Spindle bolt torque spec?

[Tomster]

Vorshlag gives an approximation of 200 ft lbs and then tells you to refer to the OEM manual for the strut to spindle M16 10.9 bolt. A google shows varying different numbers.

I don't want to under or over torque the bolt. Does anybody have a shop manual with the specification?

Thanks!

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[DocWalt]

184 lb.ft according to my copy of the FSM

 

[JAJ]

184 lb.ft according to my copy of the FSM

184 ft-lbs is what my manual says too.

You're supposed to replace the bolts and the nuts, by the way. Cheap insurance at about $8 per side.

 

[Tomster]

184 ft-lbs is what my manual says too.

You're supposed to replace the bolts and the nuts, by the way. Cheap insurance at about $8 per side.

I'm going to be out at the dealer tomorrow. I'll pick up a set. Thanks very much to both of you!

 

[JAJ]

If you're pulling this apart sometime soon, there's a trick I used when I did mine. I took a short length of 1x2 wood - any wood will do - and drilled a 14mm hole near one end. A 9/16 hole works too.

When I was ready to take the strut out, I fitted the board over one of the wheel studs and let it hang down. I put on a lug nut hand tight to hold it. Then I rounded up an old bench vise I have that's not actually on a bench. I put the vise on the floor under the hub and clamped the bottom end of the stick in it.

The vise holding the stick holding the hub locked the hub in place above the floor. When I took the strut out, the hub didn't move at all. This made it super easy to put it back together without risking any of the various ball joints and rubber boots.

 

[Tomster]

If you're pulling this apart sometime soon, there's a trick I used when I did mine. I took a short length of 1x2 wood - any wood will do - and drilled a 14mm hole near one end. A 9/16 hole works too.

When I was ready to take the strut out, I fitted the board over one of the wheel studs and let it hang down. I put on a lug nut hand tight to hold it. Then I clamped the bottom end in an old bench vise I have that's not actually on a bench. But it's heavy, and that's what matters.

The vise holding the stick holding the hub locked the hub in place above the floor. When I took the strut out, the hub didn't move at all. This made it super easy to put it back together without risking any of the various ball joints and rubber boots.

Thanks.

It's all apart and each hub is resting on a support. The springs are to be compressed tomorrow and the Vorshlag plates installed. I did this same job on my track pack 350 a year ago. I misplaced the torque values from last year and I just wanted to make sure they are correct.

I'll be posting the Vorshlag plate install very soon.

Thanks again for the help

 

[JAJ]

Thanks.

It's all apart and each hub is resting on a support. The springs are to be compressed tomorrow and the Vorshlag plates installed. I did this same job on my track pack 350 a year ago. I misplaced the torque values from last year and I just wanted to make sure they are correct.

I'll be posting the Vorshlag plate install very soon.

Thanks again for the help

Vorshlag makes a big deal out of getting the strut top nut tight. Their method is good, and I followed it carefully. But then I had some noise (which turned out to be something else) so I re-tightened them and found they weren't as tight as I thought they were.

So, when the strut-top nut is being tightened, mark it and the strut stud with a sharpie and keep hitting it with bursts until it stops moving. They describe watching the impact socket and making sure it's not turning. I was sure it had stopped turning when I was finished, but when I came back later and marked the nut and strut with a Sharpie, I got another quarter turn.

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