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Steeda Sport Spring vs FP-Y

TeeLew

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(I was on a plane all day and had to amuse myself some way. It turned out to be this and _Prometheus_.)

1. It's dampers, not dampeners. A dampener would make something wet. A damper is part of a mechanical control system.

2. The 'squishy' is probably your rear subframe bushings doing the Watusy, not the actual suspension. If you replace them or do a lock out lot, it clears the water a bit.

3. Bonded bushings aren't hidden springs; they're intentional ones. Bonded bushings aren't binding, they're deforming in torsion, which is their intended purpose. If a coil spring deflects, it's doing it's job. It's the same with this type of bushing. When F1 does the same basic thing, it's called a 'flexure.'

5. Stock bushings are too soft in the wrong directions and will deflect axially and radially when driving hard, which is bad for camber and toe control. This deflection also slows lateral response. These are their real shortcomings. Having said all this, the reason they are used is because they *reduce* the overall friction in the system which improves. They are not "Binding," which would mean their normal function is causing a severe rate change.

Changing to a monoball or poly suspension points reduces the unwanted camber and toe issues by limiting the deformation, but even the best will add small amounts of friction compared to a bonded bushing. Think of them like individual torsion springs which contribute to the overall stiffness of the suspension Their deformation in this mode is not unwanted or unaccounted for. I may not agree with some of the choices Ford made, but don't think that factors like bushing stiffnesses weren't obsessively considered. They just have completely different design bogies than anyone who is doing anything like track duty.

5a. An easy to see suspension bind situation is in the rear suspension geometry on Fox-bodies.

6. As far as the Steeda dual rates, I think their front spring is the best available for a stock-style spring. I'd consider installing a rear spring conversion which allows the use of standard springs at more suitable rates (Steeda or Mike Maier).

7. The majority of the contribution to harsh ride comes from the rear of the car. Put whatever dampers you want on the car, but if you're running over about 1000 #\in spring, it's not going to ride all that great. This in and of itself may not be a big deal to you, but the problem is that on a street tire, it's going to hurt the ability to put power to the ground.

Another thing is that you're running an HPP like me. With 200# or so less weight on the nose than a GT, our cars have significantly less understeer naturally than a GT due to weight distribution (this is a massively powerful tool). Unless you just really want to bounce around on the top of the road, I don't understand the attraction to a stiffer rear spring (for anyone). It makes ride and handling worse. Stiffer =/= Better

On the RARB, my car came with a 24mm one and I've replaced it with a 20 because that's what it needed. That's with a lot less spring than on the rear spring of the Steeda kit.

At the end of the day I'm trying to help you out. You do you, but you asked for an opinion and there it is.
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sadams930

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(I was on a plane all day and had to amuse myself some way. It turned out to be this and _Prometheus_.)

1. It's dampers, not dampeners. A dampener would make something wet. A damper is part of a mechanical control system.

2. The 'squishy' is probably your rear subframe bushings doing the Watusy, not the actual suspension. If you replace them or do a lock out lot, it clears the water a bit.

3. Bonded bushings aren't hidden springs; they're intentional ones. Bonded bushings aren't binding, they're deforming in torsion, which is their intended purpose. If a coil spring deflects, it's doing it's job. It's the same with this type of bushing. When F1 does the same basic thing, it's called a 'flexure.'

5. Stock bushings are too soft in the wrong directions and will deflect axially and radially when driving hard, which is bad for camber and toe control. This deflection also slows lateral response. These are their real shortcomings. Having said all this, the reason they are used is because they *reduce* the overall friction in the system which improves. They are not "Binding," which would mean their normal function is causing a severe rate change.

Changing to a monoball or poly suspension points reduces the unwanted camber and toe issues by limiting the deformation, but even the best will add small amounts of friction compared to a bonded bushing. Think of them like individual torsion springs which contribute to the overall stiffness of the suspension Their deformation in this mode is not unwanted or unaccounted for. I may not agree with some of the choices Ford made, but don't think that factors like bushing stiffnesses weren't obsessively considered. They just have completely different design bogies than anyone who is doing anything like track duty.

5a. An easy to see suspension bind situation is in the rear suspension geometry on Fox-bodies.

6. As far as the Steeda dual rates, I think their front spring is the best available for a stock-style spring. I'd consider installing a rear spring conversion which allows the use of standard springs at more suitable rates (Steeda or Mike Maier).

7. The majority of the contribution to harsh ride comes from the rear of the car. Put whatever dampers you want on the car, but if you're running over about 1000 #\in spring, it's not going to ride all that great. This in and of itself may not be a big deal to you, but the problem is that on a street tire, it's going to hurt the ability to put power to the ground.

Another thing is that you're running an HPP like me. With 200# or so less weight on the nose than a GT, our cars have significantly less understeer naturally than a GT due to weight distribution (this is a massively powerful tool). Unless you just really want to bounce around on the top of the road, I don't understand the attraction to a stiffer rear spring (for anyone). It makes ride and handling worse. Stiffer =/= Better

On the RARB, my car came with a 24mm one and I've replaced it with a 20 because that's what it needed. That's with a lot less spring than on the rear spring of the Steeda kit.

