrink wrap - $15
Speaker wire: 12 AWG - $20
Carpet: "Matching" from uphostry shop - $35
Total: $510
I compared this to the JL Audio 94617 for $720.... but you still had to buy the amp, wiring, etc. In the end I'm happy with the cost/result of my setup.
I removed the interior driver side carpet of the trunk. It's fairly straight forward if you have the right tools. This molded piece of carpet was used as the mold for the box.
The entire interior of the molded piece was lined with blue painters tape. This and other similar videos can walk you through the steps of how to build a fiberglass box:
[ame]
If you can find a bond breaker between the tape and your fiberglass that makes the tape easier to remove from the box later, that would be great. Perhaps cellophane? I didn't know of anything to use, so my box looks a little "MEH" on the sides because the tape stuck to the fiberglass resin, but it isn't usually visible, so no big deal.
Power: I ran the power line from the battery through the firewall. If you remove the battery and the battery box, there's easy access to the firewall to drill a hole and USING A GROMMET, penetrate the wall and run the cable down the passenger side of the vehicle. Just make sure you don't drill into anything important. I used an existing ground point at the rear of the vehicle where all the tail lights ground to the body.
Signal/Remote: I tapped into the rear speaker cables behind the rear seat to get the signal as well as the remote turn on for the amplifier (the Alpine amp turns on and off when it senses a signal coming into the high inputs). It seems to work well.
Amp: The amp is installed in wheel well because I don't have the spare. I'm running it at 2 ohms through the dual voice coil subwoofer.
Because I made the box for the driver side, I was able to keep the stock 8" subwoofer in place. Attached photos show the system installed. This thing sounds great. I tested it out with the song "Turn Down for What" by DJ Snake and Lil Jon, and it's REEEEAALLLL nice. Low, loud, and almost obnoxious. Thank god for that bass knob so I can adjust it from the driver seat...
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