Stock HID vs Osram HID Cool Blue boost

[Mrzero]

Just swapped out the HID bulbs and wanted show you guys the difference. Not a huge difference but the whiter light does improve road visibility for me. Stock is passenger side.

Sponsored

 

[FreePenguin]

Another thing that will help keep them nice and bright is to put some ceramic coating on the headlights. or ppf.

 

[Mrzero]

Good to know, I have PPF.

 

[5.0carlo]

I’ve seen a few threads where people replace the ballast with 35W version from other cars. Supposedly it’s a good upgrade.

 

[jfabes]

I’m surprised that you said there wasn’t big difference. I just did the same thing and it is completely night and day. Biggest difference being the CBB perfectly matches the “fin” leds. No blue at all like all those cheap bulbs, just a very nice white/violet light. Headlight color is now very very close to our other cars with led headlights. I also removed the dimming of the fins so they are bright all the time, great match to the hid bulbs. My housings also have ppf.

 

[FreePenguin]

I feel that manufacturers have these down to pretty close to an perfected art without upping the wattages significantly.

 

[wingnutt]

I feel that manufacturers have these down to pretty close to an perfected art without upping the wattages significantly.

…until you drive behind a good all LED setup!

I had a Focus ST3 with HID and fogs in my last car, then swapped the halogen and fogs in my F150 for Diode Dynamics LEDs.

the swapped F150 would put the ST3 to shame all day, every day

 

[MrBD1348]

I’m surprised that you said there wasn’t big difference. I just did the same thing and it is completely night and day. Biggest difference being the CBB perfectly matches the “fin” leds. No blue at all like all those cheap bulbs, just a very nice white/violet light. Headlight color is now very very close to our other cars with led headlights. I also removed the dimming of the fins so they are bright all the time, great match to the hid bulbs. My housings also have ppf.

That looks really clean! How did you remove the dimming?

 

[jfabes]

It’s really easy. There are two “fin” wires in each headlight connector, one is from the start/stop and the other is from the parking circuit. They connect to two taps in the headlight, a bright tap (start/stop, gray wire) and a dim tap (parking, violet wire). It has nothing to do with the wires, or voltage, or bcm signal, it’s controlled inside the headlight itself.

I simply removed both wires from the oem connector on the back of the headlight and inserted them into a diode “entry”. Then the exit of the diode feeds the bright tap for the “fin” (which is where the gray wire was). You leave the dim tap empty. Diodes allow two power sources to power the same device and power only travels in one direction. So, start/stop and parking always power the bright tap hence they are always bright…driving, parking or headlights on, open/close doors, etc.

these are the diodes I used. One per side. There are others to choose from.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-5630...56b95&pd_rd_wg=CwWPn&pd_rd_i=B00JPINH0S&psc=1

I pulled the oem wires out of the connector and nestled them in the diode, so no cutting of anything. For the exit side, I used a piece of wire and attached an oem style pin (MX150) to it and stuck it in the oem connector. You need one for each side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-MX15...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

since the parking circuit and stop/start circuit are both powering the fins as before, there are no errors from the bcm, and the brighter fins vs the dim has an insignificant effect on the parking circuit load.

Any questions, let me know.

 

[Firsttexan]

DOT is the problem. Euros have active lights can't do it here. The last study I read on lighting concluded that while bluish and white seem to be brighter a slight off white / yellowish is better visibility for the eye.

Nothing more annoying than cheap LEDs like on RAV 4s and other cheap vehicles, and idiots that retrofit them to halogen etc and don't bother aiming them.

Jeep Wranglers being the worst offenders IMO. They lift it, but do not adjust!

 

[dirtwarrior]

It’s really easy. There are two “fin” wires in each headlight connector, one is from the start/stop and the other is from the parking circuit. They connect to two taps in the headlight, a bright tap (start/stop, gray wire) and a dim tap (parking, violet wire). It has nothing to do with the wires, or voltage, or bcm signal, it’s controlled inside the headlight itself.

I simply removed both wires from the oem connector on the back of the headlight and inserted them into a diode “entry”. Then the exit of the diode feeds the bright tap for the “fin” (which is where the gray wire was). You leave the dim tap empty. Diodes allow two power sources to power the same device and power only travels in one direction. So, start/stop and parking always power the bright tap hence they are always bright…driving, parking or headlights on, open/close doors, etc.

these are the diodes I used. One per side. There are others to choose from.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-5630...56b95&pd_rd_wg=CwWPn&pd_rd_i=B00JPINH0S&psc=1

I pulled the oem wires out of the connector and nestled them in the diode, so no cutting of anything. For the exit side, I used a piece of wire and attached an oem style pin (MX150) to it and stuck it in the oem connector. You need one for each side.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-MX15...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

since the parking circuit and stop/start circuit are both powering the fins as before, there are no errors from the bcm, and the brighter fins vs the dim has an insignificant effect on the parking circuit load.

Any questions, let me know.

I will try that

Sponsored