Steeda Adjustable Engine Mounts (Brief review/install guide)

[I_dont_even_like_beers]

First time writing something like this so hopefully it's easy to follow.

Manual car.

No pictures unfortunately but I just installed these mounts today to replace my old ones that I thought were shot (they've got 84k miles on them and I was experiencing alot of tramlining and jerkyness when shifting) but I thought wrong. Oh well.

Anyway, first of all the mounts are absolutely worth the money. Shifting is much more buttery, less jerky, turn in is more responsive, no more tram lining, doesnt feel like engine is shifting left or right when turning, and when I hit the gas it feels like the car and engine are actually attached to each other now instead of the engine just "sitting" in the car. Can not recommend them enough. It's a cheap price to pay for something that makes the car feel much more expensive and well made.

Install is easy, tools needed are as follows

3/8s swivel head ratchet for space and everything is fairly low torque
13, 15, 17mm sockets. Direct swivels will make things easier but I was able to get by with a 3/8s impact swivel
24ish inches worth of wobbly extensions
I had 1 10" and a 4" wobblys and a 10" non wobbly
2 jack stands, block of wood, and a jack
T40 torx bit if you want to take the steering shaft off but I didn't need to.

Get the car jacked up fairly high and on jack stands. One side at a time, in increments of 6-8" switching the jack back and forth. If you try to jack one side all the way up youll get your jack stands up on one side, the car will be unstable, it will fall, and youll be an obituary post on Facebook.

Once you have the car jacked up, take your jack and get it under the front of the transmission. Get the block of wood between the jack and the transmission, and just put enough tension on it to hold the block for now.

Okay starting with the drivers side, from.the top of the car if you look down the side of the engine below the headers, youll see two outer 13mm bolts, and a central 15mm nut. Arm your self with your extension sword and take off all of them. They will fight the whole way out because of loctite.

Now jack the engine up a bit, just enough to get the weight off the mount.
From under the car now, you're going to remove the 4 13mm engine mount bolts using some deep sockets, and a swivel. These ones aren't as bad since theres no loctite.

Now that everything is loose, pull the bracket, then pull the mount. Now take your steeda mount and look at your spacers. They all interlock together, and one of them has a flat top. That flat top spacer goes between the new mount and the bracket. The other two spacers will go on top of the bracket. Make sure the beefy washer sits inside the recess of the extra spacers.

Using this arrangement will lower the engine ½". You want this. Unless you have long tubes maybe? or a fear of slightly lowering engines for some reason.

Moving on, give the mounting surface of the mount a quick wipe. Set the mount, start the 2 outer bolts by hand, grab your bracket and get one bolt started just to hold it. Grab your other 3 bolts and loctite them up. Get them started by hand as well, pull out that first bolt and throw some loctite on that one as well. Get all of them tight and lower the engine onto the mount. Thread the long bolt from the steeda mount through the unused spacers, and put that down through the bracket and Into the mount.

Get everything tight, I forgot my torque wrench at home so I just tightened everything to feelsgoodman ft/lbs but you can google torque specs.

Other side is pretty much the same apart from you needing to disconnect the battery before you start because theres a ground wire on the mount. That one's held on by a 15mm nut.

Good luck.

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[BullittTheBlueSky]

A couple of questions;

What was the condition of the factory engine mounts when removed? Could you post pics of them? Those of us with higher mileage cars would appreciate that info.

When you say "tramlining", do you mean the steering phenomenon?

Is your car a manual or auto? Need to understand what you mean when you say "shifting is much more buttery".

What is the NVH from the engine like after installation of the Steeda mounts?

 

[I_dont_even_like_beers]

A couple of questions;

What was the condition of the factory engine mounts when removed? Could you post pics of them? Those of us with higher mileage cars would appreciate that info.

When you say "tramlining", do you mean the steering phenomenon?

Is your car a manual or auto? Need to understand what you mean when you say "shifting is much more buttery".

What is the NVH from the engine like after installation of the Steeda mounts?

The factory engine mounts had some light cracking where the rubber meets metal, and on the bottom of the mount where the soft bladder type deal is. Appeared to still hold fluid just fine and there wasn't any residue where the mount was. As far as pictures go Ill have to get back to you with them.

Yes, I've got 285 michelin ps4s up front and the car would dart around alot of the highway. It was actually pretty tiring on long drives. I have a steeda g trac brace as well which did help but didn't get rid of it completely. Changing the mounts has appeared to eliminate it now.

And it's a manual, I say so on the third or 4th line of the post.

As far as the NVH goes, the only thing I've noticed so far, was feeling a bit of vibration in the foot well on start up. Might be worse on the passenger side since thats where the starter is but nothing crazy. I would say the pros overwhelmingly outweigh the cons.

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