Sub install with pix and shopping list

[ChiknNutz]

As many can attest, the 9-speaker Shaker system sans sub is just that...subpar. First off, I discovered that several of the stock speakers were trash, literally...as in had fallen apart. I went ahead and bought all new speakers at once and replaced a few here and there. So far, I have replaced all but the pillar tweeters with Infinity Reference speakers. While installing the sub, I replaced the rear shelf speakers as well given I had so much of the interior apart at the time. That certainly helped immensely but the bottom end is just so lacking. So I decided to add a sub to round out the bottom end. I was initially going to go with a forward firing as I wanted the most inconspicuous installation, but went with a rear firing single 10" after reading several articles on the particular sound I was going for (tight, clean bass and not boomy). Here is my shopping list after several iterations:

Manufacturer: Description

AudioControl: LC2i PRO 2 Channel Line Output Converter
FUNCONECT: Battery Terminal Connectors, 12-Way Distribution Block
Bbox: 10-inch Heavy-Duty Steel Black Bar Grill
Plug N Play Kits: KIT 10 high level/speaker level input Harness
Polk Audio: PAD1000.1 800w RMS @ 2-ohm mono amp
Rockville: RWK4CU 4 AWG amplifier wiring kit
Rockville: W10K9D4 V2 10" subwoofer (wired @ 2 ohms)
Rockville: RTR032 3 Foot 2 Channel Twisted Pair RCA Cable
ZEnclosures: 1-10" Subwoofer Box w/Amp Rack (Sealed, rear firing / 0.87 CF / 9.37" cutout dia.)

I initially removed the battery and box but discovered I didn't need to do that as I ran the new positive cable thru the grommet in the inside of the PS fender well. I found this was still kind of a bitch as you need to make room for the cable. I accomplished this by *carefully* using a large screwdriver to push the existing wire bundle towards the center of the car while pushing the new cable thru the grommet (after cutting off the nipple there).

The OEM positive battery clamp has no provision for adding another cable so I bought this set off Amazon (only need the positive, but cheaper in the set). I cut off the OEM clamp, leaving enough to drill a hole to attach to the new clamp.

After removing the necessary interior panels and opening up the existing plastic cable conduit adjacent to the doors, run the new positive cable down the passenger side. Secure with zip ties.

Repeat wire runs on driver's side. This includes the new Plug N Play harness and the remote sub knob. I grounded near one of the rear seat brackets.

Existing garbage deck shelf speakers.

Install the new sub in the sub box. This thing is f'n heavy, was surprised...guessing it weighs around 20 pounds alone.

Install LC2i and Polk amp on amp rack area of the sub box, wire up as much as possible before installing in the car to avoid crawling around in that cramped space.

Box installed in trunk, secured with homemade sheet metal brackets.

Everything wired up and ready to roll. I did move the RCAs from the "Main Output" to the "Bass Output" after realizing my mistake.

View from the rear, nice clean install. Really like these custom Zenclosure boxes.

After installing, I had to mess with all the settings on both the LC2i and the amp, but am satisfied so far. The sound is really complete now, with what I consider a tasteful amount of bass. You can now hear and feel the bass guitar and kick drum, that was almost non-existent before.

Sponsored

 

[Deleted member 54783]

I also went with a rear-facing 10”, in my case an Alpine with its box having Velcro on the bottom that wInds up adhering very securely to the trunk deck carpet mat while allowing me to remove it when I need the space. Having a rag-top, my sub is pretty useless when the top is down

i wound up killing off the dash center speaker, and the rear coax speakers, as I considered theim as not adding value. and put in, K2 Focal component speakers driven by a helix four C amp fed from a Rockford Maestro DSP1 that integrates to the stock head unit with the Rockford iDataLink..

I also had to do a lot of deadening — doors, floor, hood, trunk, etc. — and replacEd a lot of interior panel clips to better isolate the cabin…as much as one can do with a convertible

I couldn’t be happier It seems that you are also a guy who likes his music, and you are clearly more handier than myself (had my audio professionally installed)

MY MODS

POWERTRAIN

1. Roush 2.3 Supercharger
2. 82mm pulley (replaces stock 85mm)
3. Brass IAT
4. JMS FuelMax BAP with accelerator pedal sensor and remote voltage add contro
5. Injector Dynamics ID1050x Injectors
6. NGK (6510) LTR71X-11 Iridium IX spark plugs (0.28 gap)
7. Lund tune (680 HP @ wheels per Dyno @ Gearhead Fabrications Jensen Beach, FL)

SUSPENSION, CHASSIS, BRAKES, WHEELS & TIRES

1. Ford Performance Track Handling Kit (M-FR3A-M8A)
2. Steeda Front Control Arms Lateral Links w/ Extended Ball Joint (555-4909)
3. Steeda Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (555-8133)
4. BMR Caster/Camber Plates (CP001)
5. BMR Front Subframe 4-Point Chassis brace (CB006)
6. Schroop Upper Strut Tower Brace (clears SC)
7. BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit Level 1 (CB010).
8. BMR Rear Cradle Bushings (BK048) -- DELRIN
9. BMR Rear Vertical Links (TCA046). #AM. -- DELRIN
10. BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Adjustable Camber Links (UCA762)
11. BMR Rear Control Arm Bearing Kit (BK055) #AM
12. BMR Rear Camber Adjustment Lockout Kit (WAK761)
13. BMR has Adjustable Toe Rods (TR005)
14. BMR Sway Bar End Link he Kit Set of 4 (ELK012)
15. GT350R Brake Kit (black calipers)
16. APEX EC-7 (ET40) 19" X 10" Flow-Formed wheels
17. 285/35RZ19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires

