Should I run E85 (E65) or 91 gas with Boostane?

[2morrow]

@2morrow

Thanks for the video, about 4 min into it! I actually have not yet run the E65 yet! So will data log after driving around for a bit...waiting for snow to melt here we got a bit the other day.
Glad to hear the drive-ability is good for you though. In regards to colder climate I'm interested to see how it does here in the cold of Colorado. Maybe that's why they run the winter blend because the true E85 acts up a bit on start up.

[/QUOTE]

Oh I see and no probs man. Glad it was helpful. Yeah you might have to do a log or two but maybe the 65 winter blend will address that.

Definitely keep us up to speed and enjoy!

Sponsored

 

[NickBlack]

Yeah, definitely avoid the diff bushing inserts IMO. As to the BMR CB005 vs Steedas kit, take your pick. Someone more technical could explain it better than I could. But, since you already have the CB005, keep that and get the CB762 instead. There is no better combination to solving the IRS movement from what I can tell, other than going to solid subframe bushings and CB762. The design of the CB762 in terms of reinforcing the subframe and the chassis itself - its impressive. I plan on adding this myself.

The CB005 removes 80-95% of the subframe movement per BMR. Add the CB762 and you are as close to 100% as possible without the NVH of solid subframe bushings.

Edit: the Steeda RLCA bearing you will LOVE. I also recommend their front control arms and bearings. Adding bearings to the main pickup points is the #2 or #3 best thing you can do IMO to the suspension, next to CB005/or other subframe bushing/braces.

Outstanding! Thanks for the great advice on the CB762 kit, looks killer.

 

[SheepDog]

Hello NickBlack. I live in Milliken and I will say that on cold weather days, like anything below around 40 degrees, my car will barely start with E in the tank. I use Kum&Go E85, which actually tests consistently at E70. Another couple things to consider that may not have been mentioned here:

To achieve 100 octane using Boostane and starting with 91 octane gasoline, you need almost 2 ounces of Boostane per gallon of fuel. To achieve the 110 Octane you want, Boostane states that it takes 16 ounces of Boostane per gallon of fuel. This means you need 2 gallons of Boostane per tank of gas, around 120 bucks. Just to get to 100 octane, each fillup will cost you around $70 at 2.70 a gallon for 91 octane and 1 32oz bottle of Boostane. "E85" is around $1.85 right now, so a little less than 29 bucks a tank. Even given the 35% increase in consumption when running corn juice, its still a better deal, and better for the engine, and better for the environment etc. and Ethanol has cooling properties that gasoline cannot match.

Because flex tunes aren't offered for boosted applications, I just stick with gasoline in the winter and E70 in the summer due to the very hard starts in the cold. The air is so cold around here in the winter anyway that you DA can actually be lower than your current elevation. The Ethanol really shines when its hot outside.

 

[Ruiner46]

Hello NickBlack. I live in Milliken and I will say that on cold weather days, like anything below around 40 degrees, my car will barely start with E in the tank. I use Kum&Go E85, which actually tests consistently at E70. Another couple things to consider that may not have been mentioned here:

To achieve 100 octane using Boostane and starting with 91 octane gasoline, you need almost 2 ounces of Boostane per gallon of fuel. To achieve the 110 Octane you want, Boostane states that it takes 16 ounces of Boostane per gallon of fuel. This means you need 2 gallons of Boostane per tank of gas, around 120 bucks. Just to get to 100 octane, each fillup will cost you around $70 at 2.70 a gallon for 91 octane and 1 32oz bottle of Boostane. "E85" is around $1.85 right now, so a little less than 29 bucks a tank. Even given the 35% increase in consumption when running corn juice, its still a better deal, and better for the engine, and better for the environment etc. and Ethanol has cooling properties that gasoline cannot match.

Because flex tunes aren't offered for boosted applications, I just stick with gasoline in the winter and E70 in the summer due to the very hard starts in the cold. The air is so cold around here in the winter anyway that you DA can actually be lower than your current elevation. The Ethanol really shines when its hot outside.

Did you use a local tuner for your E85 tune? I'm in Denver with a Whipple and I've been thinking about getting a fuel system and E85 tune.

 

[bootlegger]

I recommend running 91 or 93 every third-fourth tank or so.

Just run a polyetheramine detergent every few tanks. The only reason to some switch to 93 is for the detergency, as only 15% of the E85 contains any detergent. Easier and cheaper to just dump something like Chevron Techron or the STP Complete fuel system cleaner in every couple tanks.

To the OP: Don't dump excessive amounts of any additive in the tank to achieve a large octane increase. Very few additives will get you to the octane level you want, and many contain extra components that you don't need. Run the E85, dose with EtOH friendly detergent every couple tanks or run a tank of top tier 93, and have fun.

 

[limited02]

I personally would avoid boostane unless you 100% need it. A good 91 tune is better than no tune and PBD are very good at what they do. So, do the E65 tune as mentioned and toss 91 in from time to time.

 

[SheepDog]

Did you use a local tuner for your E85 tune? I'm in Denver with a Whipple and I've been thinking about getting a fuel system and E85 tune.

No I have always used Lund. Also, when I do have corn in the tank, I use a BG Ethanol Fuel system treatment once in a while for peace of mind. They also make a fuel system dryer additive for those of you that run E and it sits for extended periods of time. The relative humidity in Colorado is generally very low, so Ethanol will last a bit longer in the tank vs. say someone in Louisiana.

 

[Zrussian13]

I've had my Lund ff tune for a couple days now and I had a little 91 left in the tank so I'm only seeing 36% ethanol on my logs so far. It's still a really impressive gain. I cant wait until my next fill up when I really increase the E content.

 

[bootlegger]

No I have always used Lund. Also, when I do have corn in the tank, I use a BG Ethanol Fuel system treatment once in a while for peace of mind. They also make a fuel system dryer additive for those of you that run E and it sits for extended periods of time. The relative humidity in Colorado is generally very low, so Ethanol will last a bit longer in the tank vs. say someone in Louisiana.

You don't need a fuel dryer for ethanol. It already holds massive amounts of water. If you have so much moisture that you are getting separation, you wouldn't want that going through your fuel system. Phase separation is only an issue in E10/E15.

 

[ChiTownStang26]

Not trying to derail but I'm grabbing a lund FF tune in a month but I was going to use my old sctx4 from my v6 but I cant find a way to view ethanol % even after enabling the pid. Do I need an ngauge? Is there a cheaper way to monitor it instead of dropping 400 on the ngauge.

Sponsored