Steeda Progressive Spring review

[Budnr22]

I met some of them down in Valdosta for my first installation appointment. Top notch folks. Just solidified my purchase even more.

Yep. Me too. They made me feel like part of the team. I am very happy with them.

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[ScottsGT]

Woo-hoo

I am going to do the same. Can you tell me more about this strut socket you used?

Not trying to be a smart ass, but google image it. A pic is worth a 1000 words. They are cheap too!

 

[Budnr22]

Not trying to be a smart ass, but google image it. A pic is worth a 1000 words. They are cheap too!

Sorry. Not trying to be a smart ass, but I did google it - just like every other solution here - and there a ton of them available.

I thought perhaps in the spirit of collaboration, since we are all trying to figure this out together, you would be able to share which one you bought to be a bit helpful, but never mind.

 

[ScottsGT]

Here..this one is really close to mine. The one I picked up 15 years ago has the hex on both sides to fit different strut nuts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...lcDw0skCFQotHwod-qQD-g&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

Didn't have time earlier today. Damned work thing getting in the way...
But the outer socket fits over the strut nut and you hold this with a large adjustible wrench and use a 10mm deep well on a torque wrench and turn ithe strut shaft CCW to tighten the strut nut. As you can see, the large socket is hollow to allow the 10mm to fit through it. All the shiny silver things in the photo are not needed for our cars. It's a generic tool set to fit a variety of cars.

This one is another design. Just make sure it fits the strut nut before ordering.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...e&kw=OTC7544&gclid=CJfO8IPz0skCFcMRHwodD44Mfw

One more design. This one you would use on the torque wrench itself and turn the nut while holding the strut shaft with a 10mm wrench.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2652181/

 

[Budnr22]

Here..this one is really close to mine. The one I picked up 15 years ago has the hex on both sides to fit different strut nuts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...lcDw0skCFQotHwod-qQD-g&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

Didn't have time earlier today. Damned work thing getting in the way...
But the outer socket fits over the strut nut and you hold this with a large adjustible wrench and use a 10mm deep well on a torque wrench and turn ithe strut shaft CCW to tighten the strut nut. As you can see, the large socket is hollow to allow the 10mm to fit through it. All the shiny silver things in the photo are not needed for our cars. It's a generic tool set to fit a variety of cars.

This one is another design. Just make sure it fits the strut nut before ordering.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...e&kw=OTC7544&gclid=CJfO8IPz0skCFcMRHwodD44Mfw

One more design. This one you would use on the torque wrench itself and turn the nut while holding the strut shaft with a 10mm wrench.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2652181/

Thanks. Bought one last night off Amazon...same model as the summit part...thanks

 

[Chris R]

I did a few checks Dave and Mike suggested. Last night I found that my top strut nut was not at factory spec. It was tight, I used an IR air Impact. But as Mike suggested, it won't get a good torque because the strut shaft spins. I used a strut socket to hold the nut and a 10mm on my torque wrench. This made a significant improvement in my knock back noise with only about 1/4 turn (or less) of the shaft.
As far as my lower spindle nuts that require 185 Ft. lbs, my 1/2" torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft lbs. Harbor Freight (their torque wrenches actually get rave reviews on garagejournal.com) sent me a friends and family 25% coupon yesterday. I can get the 3/4" that goes to 300 Ft lbs for $60. If anyone here wants the coupon, PM me your email and I can "forward to a friend" according to the email.
I figure since I removed the rear suspension cradle, I just need the damned torque wrench.

For someone being not a DIY person, I want to make sure that if I do attempt this, that we are having the same issue. Are you referring to the "knock back" noise when going over small bumps, etc.? I thought we determined that this was the spring hitting itself due to the nature of the Progressive's design?

I'm still a bit confused on the issue and a potential fix. I know a pair of silencer rubbers were mentioned, and to tighten some bolts...but I'm still up in there air on what I should be paying the most attention to. Like I referred to earlier, I don't do a whole lot of work to the car myself (don't trust myself being liable for the car I paid so much money for)...so any help would be appreciated.

 

[David@Steeda]

For someone being not a DIY person, I want to make sure that if I do attempt this, that we are having the same issue. Are you referring to the "knock back" noise when going over small bumps, etc.? I thought we determined that this was the spring hitting itself due to the nature of the Progressive's design?

I'm still a bit confused on the issue and a potential fix. I know a pair of silencer rubbers were mentioned, and to tighten some bolts...but I'm still up in there air on what I should be paying the most attention to. Like I referred to earlier, I don't do a whole lot of work to the car myself (don't trust myself being liable for the car I paid so much money for)...so any help would be appreciated.

We'll go over the proper install instructions and torque specs with you prior to you doing the install. We will give you a call on Monday per your schedule!

