Street/Strip Boosted Stick Car suspension ideas?

[15Oxford5oh]

Currently looking for a bit of feedback on what would be the next step in my suspension to get the car to hook up better and stay planted. I've just put a blower on the car and am trying to now not only fight traction but also keep the car straight. Currently the suspension is only BMR Drag Springs. Rest of the mods are in the description. Car will see some weekend play and also a couple trips to mexico. Would like to of course minimize NVH if possible. Was looking into Lethal's BMR "Bread and Butter Package" to start, I do also have a Bias Ply Sticky M/T when it's time to run the car. Are the most major concerns here currently: Cradle Lockout, Vertical Links, and a Set of solid axels? Should this be a solid start as to keeping the car more planted and also straight?

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[AAD Performance]

Thats a good start, youll want to reduce your negative camber though, especially with a sticky tire and soft spring. Your car will squat under acceleration incresing negative camber.Id throw in some adjustable camber arms to correct that, so you start closer to zero. (Positive for launching at the strip)

https://aadperformance.com/collections/mustang/products/2015-mustang-s550-rear-camber-teailing-arm

 

[15Oxford5oh]

Thats a good start, youll want to reduce your negative camber though, especially with a sticky tire and soft spring. Your car will squat under acceleration incresing negative camber.Id throw in some adjustable camber arms to correct that, so you start closer to zero. (Positive for launching at the strip)

https://aadperformance.com/collections/mustang/products/2015-mustang-s550-rear-camber-teailing-arm

How would this effect daily driving of the car? Most likely would occasionally see the track, as far as bang for buck would this be the best mod for both paired with the others mentioned? Thanks

 

[AAD Performance]

How would this effect daily driving of the car? Most likely would occasionally see the track, as far as bang for buck would this be the best mod for both paired with the others mentioned? Thanks

You wouldn't want to daily drive with positive camber, but half a degree negative or so would be just fine while helping you out in a situation where you have to take someone to gapplebees in mexico.

Our kits are unique in the market, where ours have repeatable adjustments with a tab system. so you could set up your alignment for street, then just pull the tires, swap tabs, and be ready for a drag strip. All while knowing your alignment is going to be repeatable back and fourth. Ours dont increase NVH either.

Your performance increase doesnt come from the camber arm itself, its choice of bushing/bearing design in the ends, and the ability to set your alignment.

Id recommend locking the cradle out, and camber arms to start. If you really get serious at the track then do vertical links.

-Graham

 

[15Oxford5oh]

Good info, i'll have a look into it.

 

[Kennysum1]

Grab the steeda stop the hop kit. Or BMR both are fine. Viking Crusader dual adjustable shocks for the front and rear. Remove the front sway bar. Chassis lockout. Start at like a 12/12 on the shocks and adjust until you start hooking.

Also if you do all of that and still can't hook you don't have enough tire for your HP levels. Your still on 93, no meth and 1050x injectors. So you can't be over 850 or so. Unless you have a super aggressive tune for that setup. So really the most bang for your buck by far would be the Steeda stop the hop kit.

Look into the rest once you go up higher.

 

[15Oxford5oh]

Grab the steeda stop the hop kit. Or BMR both are fine. Viking Crusader dual adjustable shocks for the front and rear. Remove the front sway bar. Chassis lockout. Start at like a 12/12 on the shocks and adjust until you start hooking.

Also if you do all of that and still can't hook you don't have enough tire for your HP levels. Your still on 93, no meth and 1050x injectors. So you can't be over 850 or so. Unless you have a super aggressive tune for that setup. So really the most bang for your buck by far would be the Steeda stop the hop kit.

Look into the rest once you go up higher.

Yea I've had my eyes set on both systems for a while now looks like either of them will get the job done. Car as it sits I would guestimate 680-720 more or less, but will see a fuel system and E soon. I'm thinking you can't really overkill on a suspension no matter the power. So I'd likely start with one of these setups and look at shocks while I'm in there. How is your NVH if you have either kit?

 

[Kennysum1]

Yea I've had my eyes set on both systems for a while now looks like either of them will get the job done. Car as it sits I would guestimate 680-720 more or less, but will see a fuel system and E soon. I'm thinking you can't really overkill on a suspension no matter the power. So I'd likely start with one of these setups and look at shocks while I'm in there. How is your NVH if you have either kit?

I have all of the things I listed. I went with BMR because I already had BMR springs and a chassis lockout.

