TheLion70x77
Well-Known Member
Do yourselves a favor and upgrade the clutch line. I just had my clutch fail at 30k. Never drag raced. I don't ride the clutch. I drive the car hard road race style for anywhere from 5 minutes to 15 minutes at a time (sustained high RPM over 4k), but I also rev match. I've had issues with the pedal sticking to the floor on rare occasion, but frequently it will get very spongy and have reduced travel. Had that issue since it was stock and bought it used with only 5,600 miles on it. And unfortunately my Mantic 9000 upgrade has turned into a huge PITA as I got a bad one (verified by Mantic, now in process of getting refund and full reimbursement for labor). That was 4 weeks ago. Going on week 5 and took it back to the dealer because the botched the OE clutch I ended up throwing in once we figured out what was wrong with the Mantic.
They mangled (big time) the cover plate that goes between the trans bell housing and the engine block (keeps debris from getting in), lost the screw access cover for the fly wheel (it's a big rubber plug that's about 3in dia), left both my exhaust clamps completely loose and stripped the threads on the shift know...believe me at week 5 of this saga I"m seriously pissed off at this point. Especially after the OE clutch failing prematurely, getting a bad after market clutch and then a botch OE clutch job with rookie mistakes...
Do yourself a favor and replace the hydraulic line with a braided stainless steel one or the Ford Performance line. Expansion of the line due to heat and it's location right next tot the header is primary cause of the "pedal stuck to floor" and "spongy or partial return" issues. Pretty much everyone that tracks their car does this, but it's an issue for street cars too, especially if driven hard. It's a cheap fix that can save you a tone of head ache and cost. The OE clutch is actually a pretty decent unit, it's the hydraulic line that's the failure point and causes the OE clutch to experience excessive heating during shifting because it's not fully disengaging due to line expansion. Some experience line kinking, where the fluid won't return (pedal stuck to floor). Either way, it's garbage and been an ongoing issue since 2011.
They mangled (big time) the cover plate that goes between the trans bell housing and the engine block (keeps debris from getting in), lost the screw access cover for the fly wheel (it's a big rubber plug that's about 3in dia), left both my exhaust clamps completely loose and stripped the threads on the shift know...believe me at week 5 of this saga I"m seriously pissed off at this point. Especially after the OE clutch failing prematurely, getting a bad after market clutch and then a botch OE clutch job with rookie mistakes...
Do yourself a favor and replace the hydraulic line with a braided stainless steel one or the Ford Performance line. Expansion of the line due to heat and it's location right next tot the header is primary cause of the "pedal stuck to floor" and "spongy or partial return" issues. Pretty much everyone that tracks their car does this, but it's an issue for street cars too, especially if driven hard. It's a cheap fix that can save you a tone of head ache and cost. The OE clutch is actually a pretty decent unit, it's the hydraulic line that's the failure point and causes the OE clutch to experience excessive heating during shifting because it's not fully disengaging due to line expansion. Some experience line kinking, where the fluid won't return (pedal stuck to floor). Either way, it's garbage and been an ongoing issue since 2011.
Sponsored