Again, the progressive coil springs are meant to touch each other as that's what increases the rate. If anyone has any questions at all, please don't hesitate to reach out.

 

[ScottsGT]

Ok, I'm calling this one solved! I'm an idiot for not using my torque wrench and thinking I could just use an impact and set everything to "Goodntight" and get away with it. Of course that's how CJ Pony did it in their videos, so I figured it would work for me.
Use the torque wrench!
Now, I will admit, I have not gone after the two big nuts that hold the strut to the hub/spindle. Why? My noise is gone and I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 185 ft lbs. and with Christmas on the way, funds are tight right now. Maybe later.
When I removed the sway bar link nuts and retorqued them with the red Loctite, half my knock back noise was gone. The fix was using the strut rod socket to hold the nut and torque the shaft to 80 ft lbs. I got less than a 1/4 turn to hit the 80, but this made the biggest difference in quieting things down. I did hit one bump yesterday and thought I heard something, but it might have been the tire slapping the speed bump. I hit every pot hole and man hole cover I could today and got nothing.
Oh, and this am before work I loosened up my bearing plate nuts and retorque them to 46 ft lbs. Don't know if too tight could cause noise issues, but things were great today.
A big thanks goes out to David and Mike at Steeda for working with us to make this good!

 

[Budnr22]

For someone being not a DIY person, I want to make sure that if I do attempt this, that we are having the same issue. Are you referring to the "knock back" noise when going over small bumps, etc.? I thought we determined that this was the spring hitting itself due to the nature of the Progressive's design?

I'm still a bit confused on the issue and a potential fix. I know a pair of silencer rubbers were mentioned, and to tighten some bolts...but I'm still up in there air on what I should be paying the most attention to. Like I referred to earlier, I don't do a whole lot of work to the car myself (don't trust myself being liable for the car I paid so much money for)...so any help would be appreciated.

David will call you from Steeda and he and his team will help you. I talked to them twice. I still have some tightening to do, but feel pretty comfortable about the fix per everyone else's comments.

 

[Budnr22]

Good news and bad news.

Good news - I installed the spring silencers and they got rid of all the noise.

Bad news - I bought the strut socket and when I went to torque it down I snapped the top of the 10mm strut rod off.

I have no idea how I did this. In fact I did not even twist that hard. I am somewhat upset with myself, but what is done is done.

I suppose this is a great excuse to go buy new struts. No chance I am just going to let this stay as is.

At least now I can go over a bump and it is quiet.

 

[Jonas-RR-GT]

Good news and bad news.

Good news - I installed the spring silencers and they got rid of all the noise.

Bad news - I bought the strut socket and when I went to torque it down I snapped the top of the 10mm strut rod off.

I have no idea how I did this. In fact I did not even twist that hard. I am somewhat upset with myself, but what is done is done.

I suppose this is a great excuse to go buy new struts. No chance I am just going to let this stay as is.

At least now I can go over a bump and it is quiet.

Did you remove the strut from the car to torque the strut nut? I was planning on removing the strut per Mike's suggestion.

 

[Budnr22]

Did you remove the strut from the car to torque the strut nut? I was planning on removing the strut per Mike's suggestion.

Nope. Thought I could do it on the car. Oh well. Live and learn.:headbonk:

 

[SK GT]

Good news and bad news.

Good news - I installed the spring silencers and they got rid of all the noise.

Bad news - I bought the strut socket and when I went to torque it down I snapped the top of the 10mm strut rod off.

I have no idea how I did this. In fact I did not even twist that hard. I am somewhat upset with myself, but what is done is done.

I suppose this is a great excuse to go buy new struts. No chance I am just going to let this stay as is.

At least now I can go over a bump and it is quiet.

Good to hear on the silencers. Hopefully mine are here Monday. :( about the snap

 

[Budnr22]

Good to hear on the silencers. Hopefully mine are here Monday. :( about the snap

Thanks. Oh well. Stock struts don't really mate well with aftermarket springs anyway. I may get the ford racing track pack struts and shocks and move forward.

 

[ScottsGT]

UPDATE: I posted too soon about noise being gone. No noise at slower speeds under 45-50 MPH while hitting potholes and manhole covers around town. But last night I drove into town taking a different interstate route. When I hit rough areas where the road meets a bridge or a bad junction of asphalt repairs at 65-70 MPH, I could hear a distinct knock.
My plan of attack today is to install the silencers and take the same 40 mile round trip I took last night since I made mental notes of where things were causing noise.
If it's quiet, I'm going to call it spring slap, although we are being told this should not make noise.
If it's still noisey after the silencers, I'm going to go ahead and pick up that 3/4" drive torque wrench, pull the calipers and rotors and check the torque on the lower nuts.
I'll report back here later what I find.
Of course I'm babysitting my daughters dogs for a few more hours, so that's going to slow me down.

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