Spacers with MagneRide

[JeffD]

First post. After a couple Miatas and a 4 Series convertible over the past few years, I just picked up my first Mustang two weeks ago. It is a very loaded convertible. I will use it as my daily driver, fun cruiser, and for occasional spirited back roads driving on weekends. Loving it so far and don't feel a need to make a ton of mods right out of the gate but the sucked in wheels/tires leave something to be desired in my opinion. I have done a lot of searching and solid info is shockingly hard to find for my specific scenario. The MagneRide suspension really seems to throw a wrench into the equation when it comes to the front axle. I want to use the stock PP1 wheels so know I'm looking at 25mm all around or more likely 23mm rear and 25 mm front. I would prefer to not go with bolt on spacers. I'm not a fan of open lug. Quality slip on spacers are not difficult to source. Extended studs seem in very short supply and pretty much everything I read talks about the out of stock everywhere ARPs that require open lugs. Is there an off the shelf solution? I think I would need 1" longer studs in the rear and 1/2" longer in the front. Is that correct? Can I get the exact setup that I'm after?

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[Marsalad]

When I wanted to add slip-on spacers to my 2017 GT PP but didn’t want to spend a small fortune on the ARP set I researched the sizes and discovered that stock studs from an F350 DRW would work perfectly. I got a full set from NAPA for around $120. I knocked out the stock studs and the truck studs went right in. The knurled area was the same. The stock lug nuts were compatible. I was pleasantly surprised that it all worked out.

Now I have a PP2 and wish I could find “negative” spacers because the tires stick out way too far.

 

[JeffD]

Why are the front studs longer on the Magneride cars? A standard Mustang has 30mm of exposed stud front and rear and the PP1 wheels fit fine. So, what's the point of the extra 6mm of stud length? It seems logical that those 6mm could be cut off and you'd have the exact same setup as every non-magneride PP1. Am I missing something?

 

[kz]

Why are the front studs longer on the Magneride cars? A standard Mustang has 30mm of exposed stud front and rear and the PP1 wheels fit fine. So, what's the point of the extra 6mm of stud length? It seems logical that those 6mm could be cut off and you'd have the exact same setup as every non-magneride PP1. Am I missing something?

Entire hub is different, I believe it's the same P/N as GT350. They're mounted to the knuckle differently.

 

[JeffD]

I get that it is a completely different hub. The question remains, why are the studs longer? The PP1 wheels are the same with or without MagneRide, so the wheels clearly don't require the longer studs.

 

[tosha]

I get that it is a completely different hub. The question remains, why are the studs longer? The PP1 wheels are the same with or without MagneRide, so the wheels clearly don't require the longer studs.

How much does the why question matter in your scenario?

If you want to use 25mm slip-on spacer up front, you need arp 100-7733. I just did mine for square setup. For that specific combo, it turned out that I could still use factory lug nuts, but I also ordered factory style lug nuts by Gorilla as the factory ones already warped after few uses.

For the rears, I didn't have a need to do anything, as my wheels already have proper offset. Replacing rear studs seems to be a bigger PITA than fronts.

 

[Marsalad]

This is what I used instead of the ARP version. They’re for a Super Duty so I figured they would be fine.
Replacing the front studs was simple, the rear studs were much more involved.

I not longer have the car I installed these on, which did not have Magneride. My 2020 Mustang does not have spacers.

 

[DonnieO]

When I wanted to add slip-on spacers to my 2017 GT PP but didn’t want to spend a small fortune on the ARP set I researched the sizes and discovered that stock studs from an F350 DRW would work perfectly. I got a full set from NAPA for around $120. I knocked out the stock studs and the truck studs went right in. The knurled area was the same. The stock lug nuts were compatible. I was pleasantly surprised that it all worked out.

Now I have a PP2 and wish I could find “negative” spacers because the tires stick out way too far.

Lmr makes the sve sp2 wheels.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-lmr-sve-sp2-wheels-pp2-replica.113960/

 

[JeffD]

In the end, I took the easy way out and went with the bolt-on Steeda spacers. Before going down that road, I pulled one front wheel and one rear wheel. The mounting surface of the wheels are the same thickness so there is simply an additional 6mm of stud protruding through the front wheel. In the end, I felt comfortable cutting 4mm-6mm off the front studs. I tried to leave them at 30-31mm total length to make sure I had adequate clearance and sufficient threads should I elect to ditch the spacers. I mounted everything up and it looks good and flush. I took a 25 mile drive and it felt smooth...no hint of vibration at freeway speeds. I will pull the wheels back off sometime this week to check the torque on the spacer nuts and confirm that there is no contact between the hub studs and the back of the wheels. If I'm ever unhappy with this setup, there should be no issue removing the spacers and reinstalling the stock wheels directly to the hub or replacing them with aftermarket wheels with the correct offset to achieve the desired look.

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