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steeda sway bar end link length adjustment issue

BluePonyGT

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I have the steeda front sway bar installed along with the pro action adjustable shocks/struts and progressive lowering springs. I'm also putting in adjustable front/rear end links.

My problem is the factory front end links are approx. 8 3/4" long. By pre-adjusting the front adjustable end links to that length or anything reasonably longer without going out too far the grease fitting on the joint at the bottom almost contacts the body of the front strut housing (see pics).

Adjusting them long enough to clear this makes them so damn long that there's not enough threads in the housing to consider them strong enough and the sway bar is way out of alignment.

Anyone seen this before? Any ideas on what I should do? Am I being a total dummy? I don't want to lower the car and snap off these grease fittings.
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I have the steeda front sway bar installed along with the pro action adjustable shocks/struts and progressive lowering springs. I'm also putting in adjustable front/rear end links.

My problem is the factory front end links are approx. 8 3/4" long. By pre-adjusting the front adjustable end links to that length or anything reasonably longer without going out too far the grease fitting on the joint at the bottom almost contacts the body of the front strut housing (see pics).

Adjusting them long enough to clear this makes them so damn long that there's not enough threads in the housing to consider them strong enough and the sway bar is way out of alignment.

Anyone seen this before? Any ideas on what I should do? Am I being a total dummy? I don't want to lower the car and snap off these grease fittings.
IMG_3404.JPG
IMG_3405.JPG
Or put it at the softest setting to get started. You have it on the firmest setting right now. I recommend the softest to start off front and rear.
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BluePonyGT

BluePonyGT

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Thanks for the lightening responses, guys.

I've been playing around with various lengths after posting this thread. To clear the housing on the strut I'd have to adjust them out to 9 5/8" - 9 3/4". That sets the angle way off. Factory length - no dice - it's worse. The pic above shows it adjusted to 9 1/4".

The instructions said move it to the stiffest setting if I'm paring it with the swaybar, but given factory length that's a no-go. Also, I never even considered moving it to the inside of the bar. If that doesn't give up anything in terms of strength then I may go that route to keep the stiffness.

BUT I hear what Steeda's saying about initial setting...got a decision to make.
 
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BluePonyGT

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I went with slightly longer than stock length and moved it a hole over from the front. Plenty of clearance, and the angles look right.

Not sure why I was so focused on the stiffest setting. Lets see how this handles and maybe I'll move it out more.
 

Norm Peterson

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Not sure why I was so focused on the stiffest setting.
Like so many things in this hobby . . . if some's good, more's gotta be better, and too much is just enough.

When you have adjustable suspension components (or readily-interchangeable components which would include coilover springs), it's probably best to start out at or closer to full soft and work your way up as you manage to personally identify a reason for doing so. Not because of any 'more has to be better so I'll start there now' thinking.


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BluePonyGT

BluePonyGT

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Agreed. This is exactly what I did:

full.jpg


I went to the mid-stiff setting, but I also have the Steeda rear bar to compensate.
Yep rear bar here as well.

In retrospect it definitely would have been easier to mount them on the inside simply for the fact that these are a pain to torque down to 76 ft. lbs. while holding an 8mm wrench.

I'm also going to remove these straight grease fittings and put in some 90 degree ones later on. Putting grease in them is going to be a royal pain in the butt with them straight like that - especially for the rear links.
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