- Air chisel and beat on it at an angle (Carefully) GL dude sucks it turned into a pain like this....
Try LOWES/HomeDepot or a TrueValue they should have one of the 3. Id personally go with the extractor first not sure if the depth the socket would have to be is going to make this method possible though..
That sucks. Was never a fan of the nuts on the ones I had on my '15, but they were necessary for it to work. What did you torque them down to?
I can't remember what the size was, but you could try whacking on the next-lowest size socket (especially if you swap from English to metric or vice-versa) to get it on there and then try loosening it.
Not sure about those extractors. The extractor part probably would fit, but spacers are deep enough that the other part that fits onto your ratchet/breaker bar might not. They don't list the actual dimensions to check. I'd try to find an extractor with a much longer neck so you don't run into that problem.
Never use an impact gun on those. Just asking for trouble :-\ I mean maybe for taking up the slack but I'd never use one on those for tightening/removing. Somebody had that same thing happen to them using an air-gun in a thread here....maybe 3 or so years ago?
Just saw this.
Put a shallow nut on top of the stripped nut.
Then put another spacer or wheel back on.
When you torque the lug nuts of the wheel you put back on, the nut sandwiched in between will forge down a mil or two into the cheap soft aluminum space. It will also push the stud a hair back thru the hub.
Remove wheel (or other spacer) and check to see if nut is loose. If not, use large punch and hammer on back of hub to push stud back forward a mil or two. The nut should be able to be spun off.
if not, repeat pushing stud back into hub.
Dremel cutoff wheel the head of stud.
Pull stud completely thru forward.
Once spacer is free, remove all the crap studs from spacer, aluminum too soft and those studs are junk. Drill out the AL spacer holes w harbor freight deming bit.
Then get ARP $$ or Dorman $ grade 12.9 studs in longer length to replace stock studs.
remove remaining stock studs w ball joint tool (harbor freight). And install longer ones w Lisle stud install tool (basically a ballbearing washer) (Amazon).
Put spacers w larger holes over long studs.
Put wheels on. drink beer.
if you use a sledgehammer on it, just plan on replacing the whole hub anyway since the wheel bearing will likely fail from sledgedamage. Wheel bearing is forged into hub unitized assembly.