I personally don't think my NVH is bad* Disclaimer: All things considered

It's a 1000+ hp car setup to drag race. It's not going to be a great ride compared to a normal car. I don't have kids and my girlfriend loves riding in the car so I would say for what it is it drives amazing. I still take it out occasionally to go out to eat and stuff. It's not on full skinnies and has a full interior. I did not gut it or remove the AC etc lol. It still has heated and cooled seats.

But it's designed to look and be a sleeper. The Trans brake is in the middle console, not some red button on my steering wheel. 2step is in the glove box.

 

[15Oxford5oh]

I have all of the things I listed. I went with BMR because I already had BMR springs and a chassis lockout.

I personally don't think my NVH is bad* Disclaimer: All things considered

It's a 1000+ hp car setup to drag race. It's not going to be a great ride compared to a normal car. I don't have kids and my girlfriend loves riding in the car so I would say for what it is it drives amazing. I still take it out occasionally to go out to eat and stuff. It's not on full skinnies and has a full interior. I did not gut it or remove the AC etc lol. It still has heated and cooled seats.

But it's designed to look and be a sleeper. The Trans brake is in the middle console, not some red button on my steering wheel. 2step is in the glove box.

Basically the route that I am going. Car is on 20's 3/4 out of the year. Then I put my dragpack on in cooler months (Central Florida) would never gut the car and has same premium functions as you. Maybe will see 900+ one day but not trying to break records, just want a comfortable low 10sec high 9 grocery getter. That'll be enough for me.... for now.

 

[Kennysum1]

Basically the route that I am going. Car is on 20's 3/4 out of the year. Then I put my dragpack on in cooler months (Central Florida) would never gut the car and has same premium functions as you. Maybe will see 900+ one day but not trying to break records, just want a comfortable low 10sec high 9 grocery getter. That'll be enough for me.... for now.

What wheels and tires are you running on your drag setup?

Honestly at that power level you only need a stop the hop kit and the right tire setup and you should hook easily, especially on a prepped surface.

 

[15Oxford5oh]

What wheels and tires are you running on your drag setup?

Honestly at that power level you only need a stop the hop kit and the right tire setup and you should hook easily, especially on a prepped surface.

I have a VMS setup. Skinnies up front and MT ET BIAS PLY tires out back, I had no issues at the track hooking up or the street. But since it's been boosted I have not put the dragpack back on. Traction on street tires is almost obsolete though. I just wanted to be sure that I am taking care of the suspension while the car is being built, don't want to neglect it nor do I want to point towards trees If i decide a saturday night race is in place.

 

[Kennysum1]

O you are running an actual drag slick. You don't need any suspension mods at that power level. Just put those back on and warm them up right and let it rip.

You are fine for now. I thought you were running something like I am. A 17 inch Mickey Thompson Street R. They are almost slicks but not the same. I leave them on year round and drive it anywhere.

 

[15Oxford5oh]

O you are running an actual drag slick. You don't need any suspension mods at that power level. Just put those back on and warm them up right and let it rip.

You are fine for now. I thought you were running something like I am. A 17 inch Mickey Thompson Street R. They are almost slicks but not the same. I leave them on year round and drive it anywhere.

It's technically a D.O.T approved street tire, but yes definitely a softer compound than your ET Street R. The sidewall will wrinkle like a legitimate slick. And you don't think the car would benefit from having suspension mods at all at this power level and future? Even for a boosted car from a parts and longevity perspective, I would imagine they help I always thought wheel hop one of the biggest catalyst to broken parts?

 

[Kennysum1]

It's technically a D.O.T approved street tire, but yes definitely a softer compound than your ET Street R. The sidewall will wrinkle like a legitimate slick. And you don't think the car would benefit from having suspension mods at all at this power level and future? Even for a boosted car from a parts and longevity perspective, I would imagine they help I always thought wheel hop one of the biggest catalyst to broken parts?

O yea if you are getting wheel hop I would for sure say grab stop the hop kit. But with that setup and power level I would wager you will be fine as long as you don't leave red lined lol

As long as you are not getting any wheel hop you are not going to be any additional wear and tear on the parts. Like I said it should hook imo

 

[15Oxford5oh]

O yea if you are getting wheel hop I would for sure say grab stop the hop kit. But with that setup and power level I would wager you will be fine as long as you don't leave red lined lol

As long as you are not getting any wheel hop you are not going to be any additional wear and tear on the parts. Like I said it should hook imo

Appreciate the insight! I'll look into BMR or UPR and get the tires warm, see where i'm at from there.

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