So what's the best way to break-in your new Coyote/MT-82/Torsen? Manual offers no specifics. Thx.

[Elp_jc]

Hey gang, this is specific to our Bullitts (but also applies to GT PP1 cars with MT-82), hence starting the thread here. First, let's start with what the manual says (verbatim):
TIRES: Need to be run-in for approximately 300 miles
BRAKES & CLUTCH: Avoid heavy use of the brakes and clutch if possible for the first 100 mi in town and for the first 1K mi on freeways
ENGINE: Avoid driving too fast during the first 1K mi. Vary your speed frequently and change up thru the gears early. Do not labor the engine.

Now, my goal is to minimize oil consumption, and maximize component life. So please leave the 'drive it like you stole it' crap for the younger GT crowd. Ha ha.

ENGINE- My main reason to start this thread was the engine. With the plasma coating, it's apparently very important how you break the engine in to minimize oil consumption, so want to adhere to what owners here did, which resulted in no oil consumption. Manual says no rpm limit anywhere, but I'm sure there's a certain protocol to be followed. Let's hear what was yours. I typically use A LOT of engine braking initially, with semi-aggressive acceleration to around 4K rpm, then coasting. That supposedly helps to seats the rings quicker and better... BUT that's where there's honing, and maybe there isn't any with the plasma coating. Also curious what exactly you guys think 'driving too fast' means: Is it engine speed? If yes, how much? Is it vehicle speed? If yes, again, how fast is too fast? Or both? This is important to me because I'll buy the car out of town, and will have to drive it on the highway right off the bat. So let's hear the best way to break in a new Bullitt on the highway, including maximum speed (2K rpm = 74 mph on this car). I may have very nice twisties if my last possible purchase materializes, where I'd break in the tires in 20 miles, not 300. Ha ha.

TORSEN- This will be my first Torsen, and with all the gears inside, maybe they require a special way to break them in. How fast (on the highway) can I go for the first 100 miles? 500? 1K? Curious if it requires special care, to avoid whining, and other differential maladies due to putting too much stress on them initially.

TRANNY- I'll always be easy on it (although stupid test-drivers probably weren't. Ha ha), but just like the differential, not sure which is the maximum vehicle speed desired to avoid issues. And yes, I'll be changing gears constantly, in this case between 5th and 6th. The good news is both are overdrives, so 5th won't shoot engine rpm too high.

MAGNERIDE- no need to break-in the suspension, correct? I ask in case I can hit some twisties about 20 miles away. I'd like to feel how the car behaves in sport and track modes. And how tolerant the wife is. Ha ha. Don't plan to push it too hard, but I'd like to see 0.8G, which I think should be a break-in pace, no? But let me know.

Feel free to elaborate all you want. Always nice to read as many suggestions as possible. Thank you gang.
JC

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[Elp_jc]

Hey, not a single comment on break-in??? ALL of the new owners had to break theirs in. Guess nobody is in helping mood; oh well. Just closed the deal verbally, and will travel tomorrow morning to trade my truck, and bring the new car home. Will hit some world-class twisties before coming, since I'll be basically already there. Dealer is about 20 miles from Cloudcroft, and from there, it's another 17 to the Sunspot observatory, and then another 11 to Timberon. Those twisties on motorcycles are just incredible, but on cars too. I took my last Porsche there. Will see how this one compared . I should put 200 new miles on the car, plus the test-drive, so should get home with about 300 on the clock.

On the way back, it's wide open, and I'd like to cruise at my typical 100 or so. It should be less than 3K rpm on the engine. Of course I'll be varying speed and engine rpm (between 5th and 6th). But my concern is if the Torsen requires taking it easy on the speed for a few hundred miles or not. Don't want it whining, or something, because I didn't take good care of it. Also suggestions on how aggressive (little, medium, etc) it's better to be on this engine with plasma coated cylinder liners. There's no 'honing' on them, right? So the method of seating the rings might be different than lots of engine braking (coasting). Somebody please comment what you did. I'll make my own method. Manual is no help, since I have no freaking idea what the hell 'not too fast' means . Thank you.
JC

 

[Blownfx]

Hey, not a single comment on break-in??? ALL of the new owners had to break theirs in. Guess nobody is in helping mood; oh well. Just closed the deal verbally, and will travel tomorrow morning to trade my truck, and bring the new car home. Will hit some world-class twisties before coming, since I'll be basically already there. Dealer is about 20 miles from Cloudcroft, and from there, it's another 17 to the Sunspot observatory, and then another 11 to Timberon. Those twisties on motorcycles are just incredible, but on cars too. I took my last Porsche there. Will see how this one compared . I should put 200 new miles on the car, plus the test-drive, so should get home with about 300 on the clock.

On the way back, it's wide open, and I'd like to cruise at my typical 100 or so. It should be less than 3K rpm on the engine. Of course I'll be varying speed and engine rpm (between 5th and 6th). But my concern is if the Torsen requires taking it easy on the speed for a few hundred miles or not. Don't want it whining, or something, because I didn't take good care of it. Also suggestions on how aggressive (little, medium, etc) it's better to be on this engine with plasma coated cylinder liners. There's no 'honing' on them, right? So the method of seating the rings might be different than lots of engine braking (coasting). Somebody please comment what you did. I'll make my own method. Manual is no help, since I have no freaking idea what the hell 'not too fast' means . Thank you.
JC

 

[Blownfx]

You have the right idea. I have about 350 miles on mine. I have had it up in the triple digits on the highway. But as you stated rpms were not bad due to 6 speed.
I pushed it to the upper rpms a few times in short bursts. No holeshots yet. And I just keep the rpms changing. You will be fine with your plan 5-6 back and forth on the highway.

