So, I got some Goodies for a 1" drop.

[Condor1970]

- SVE Progressive Springs. (rebranded Eibach Pros)

- SVE Camber Plates.

- Koni Red, Special Active Struts.

- SR Performance Strut Tower Brace.

- SVE Stainless Clutch Line.

- Whiteline Transmission bushing insert.

I see the AM Maximum Motorsports install on YouTube, and their plates look similar to the SVE. However, Is there by chance a specific video showing proper rotational positioning of the SVE camber plates when I rebuild the Struts?

Sponsored

 

[spaz mk will]

From looking at the product page and the one video that somewhat shows it, I think this is correct. The install page seems to show proper orientation.

 

[spaz mk will]

The Maximum Motorsports plates do look very similar and have much more detailed instructions to help visualize.

https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/Mm6CC-10install.pdf

 

[Condor1970]

From looking at the product page and the one video that somewhat shows it, I think this is correct. The install page seems to show proper orientation.

I think you're right. The design looking very similar to the MaxMotorSports would indicate the slightly curved edge on the triangle plate would go forward. If the front strut stud is most inward, then that would make the camber slots on the triangle plate perpendicular to the drivetrain, which is what it needs to be.

Since I'll have the whole rear torn apart on jack stands, I wonder if it wouldn't be a good time to go ahead and install some Whiteline bushings? No alloy lockouts, just poly IRS and subframe inserts?

 

[larr12]

A video from Auto Fanatic 007 installing MM Camber Plates. Might help..

 

[Condor1970]

I just got the front struts installed today. I bought the SVE camber plates from LMR, which look almost like the ones above. The one thing I am VERY angry about, is I wanted to install an SR Performance strut brace. but he studs on the camber plates aren't long enough!!! ARGH!!!

 

[NightmareMoon]

I just got the front struts installed today. I bought the SVE camber plates from LMR, which look almost like the ones above. The one thing I am VERY angry about, is I wanted to install an SR Performance strut brace. but he studs on the camber plates aren't long enough!!! ARGH!!!

wierd. The factory strut tower doesn’t bolt to the stut mounting bolts, it has it’s own.

 

[Condor1970]

wierd. The factory strut tower doesn’t bolt to the stut mounting bolts, it has it’s own.

I know. I think I'm going to cut off the two extra mounting bolt holes on the SR brace, and just mount it on the two studs a factory brace would be mounted to.

 

[Condor1970]

I know. I think I'm going to cut off the two extra mounting bolt holes on the SR brace, and just mount it on the two studs a factory brace would be mounted to.

That's EXACTLY what I just got done doing about 10 minutes ago. I used my angle grinder and took off the front two bolt holes...ears? Whatever. Anyway, it looks great and fits perfectly now. And yes, it does firm up the front end quite a bit.

I just did a few laps around the neighborhood, and it feels so much different. No more bouncy bouncy. It feels very.... comfortably firm? If that exists? Kind of reminds of my buddies BMW 240i.

No more porpoising. It's much more planted, yet when cruising is more more smooth and doesn't bounce around when you hit bumps. The drop is just about perfect. I'll give it a week to settle in a little further, then go get an alignment.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I'll give it a week to settle in a little further, then go get an alignment.

give it a couple days if you like, but its not going to settle much if at all. What will need to happen tho to get it to even out at the right height is you’llneed to have all the rubber bushings clocked while its on the alignment rack (i.e. with the weight on the tires). The ribber bushings in the front and rear suspension don’t freely pivot, they’re locked in for whatever ride height they were tightened at. If you do a search theres a diagram floating around of exactly which bushings need to be loosened and re tightened after a ride height change.. doing so will help the ride.

 

[Condor1970]

give it a couple days if you like, but its not going to settle much if at all. What will need to happen tho to get it to even out at the right height is you’llneed to have all the rubber bushings clocked while its on the alignment rack (i.e. with the weight on the tires). The ribber bushings in the front and rear suspension don’t freely pivot, they’re locked in for whatever ride height they were tightened at. If you do a search theres a diagram floating around of exactly which bushings need to be loosened and re tightened after a ride height change.. doing so will help the ride.

Yes, I have a listed of about 6 bushings that need to be clocked. I was going to have the alignment shop do this when they get it on the rack, prior to the alignment.

 

[Condor1970]

Just got done with an alignment. I asked the Tech, (who's a Challenger owner) to clock all bushings front and rear. He knew exactly what I meant. Thank Heavens, because I took it to Leslie Swab, and they looked at me like I was from Mars when I mentioned this. The guy at Point "S", formerly Big "O", understood my jargon.

Anyway, the front is still the same, 1/4" higher than the rear at 27.25" rear, 27.5" front. I'll just drive it for several months to work everything in. If it's still 1/4 high in the front, then I can get a set of Steeda Spacers for the rear, and some Rear Camber brackets, since the rear camber is at 2.5 degrees. I may want that a little less. Outside of that, everything seems to run pretty darn good.

 

[Condor1970]

Before

After

The front just doesn't seem like it dropped much at all. It better settle, because it was a lot of money and work to get a 1" drop for better performance. So far, not so impressive. Time will tell.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Looks great.

FWIW you don’t need parts to adjust the rear camber, its adjustable from the factory. Keep it to 2 or less to avoid losing too much straight line traction.

 

[Condor1970]

Looks great.

FWIW you don’t need parts to adjust the rear camber, its adjustable from the factory. Keep it to 2 or less to avoid losing too much straight line traction.

The tech said he could not adjust it anymore to get it less than what it is. I think i may end up having to install a set of Steeda camber brackets.

Sponsored