MISCELLANEOUS

1. RTR Grill
2. Grill snorkel for CAI
3. UPR Catch Can (Roush SC version)
4. UPR Crank Case Breather
5. Magnaflo Tru-X Resonator Delete
6. Ford Performance by Borla Axle Back Touring Exhaust
7. Ford Mustang Digital Instrument Cluster (2018-2023)

DEFENSES

1. ALP Priority Laser Jammers
2. Escort Max 360 built-in radar
3. Blackvue DR900X 2CH IR dash cam with park mode (batteries) & LTE connectivity/cloud auto-upload/storage

AUDIO

1. iDatalink Maestro adapter (APIM/SYNC to DSP)
2. Rockford Fosgate DSR1 DSP
3. Helix 4 amplifier
4. Focal K2 Component speakers
5. Alpine 10” Type-R Subwoofer in custom rear-facing trunk box

 

[Bassackwards]

Why is your sub useless with the top down? Mine thumps hard at 80 mph!

 

[Deleted member 54783]

Why is your sub useless with the top down? Mine thumps hard at 80 mph!

Perhaps it come down to different sensibilities? In my case I value fidelity much more than loudness. Many of my friends are the opposite.

 

[Bassackwards]

Perhaps you have a small sub and not enough power? Mine feels like it can interfere with your heartbeat

 

[Deleted member 54783]

Perhaps you have a small sub and not enough power? Mine feels like it can interfere with your heartbeat

I have an Alpine model ALP-RW10D2 10" dual 2 ohm Type-R with RMS 750 watts and peak 2250 watts. This is being driven by a Rockford Fosgate model ROC-R2750X1 amp for which I have an independent volume control. I have found this to be plenty loud and, more importantly, to provide very good fidelity. However, when I have the top down and there are same-frequency ambient noises present I hear plenty of thump but the fidelity suffers. WIth this, I should also mention that I am 65 years old and it is a fact that many people my age develop difficulty filtering out ambient noises.

Its possible that you just have a more substantial set-up that can somehow punch through same-frequency competing noises such that there is no loss in fidelity? I wouldn't mind knowing what your set-up is so I can discuss with my audio guy to maybe modify that part of my system.

 

[Deleted member 54783]

Perhaps you have a small sub and not enough power? Mine feels like it can interfere with your heartbeat

Do you know anything about the active noise cancelation feature apparantly implemented in some of the S550 Mustang trims? My current understanding is that it is something found only in EcoBoost trims --- not the GTs, but maybe you know something about it as I have seen some posts that it can degrade third-party audio systems

 

[Bassackwards]

I used Forscan to change my head unit settings and abandoned the front center speaker.

My sub is in the factory location and fires sideways. I'm running a 12" RF Punch II with a dedicated 350W powering it.

With the rear side trim panels removed it is pretty open to the trunk around the sides of the seat. An arm will fit through. Your enclosure may be sealing off the space between the trunk and the passenger compartment and preventing some of the sound from reaching the front. Hardtops often have to remove a rear speaker in order to let the sound out. You may have a similar issue.

 

[Bassackwards]

I do notice a very rare very low frequency thud that I suspect comes from the sub. It happens only when driving and it feels like I hit something in the road but nothing is there. It's too rare to even try to troubleshoot.

 

[Deleted member 54783]

I used Forscan to change my head unit settings and abandoned the front center speaker.

My sub is in the factory location and fires sideways. I'm running a 12" RF Punch II with a dedicated 350W powering it.

With the rear side trim panels removed it is pretty open to the trunk around the sides of the seat. An arm will fit through. Your enclosure may be sealing off the space between the trunk and the passenger compartment and preventing some of the sound from reaching the front. Hardtops often have to remove a rear speaker in order to let the sound out. You may have a similar issue.

Here is a picture of how I have the subwoofer box situated in the trunk. The audio technician advised a rear-facing box with space to its sides and back to optimize the low frequency sound waves bouncing back around the box to pass through to the cabin.

As with you, we killed off the center speaker, and we also killed off the rear coaxial speakers as we saw little to no value in purchasing replacement speakers to match up with the Focal K3 woofer/mid-range/tweeter component speakers installed in the front. Also, I never carry human passengers in the back but frequently have my dog there, who I would not want to subject to those coaxial speakers.

I've included a picture of the spare tire-well "audio rack", which has all the components except for the Rockford DSP1 which needed to be up front to put it in good BlueTooth range for their mobile app. The little box attached to the left side wall is the JMS FuelMax BAP.

...anyway, I think the subwoofer set-up is pretty optimal in terms of its 750 watt output and its installation?

 

[Bassackwards]

You are correct, yours doesn't seal up the trunk and has plenty of room on the sides. What happens if you face it forward?

 

[Deleted member 54783]

My understanding is that facing it rearward is most optimal?

https://audiocurious.com/which-way-to-face-subwoofer-in-trunk/

Sponsored