Subframe issues

[Houdinii_5.0]

A few weeks ago I put stock springs back on the rear to fit a 315/50/17. Everything was lined up fine and tire poke matched on each side. I went and got an alignment and had them 0 out camber on the rear and get everything else within spec. I noticed when I got home that now the driver side rear tire sticks out probably 3/4” more than the passenger. I guess I’m confused how it could go from perfect before to that far off. Would I need to get the subframe alignment kit and then go back to have another alignment done?

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[GTP]

I suppose if they "stood up" the driver side wheel it could make it look that way.
Park on really level surface and put a magnetic angle gauge on your rear rotors. These gauges are available at the high-end woodworking stores, maybe big-box improvement stores, or on eBay for ~$12.

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

I suppose if they "stood up" the driver side wheel it could make it look that way.
Park on really level surface and put a magnetic angle gauge on your rear rotors. These gauges are available at the high-end woodworking stores, maybe big-box improvement stores, or on eBay for ~$12.

Yeah I posted on another group and had lots of people saying it’s because the camber isn’t matched up on both sides. The rear is at +0.4 on drivers side and -.02 on passenger. I didn’t realize that would cause such a drastic difference. The car drives fine it just bothers me looks wise.

 

[GTP]

When you told them to "0 out camber on the rear and get everything else within spec" do you think they took it literally and that you wanted zero rear camber? Because the OEM camber is around -1.5 degrees...

 

[Houdinii_5.0]

When you told them to "0 out camber on the rear and get everything else within spec" do you think they took it literally and that you wanted zero rear camber? Because the OEM camber is around -1.5 degrees...

I want the camber at 0 because the cars only used for drag racing. 0 should give the tire maximum contact patch.

 

[GTP]

Ah. Well then, onto your subframe alignment. Although it's a small hassle, you could remove one big blue bolt at a time and shine a flashlight into each hole in succession. It's tricky to line up the light and your eyesight just right, but you can gauge just how concentric are the two holes, i.e. subframe and threaded hole.

From what I've heard the BMR alignment dowels fit looser than Steeda's (a good thing), and I recommend dry graphite on the outside of each dowel prior to installing.

 

[WD Pro]

Ah. Well then, onto your subframe alignment. Although it's a small hassle, you could remove one big blue bolt at a time and shine a flashlight into each hole in succession. It's tricky to line up the light and your eyesight just right, but you can gauge just how concentric are the two holes, i.e. subframe and threaded hole.

Not my car, but here’s what you will be looking at :

WD

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