 

[Elp_jc]

Thanks brother. Hey, do you know what's best to sit the rings on these plasma-coated engines? Do some semi-aggressive acceleration, then coasting, like on iron-liner engines with honing marks? I think the first 200 miles are the most critical for initial break-in. I should get to the mountains with around 90 on the clock. But that will be great to finish breaking the tranny in. Did you keep your rpm more or less below 4K for the first 100 miles? I'm definitely not going to baby the car. But don't know if I need to be a bit more aggressive or not. At least I have an idea now. Need to get ready to leave tomorrow at wee hours in the morning . Will check once again for other ideas. Also on top sustained speed. I guess it shouldn't be a problem 80, with bursts to triple digits, right? Thx.

 

[PizzyP]

I'm of no help. I just drove my normal driving. I understand it takes a lot to break these cars, so i just drove. Coasting, launching, high speeds, even first 1,000 miles had a long highway trip that did have a bit of constant speed, but also some triple digits. I'm just over 7,000 miles now and no issues of yet. Oil did need change just a few hundred miles ago, dealership said oil looked good and normal.

 

[Elp_jc]

I'm not going to get to triple digits, to avoid putting too much stress on the new Torsen, just in case, since nobody knows. And will accelerate a bit briskly sometimes, but not overly so.

Wish somebody with more knowledge on Torsens and this Coyote engine chimed in to break them in the best possible way, but without knowing, will err on the side of caution, and be more gentle than aggressive.

 

[aileron]

Whip it good!

 

[Mustang_Lou]

Still in the break-in period with mine but just as the manual states is what I've been doing. Worked on my 2016 which, although it did burn a bit of oil at first, was aok afterwards..

 

[Schwerin]

You'll have hundreds of opinions on break-in as there has never been any case of someone having an engine failure and being able to point to "bad break in". There is no way to know your engine failed at 78K due to a bad break in, or if it failed at "only" 220K and not 320K due to bad break in. I've ripped cars right off the lot on the way home and I've babied them. I've never seen ANY way to tell if anything on it was due to break-in or not. In fact most modern engine are run for a while at all kinds of RPM, even red line, when being tested before they are installed.

I just do my first oil change at 100miles, if looks perfectly fine, so I let loose on her, if its a little dirty I change it again at 250 to look. I don't burn any more or less oil than previous cars. In fact I KNOW that my Mach1 was the most babied car I've ever owned(old guy that put 4k miles on it in 4yrs and had meticulous records) and it actually burned the most oil, and that still wasn't a lot.

 

[Elp_jc]

Well, got the car yesterday. I took it to a world class mountain road nearby (I like to do it on my bikes), and it was a blast. Did lots of shifting, and kept the engine between 3 and 4.5K rpm, so not babying it at all, but not beating the crap out of it either . On the way back, kept it between 80 and 105, and occassionally shifting to 5th. Car was great. Just a hair less planted than my ex-Cayman GTS, but I mostly attribute that to the tires, since the other car had a finger of rubber, but I much prefer the additional rubber on this car for the extra comfort the rest of the time. Minimal more body roll as well, but immensely more comfortable in normal mode. Pretty much the perfect balance between comfort and performance; just like I wanted. It got a bit more noisy than I wanted on the way back, but I'm sure A/S3 tires will bring it down to acceptable. And I was near triple digits, so that obviously had something to do with that. Ha ha. And if needed, I'd start adding extra insulation. Awesome ride, especially for the money. No way I'd pay 3 times more for a Porsche, even if I could justify the expense.

 

[Beetleything]

Nice - Enjoy the car !! It's Beauty !! I run A/S3 + on my car and like them.

 

[ice445]

Sounds like you're doing it right. I took my car into the mountains a few times in the first thousand miles, engine braking helps a lot. I didn't rev past 6.5k for the first thousand either. Make sure to vary the engine speed and don't do any long trips and you'll be fine, but don't be afraid to let it eat after the first 100 miles either. After 1000 miles I've been driving it a lot harder. One thing I noticed around the 1800 mile mark is that engine braking especially in the lower gears became much stronger. So I guess that's a good way to tell if you broke it in correctly or not. As far as the first oil change goes, I think 3000 miles at the earliest is good to shoot for. Super early changes are a waste of money and lengthen the break in if anything.

 

[kz]

You are way overthinking this. I took my car autocrossing after owning it for 7 days, on temp tags. Ran it to limiter multiple times. No oil usage. 100 mile thing on clutch and brakes is complete nonsense. Most of the brake pads have to be bedded in (not the case here - but after most of them) and you have to brake hard to do it.

I get you have a new car but think logically - you are not going to be replacing differential / transmission oil after your "break in" - you can but I highly doubt you will. Just drive it, preferably not too cautiously. It will be fine.

 

[Elp_jc]

Nice - Enjoy the car !! It's Beauty !! I run A/S3 + on my car and like them.

Great to hear that. May I ask you how do they compare with the P4Ss in road noise, and grip? I'm thinking of selling my stock P4Ss right now, since I need A/Ss for winter anyway, plus might as well enjoy the quieter ride as early as possible. And as far as grip, I bet they might perform even better than the P4Ss in the mountains, since the summer rubber never gets even close to their optimum temperature for maximum grip in the mountains (it was 61 up there yesterday... and 95 here). But curious to hear what's your take on that .

Finally, does anybody here have any idea what is a fair price for those tires with 200+ miles on them? Just checked, and they cost $1,216 at Tire Rack, while the A/S3s cost $1,060. Thank you.

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