Strongest motor for approx 5k?

[evo8904]

Yes I meant Manley.
I know the alluminator has the Mahle pistons which are evidently weaker .
I think they are a 4032-alloy that are supposed to be quieter .
Definitely going to use the Manley in the 5.2 build .

Yeah, there are some advantages to 4032 alloy pistons for DD and NA cars. 4032 pistons allow you to have tighter tolerances which reduce piston slap. However, for boosted applications and pushing the limits. You need 2618 alloy pistons. I believe that mahle does make some pistons that are 2618 but I still wouldn't have them. Sorry about your block bro.

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[olaosunt]

Yeah, there are some advantages to 4032 alloy pistons for DD and NA cars. 4032 pistons allow you to have tighter tolerances which reduce piston slap. However, for boosted applications and pushing the limits. You need 2618 alloy pistons. I believe that mahle does make some pistons that are 2618 but I still wouldn't have them. Sorry about your block bro.

Well I decided to bite the bullet and ordered the 1500 MMR short block. Bored to 5.2/sleeved/I beams.I think anything less and I would be constantly worrying and second guessing . I might as well do it right the first time which may be more expensive upfront but invariably cheaper than having to redo it right a second time lol.
The long block will be completed with GT 350 heads .I have 4-5weeks(time quoted for build ) to decides on cams -stock/GT 350 or turbo cams depending on tuner preference and what is left in my budget .
At least I get not only a stronger engine but a different "almost GT 350 engine "-just way stronger !!

Whatever I decide there will be "plenty of room to grow into " as I doubt the twin 55's even with heads and cams can even get close to the limit of the block

I am hoping I can recoup some cash by selling off parts of the alluminator or putting it back together with better pistons and selling as a complete long block .

I won't know the extent of the damage till my buddy picks up the car in a few weeks when he is done with the other build .

May be it was just the Mahle pistons but I may have to consider fueling .
I had Sai Li 's system and the logs looked good up to the 960 rwhp it made on the dyno .
The logs of all my passes have looked good but unfortunately I did not log the ill fated pass . I had it set to low boost and saw a peak of 14.3 per my controller at the end of the pass.
A local buddy did have problems with his kit after a pump went bad and could not get a replacement ( not sure they are still making the pumps )
I am praoably going to upgrade the fuel system to match the blocks potential .

 

[doodguy]

Well I decided to bite the bullet and ordered the 1500 MMR short block. Bored to 5.2/sleeved/I beams.I think anything less and I would be constantly worrying and second guessing . I might as well do it right the first time which may be more expensive upfront but invariably cheaper than having to redo it right a second time lol.
The long block will be completed with GT 350 heads .I have 4-5weeks(time quoted for build ) to decides on cams -stock/GT 350 or turbo cams depending on tuner preference and what is left in my budget .
At least I get not only a stronger engine but a different "almost GT 350 engine "-just way stronger !!

Whatever I decide there will be "plenty of room to grow into " as I doubt the twin 55's even with heads and cams can even get close to the limit of the block

I am hoping I can recoup some cash by selling off parts of the alluminator or putting it back together with better pistons and selling as a complete long block .

I won't know the extent of the damage till my buddy picks up the car in a few weeks when he is done with the other build .

May be it was just the Mahle pistons but I may have to consider fueling .
I had Sai Li 's system and the logs looked good up to the 960 rwhp it made on the dyno .
The logs of all my passes have looked good but unfortunately I did not log the ill fated pass . I had it set to low boost and saw a peak of 14.3 per my controller at the end of the pass.
A local buddy did have problems with his kit after a pump went bad and could not get a replacement ( not sure they are still making the pumps )
I am praoably going to upgrade the fuel system to match the blocks potential .

Please keep us posted! I'm currently having my block built with mahle pistons. Hope the pistons weren't your issue. Sorry to hear about this.

 

[olaosunt]

MMR sleeved 5.2 is being assembled with GT 350 heads,upgraded valve springs and stock cams.

I will be reusing billet OPG/CG off the eliminator with new ATI damper .

Also glad I am installing head cooling mod for cylinder 8.

This is the Alluminator block cylinder# 8 piston below:

 

[z06psi]

I am thinking that there is zero chance of installing the MMR head cooling kit with the motor inside the car? I guess pulling the freeze plugs makes it prohibitive.

 

[16MustangVet]

http://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-built-5-0-coyote-short-block/

JPC!!