At the end of the day I'm trying to help you out. You do you, but you asked for an opinion and there it is.
You sound super knowledgeable on this stuff and I am in the middle of sorting out the best options for my setup. I installed all the BMR and Steeda stop the hop and handling goodies, and topped it off with the Steeda dual rates for magneride. I think I made a mistake with this spring. It is far harsher than I wanted for my mostly street driven car. I drive a ton of twisty back roads, and the car now feels like it's driving through a minefield when i'm going down these roads that the car used to handle with ease on the stock PP1 magneride setup. I'm about to switch back to the stock PP1 springs and see how much of the ride harshness is the dual rate springs and how much is all the bushing and lockout work that was just done. I'm hoping it's mostly due to the springs, as I can just go back to stock which felt great on the magneride tbh, or perhaps there is a progressive rate spring out there that would be even better suited than the stock springs for my goals.

What are your thoughts, and do you have any suggestions for springs that would handle bumpy country back roads better than the stock PP1 springs? I don't care about ride height, if the springs are lower, fine. If they are not, that's fine too. I just want to not feel like I'm going to be bounced off the side of the road when I hit corners with bumps in the road.
 

MrMike

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You sound super knowledgeable on this stuff and I am in the middle of sorting out the best options for my setup. I installed all the BMR and Steeda stop the hop and handling goodies, and topped it off with the Steeda dual rates for magneride. I think I made a mistake with this spring. It is far harsher than I wanted for my mostly street driven car. I drive a ton of twisty back roads, and the car now feels like it's driving through a minefield when i'm going down these roads that the car used to handle with ease on the stock PP1 magneride setup. I'm about to switch back to the stock PP1 springs and see how much of the ride harshness is the dual rate springs and how much is all the bushing and lockout work that was just done. I'm hoping it's mostly due to the springs, as I can just go back to stock which felt great on the magneride tbh, or perhaps there is a progressive rate spring out there that would be even better suited than the stock springs for my goals.

What are your thoughts, and do you have any suggestions for springs that would handle bumpy country back roads better than the stock PP1 springs? I don't care about ride height, if the springs are lower, fine. If they are not, that's fine too. I just want to not feel like I'm going to be bounced off the side of the road when I hit corners with bumps in the road.
I realize I'm not the person you replied to, but I'm not sure what your goal was from putting the parts on the car based on your comment of "stock which felt great on the magneride."

Lower ride height is part of what causes harshness, it's amplified from our cars being heavier too. There's many discussion threads on this, but going too low is a mistake from a handling / ride quality balance perspective. It's part of the reason BMR revised their handling springs years ago to not drop so low.

Just for clarification in the discussion, is the Steeda spring you bought 555-8243? Those are a 0.75" drop which isn't much. The rear spring rate looks kind of harsh from at the limit from my perspective, but I don't have experience with magneride.

You should post exactly what BMR and Steeda parts you put on the rear too, might benefit you to have your own thread with a full breakdown if you don't already. Some of those can definitely harshen the ride in the rear of the car.

Edit: Didn't see your other thread before I replied, looks like you're getting plenty of good advice in there.
 
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MFair

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Getting ready to change out the springs and dampeners on my 2020 HPP Ecoboost and I've gotten myself into an "over analyzing" it situation. I've got the FP Track shocks already (got a good deal on them) ... but I'm going back and forth on whether to pair with the FP-Y spring or the Steeda Sport Progressives. The car is a daily driver, and most likely will never see the track ... but I do want better than PP performance (just because). Yeah, I know I'm splitting hairs and either spring is more than fine. Also, I have the Steeda Camber plates ready to install when I decide on the spring.
I've scoured the internet for a comparison of the two springs, but not really finding anything .... I guess they are different enough in nature to not lend to an apples-to-apples comparison. Anyway, just thought I'd reach out for opinions before going forth. Thanks in advance!
I have a 2021 Ecoboost. I installed Steeda Minimum Drop Springs, Steeda Pro-Action Adjust Shocks and Struts, Steeda Billet Upper Shock Mounts, Steeda Adjustable Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit, Steeda Adustable Sway Bar Endlinks, Steeda Camber Plates, and Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit. I’ve never driven a Mustang with the PP 1 kit, but I’ll put mine up against one any day of the week. I absolutely love the way the car handles and with the adjustable shocks and struts you can fine tune it the way you want. Plus Steeda is an excellent company to deal with. They stand behind their products and any time I had an issue they were quick to make it right.
 
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ptrezby

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I installed the Steeda Progressive Sport Springs with the FP Track shocks and the Steeda Camber Plates over Memorial weekend ... its night and day difference over the factory setup. I will say the drop is a bit more than I expected, but not bad .... I certainly wouldn't want it any lower, though. I did get the FP track springs too, but they're just sitting in the box. I might try them at some point, but I can't imagine it being any better (and I'm not sure I'm skilled enough to discern a subtle difference anyway). At some point I'll swap out the sway bars for something stiffer, but since I've already got slightly stiffer sway bars (over the factory ones) with the HPP I'm not in any rush. All in all, I'm loving the current setup.
 

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TeeLew

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What are your thoughts, and do you have any suggestions for springs that would handle bumpy country back roads better than the stock PP1 springs? I don't care about ride height, if the springs are lower, fine. If they are not, that's fine too. I just want to not feel like I'm going to be bounced off the side of the road when I hit corners with bumps in the road.
The FP spring package is a much better combo, IMO. You get the handling improvement by stiffening the front spring with both kits. The extra rear spring rate and extra static chassis rake (difference in front and rear tire height) the Steeda kit gives makes it just about useless.
 

MrMike

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I think something that's interesting / notable here is that the GT350 rear springs (and the FP Y springs) were both revised with the mild GT350 refresh in 2019. The Y springs are now YA.
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