Shifting issues. Not sure what I should do.

[Dark Pony]

I posted this in the transmission part of the site, but it doesn't appear that it gets as much traffic as the general section. If it needs to be deleted I understand.

Hello! So, a few months back, due to a horribly missed shift I broke something in my MT82 and I was not able to go into 5th gear. After that, I decided I never wanted to have shifting issues and sent my trans to Ben calimer for a stage 2 rebuild, bought a spec twin disk clutch, and mgw flat stick shifter. Well about 2 weeks ago, I got it all back together and just got done with the 500 mile break in, however it feels like something is off.

The shifts feel extremely notchy when I'm driving around. I knew there would be a little more effort going into gear however it feels like it's a gated shifter and the gates are misaligned. Like if I am shifting from 3rd to 4th, it feels like I hit a little ledge or a step or something before it slides into gear. It gets a bit worse if I'm doing it at high rpm and trying to shift fast. Missed a gear last night because of it. Now, if I turn the car off and row through the gears, it feels great, feels the way I think it should feel, everything slides into gear smoothly with no steps/ledges or whatever.

Right now in using amsoil 75w-90 gl-4 fluid that Mr. Calimer reccomended, and I have used amsoil oil in the past with good results, however maybe it's not what I should be running? Seems like bg synchro mesh has had good results, however I would have figured amsoil would be up there too.

Another thing to note is that the spec twin disk clutch engages/disengages very high in the peddle stroke. I have bought a RAM pedal adjuster to lower the engagement point closer to the middle the stroke. I'm not sure if the clutch is having any effect on this issue, however I wanted to note it because when the car is off, the shifting actually feels like a "well oiled rifle bolt" as opposed to shifting through jelly and then hitting a step.

Any ideas on what else I can do/try? I've heard some people using inserts and such, however I didn't figure it would be needed with the mgw? Thanks for your time.

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[NZ GT mustang]

I posted this in the transmission part of the site, but it doesn't appear that it gets as much traffic as the general section. If it needs to be deleted I understand.

Hello! So, a few months back, due to a horribly missed shift I broke something in my MT82 and I was not able to go into 5th gear. After that, I decided I never wanted to have shifting issues and sent my trans to Ben calimer for a stage 2 rebuild, bought a spec twin disk clutch, and mgw flat stick shifter. Well about 2 weeks ago, I got it all back together and just got done with the 500 mile break in, however it feels like something is off.

The shifts feel extremely notchy when I'm driving around. I knew there would be a little more effort going into gear however it feels like it's a gated shifter and the gates are misaligned. Like if I am shifting from 3rd to 4th, it feels like I hit a little ledge or a step or something before it slides into gear. It gets a bit worse if I'm doing it at high rpm and trying to shift fast. Missed a gear last night because of it. Now, if I turn the car off and row through the gears, it feels great, feels the way I think it should feel, everything slides into gear smoothly with no steps/ledges or whatever.

Right now in using amsoil 75w-90 gl-4 fluid that Mr. Calimer reccomended, and I have used amsoil oil in the past with good results, however maybe it's not what I should be running? Seems like bg synchro mesh has had good results, however I would have figured amsoil would be up there too.

Another thing to note is that the spec twin disk clutch engages/disengages very high in the peddle stroke. I have bought a RAM pedal adjuster to lower the engagement point closer to the middle the stroke. I'm not sure if the clutch is having any effect on this issue, however I wanted to note it because when the car is off, the shifting actually feels like a "well oiled rifle bolt" as opposed to shifting through jelly and then hitting a step.

Any ideas on what else I can do/try? I've heard some people using inserts and such, however I didn't figure it would be needed with the mgw? Thanks for your time.