/thread

 

[olaosunt]

I am thinking that there is zero chance of installing the MMR head cooling kit with the motor inside the car? I guess pulling the freeze plugs makes it prohibitive.

This is courtesy of a thread on SVT-by "Jymbosolice"

I cut and paste it as the link is allowed .MMR head cooling mod install - with engine in car

"Hey everyone, I figured I would post this info up for anyone wanting to do the MMR head cooling mod with the engine in the car. The hoses on the fittings do not need any clamps but they could be used, if you chose to use clamps.

Take your time with this mod as well.

Tools: A lot of wrenches/sockets/stuff like that, RTV, BFH (rubber hammer preferably), and a few screw drivers, a freezer, more coolant, paper towels, Jack, jack stands.

Put the hose onto the fittings then PUT THE FITTINGS IN THE FREEZER AND LET THEM GET COLD OVER NIGHT. This worked out extremely well for me and they fit right in, they were tight - we all like tight, but they went in with a few whacks of a BFH.

1. Take the k member off/lower the engine. Put the jack under the bellhousing or under the oil pan with a block of wood (1.jack, 2.block of wood, 3.oil pan - in that order) You will need to lower the engine. I could not imagine how to get these on without lowering the engine.
-Be careful of all the wiring by the passenger side frame rail and be careful of the front passenger side brake line. Disconnect the radiator hoses as well. Also, there is a GROUND WIRE attached to the back of the drivers side head - be careful of that. I may have missed something but lower the engine slowly and check for any possible snags with the wiring harness or brake lines. Take out the steering shaft bolt too and disconnect that. Use common sense when taking all this out.

2. Lower the transmission - about an inch. TAKE OFF THE SHIFTER bracket BOLTS. The two bolts that hold the shifter bracket to the body. Take those out and let the shifter rest on the driveshaft. This means unscrewing the shift knob too.

3. Now, for this mother F****G (Sorry mods) ground wire right where the MMR fitting bolts to the head. Take that bolt off and throw it the hell away. Let the ground strap hang loose.

4. Beat the shit out of the freeze plugs with a hammer and a screw driver. This will eventually break them free and you can wiggle them out of the block with a pair of pliers. Also, be careful because an ocean of coolant comes out of the back of the heads. Have fun . Coolant smells terrible as well.

5. Clean the surface of the freeze plug hole with a scotch brite pad and check for any nicks or anything in the hole. When you get a smooth/clean surface - move on.

6. Take the fittings out of the freezer and Apply rtv to the fittings. This will allow the fittings to get an air-tight seal to the cylinder heads, thus creating no opportunities for leaks. you need to DO THIS STEP QUICKLY because they will warm up. A light coating of RTV should work well.

7. DO THIS STEP QUICKLY. Align the fittings with the block and whack them in. Also, make sure you have the bolt in the hole of the fitting to help align the fitting with the threaded part of the block. They are a mother effer to try to get back out. The passenger side head has a sensor right next to the freeze plug hole. Bend that wire out of the way and align the fitting with the block and whack away - making sure the hole is lined up so you can get the bolt in. You could also put the ground wire (Back of the drivers side head) under the hole in the fitting so you can use the bolt that secures the fitting down to the head to also secure the ground wire down or you can put it on top of that hole - your choice either way it needs to be secured to the cylinder head.

8. After you finish whacking them in - sealed to the cylinder head, you are done. High-5 yourself because that was a pain in the ass.

9. Reinstall everything that you took off or disconnected.

10. Fill up with coolant and check for leaks. If you have a leak, in the back of the cylinder head, you are screwed. Trust me, you are screwed. The fittings are near impossible to get off of the cylinder head.


Hope this helps. I wrote this in 5 minutes so I may have missed something. And obviously you need a jack/jack stands. You need to get the car way up in the air. And obviously you need to raise the car up first. I left out the "use of common sense" parts of this install.

Anyone can add anything. This is designed to help anyone wanting to do this mod. It is not as easy as people may think it is.

 

[z06psi]

That sounds like a lot of fun. :tsk:

 

[olaosunt]

Lol
No thanks??
Just trying to help bro.

 

[z06psi]

Yes Thank you but damn. You would almost be better off pulling the engine. Lol

 

[sigintel]

Lol
No thanks??
Just trying to help bro.

Thanks.. think everyone was just in awe thinkn about that.
Im struggling with heat issues and looking at #8. If you are going above 700 rwhp for extended flogging or track use in Texas, the S550 has a poorly vented engine bay. 800-1000 for single 1/4 runs or brief pulls on highway, sure its ok.

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