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Strut brace

Lone Survivor

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I've seen 2 posts about that brace; one saying it DOES fit and the other saying it DOESN'T! :lol:
I know WTF!! Same as the 20mm spacers and 23mm spacers, I've no idea what'll fit that I've bought, I should really just stick with, erm......stickers :lol:
 

Billca

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I have fitted the ford racing one I got from usa and it fit straight on
looks good too
I've bought the ford racing one as well (M-20201-M) to fit the GT and Ecoboost, but I don't have a mustang to try it on yet. Would you be able to take a few photos showing how the tower brace fits around the RHD K brace?
 
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slowhand99

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[MENTION=10893]David@Steeda[/MENTION]

This is the size of the area that would need taking out/grinding down to clear the K-brace, basically one quarter of that connection:

That's a great pic, thanks. It does look from that, as if the OEM GT brace might fit. [MENTION=12268]mkforks[/MENTION] can you help with a pic of yours?
$_57.webp
 

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Ericc B

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Here's my STB from Schropp in Germany. I didn't take any pics from underneath but the parts that go over the towers are milled to accomodate for the K-brace perfectly.







 
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Centurion07

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That^. ;)

I did see that brace on the other thread but as Slow has pointed out; it fits LHD perfectly as does the Steeda one.

For some reason the K-brace on our RHD cars is a bit different to the LHD ones. :(
 

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Gibbo205

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Erm, just my tuppence worth, but if it were me, I wouldn't fit this if I had to use spacers, that's a part that's not designed for our cars, it's a bit like the spacer thing, cut the stock studs etc.

Your car mate, but either money back or in the bin with it.
I agree on the strut brace.

But cutting studs past where the nut has tightened would do no harm. Racing teams go over a race car chopping any bolts where thread is showing to save weight. No safety risk at all as long as the nut is fully on with a thread or two visible.

You go over an entire car doing this you'd be surprised at how many kilos or un-used bolt it mounts up too and on a race car every kilo counts. :D
 

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Yeah, as an engineer I know that a full nut plus a few pitches is ideal. What wasn't clear at the time was how much shortening of the stud was going on to fit the spacers.
 
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Centurion07

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None, for the strut brace.

The Steeda strut brace sits on top of the K-brace thereby leaving a gap between it and the car where the K-brace doesn't continue as far as the strut brace. The spacers are purely to fill that gap and since they're made of delrin are quite up to the job.

That said, I do like the engineering on that Schropp brace.
 

Gibbo205

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Yeah, as an engineer I know that a full nut plus a few pitches is ideal. What wasn't clear at the time was how much shortening of the stud was going on to fit the spacers.
You can safely take 10mm off, but bear in mind if you stop using the spacers in the future, new wheels maybe, you will need to buy new studs. :)
 

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10mm, I may just do that mod for the 20mm spacers, or put 20's on the rear at least and 23's on the front, I've got a fair selection of sizes now :lol: not planning any change in wheels, so all good there.

Back on topic, I'll get my FRPP strut modified like in the Oz thread, to fit. There's enough 'beef' on that to cope with any stress after modifying.
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