Slight grinding noise....

[burrpenick]

2015 V6 a/t, low miles, started noticing this recently- not sure where its coming from. ALso the car sits in the garage for 6 months and then its only driven maybe once in two weeks around town briefly. Noise is also heard a little on backing up, when turning the wheel. Car rides and drives perfectly, and dont hear it at speed, also dont feel it in the steering. Was going to check the PS fluid then realized its probably electronic when I didnt see any pump! Suspected the rear axles, but again, dont hear it anytime after about 5 mph. ??????

Sponsored

 

[Johnny Rockit]

I put a trac-lok in the car I just sold and it would do that in turns either in forward or reverse. Never in a straight line though. Just thinking out loud.

 

[burrpenick]

thanks, not sure but think this base v6 has an open rear. It may have had one axle replaced as well. I did have the fluid checked last year and he had to add some... so you were getting a grinding like noise- as you say, only as I turn.
George

 

[Decosse]

You might want to check before you eliminate -to my knowledge all S550s have a limited slip differential, my 2016 V6 definitely does. It'll be a Traction-Lok. This is from my owners' manual: HTH

 

[burrpenick]

thanks for the response. Yes, I was thinking it had the limited slip. I have only put 1000 miles on the car, its at 56K now and this noise just started last month. The car sat in my garage for 7 months last year but I've been driving it some since xmas. Hoping it would go away, but, not yet. I do remember seeing the brake pads were getting due when I changed to solid lug nuts, but kind of ruled that out (the worn brake pads thingees) as it doesnt seem to do it in a straight line- w/the brakes applied. And did I mention my hearing is bad!

 

[WD Pro]

I put a trac-lok in the car I just sold and it would do that in turns either in forward or reverse. Never in a straight line though. Just thinking out loud.

thanks, not sure but think this base v6 has an open rear. It may have had one axle replaced as well. I did have the fluid checked last year and he had to add some... so you were getting a grinding like noise- as you say, only as I turn.
George

In my experience, the base diff can be really noisy if the oil is changed and / or the friction modifier is omitted, have a read here :

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/euro-cars-diff-oil-change-advice-experiences.186902/

Just thought I would post my experiences for those of you with a Euro (or any Track Lock diff) car and want to change the diff oil

It's a bit of a long story, so bear with me ... lol.

In bullet point format :

• I broke a diff bolt.
• Ford took care of the warranty.
• Part of the job was to replace the diff oil.
• Part of the job was also to include fitment of the steeda diff bushes and cradle lock out.

I got the car back and I have to say it was great, much more 'solid' feeling at the back and much more predictable during enthusiastic driving, BUT I had a couple of small issues (although they were far outweighed by the improvements) :

• Full lock turns on a cold diff = huge diff chatter (like the diffs going to drop out or explode kind of loud ).
• Some very marginal gear whine, only when warm and only when on / off throttle at low speeds in first gear (7 to 11 mph driving over speed humps etc). Can't hear it when the speed is faster due to other road noises and it was kind of mild enough where my misses would be like 'what noise ?' lol.

So it would have been dead easy to blame it on the Steeda kit, but as it also drove diffetly I part convinced myself the diff was acting differently, which made me look closer at the diff and the oil change, this is the bit that's especially important on a euro

So UK manual (no friction modifier) :

USDM manual (with friction modifier) :

So a call to my tech confirmed no friction modifier, no mention of it on their system.

So I get the friction modifier spec and part number and go visit the parts department = They recognised the number, but couldn't order it and confirmed it was obsolete and removed from the system several years ago. I think he said the last cost was circa £45

So I bought some of ebay (£13 delivered ) along with some big syringes from Amazon and spent a bit of time under the car :

Sucked 130ml out, squirted in the friction modifier, squirted oil back in to bring the volume back to where I started (I will check it again when cold / level) :

I immediately did a full lock turn in the street, the chatter was significantly reduced.

Took it for a drive with a few roundabouts (and a few wiggles on exiting them lol) then parked it up overnight.

Cold start the following morning, full lock coming off the drive (where I initially noticed the noise) and it was silent.

Got it warm (but not stinking hot) and it was silent over the speed humps coming home.

So in my experience, on my car and its current setup, friction modifier is definitely needed if you want a quiet ride. 'Maybe' you would get away without it on a totally standard car / fully rubber bushed / partially worn diff ?

Interestingly, I had semi convinced myself that some the the nicer driving properties were due to the diff locking up quicker due to the lack of friction modifier and I was worried I would miss that by adding the modifier back in, but as it turns out it's still driving the same so the differences must be due to the steeda kit

@tj@steeda @SteedaTech - I thought you might be interested in the above for two reasons :

1. It would have been easy to blame my initial noises after the rebuild on your kit, where in truth it was the oil spec that made the difference on my car.
2. It's a nice compliment towards your kit that locking the subframe and diff out can make such a noticeable difference to the back end feel on these cars

WD

WD

 

[burrpenick]

Thank You! This sounds like what Im hearing, and I know that oil has been added and my guess is the friction lube was not. George

Sponsored