Ok Andy from New Zealand
Ford put the Mt82 into 2011 Mustangs onward - 2019 They are German, made in China, there is a Class action in the US as I write this.
Everything that you mentioned is what I had problem to me. The Chineses did not fully weld some of the 4 gears and more, if you can't get into 4 or 5 (at all) that can mean the forks have broken.. Ford Revised the MT82 in 2018 (MT82-B4) and put 5th and 6th as a overdrive gear . There is a TSB 11-11-01 August 2011. They said to use use Ford Dual Clutch fluid part Number XT-11-QDC I may try this.
Part of the problem is the support bracket bracket for the remote shifter, which is chassis mounted and looks like a bake bean can and the rubber gearbox mount is to flexible. What I did was remove the factory shifter bracket and I installed a Blowfish tranz support bracket(I did get some extra vibration coming through, but that does not worry me, wind the windows down). There are others but this was priced probably at the bottom end, the other thing I did was is instal a Whiteline #KDT 928 (Fits 2011-2020 Mustangs)gear box insert, it fills some of the holes in the factory mount, I did a mod to the insert and drilled a hole in the large flat bit, it is meant to reduce some off the sound. This has made a difference but time will tell. The other thing, I've got a Steeda clutch pedal spring(35lbs) coming, this should give me more clutch pedal feel, the factory one is 130lb spring I will try the Ford Dual Clutch fluid part Number XT-11-QDC, but will be asking ford about that first. I hope this Helps

 

[ice445]

The synchros in your rebuild are probably brand new, it's not unheard of for them to be a bit notchy until they wear in. That's why you notice nothing when the car is off, the synchros aren't spinning. If you rev match a down shift does it still do it? As far as the clutch biting high, that sounds normal for a twin disc, the 18+ cars with the factory twin disc also bite really high.

 

[Dark Pony]

Update: Turns out the clutch doesn't really self bleed. I did the whole 100+ pedal pump thing, and It might pump up and get firm like it's bled, but there could still be air in the line. After talking to SPEC clutches and telling them my issues, they suspected that there was still a bit of air in the line. I asked them how I was supposed to bleed it and they told me that their techs disconnect the line at the slave cylinder and pump the pedal until fluid flows all the way through and is dripping out then re-install the line to the slave. I needed to install my RAM clutch pedal adjuster anyway which has you replace the clutch line with stainless braided lines, so I figured hell, might as well try it. Anyhow, long story short, it instantly cleared up the shifting issues. The MGW actually feels like a high end rifle bolt now (not like a POS mossberg patriot, lol) Also, the Ram clutch pedal adjuster works well to and I now have my clutch on my twin disk releasing pretty much where my stock pedal did. Hope this might help someone out.

 

[Elp_jc]

So did you have to remove the freaking tranny for that??? Damn. I was REALLY surprised Ford didn't even install a bleed nipple at all; not even inside the tranny. Or did you disconnect the line that goes into the tranny? Although that would leave a lot of fluid still there, including the slave. At least Ford should have used mineral fluid, if it was supposed to be 'lifetime'. I really wanted to be able to bleed my clutch when it's time for the brakes, but seems like it's impossible to do without major disassembly. What a bummer.

 

[Dark Pony]

So did you have to remove the freaking tranny for that??? Damn. I was REALLY surprised Ford didn't even install a bleed nipple at all; not even inside the tranny. Or did you disconnect the line that goes into the tranny? Although that would leave a lot of fluid still there, including the slave. At least Ford should have used mineral fluid, if it was supposed to be 'lifetime'. I really wanted to be able to bleed my clutch when it's time for the brakes, but seems like it's impossible to do without major disassembly. What a bummer.

Nope. Just disconnected the line from the trans. (took off the plastic elbow as well as I had to reattach it to the new line) once the new line was connected at the MC, we let the line into the trans dangle and pumped it until fluid came out, then reattached it. It is a pain in the ass, at least getting the little clip in on the elbow on the line to the trans. My father in law did that part. Lol. Yeah, they should have added a bleeder instead this ghetto ass way to bleed it. I don't even know how it bleeds the slave, but at this point I don't even care, just glad all the shit is working. Lol.

 

[Elp_jc]

Thanks man. Maybe I'll do that too when it's time to bleed the brakes in a year or so. But yes, old fluid will stay in the slave and the line up to that connector. Just stupid.

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