bigred90gt
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- Nov 26, 2015
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- Location
- Houston, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT PP
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- #1
Apologies for the novel, I write technical documents for a living and get long winded at times. Skip to the last 2 paragraphs if you dont want the back story.
So, not long after I bought the car, I did what I always do and replaced the stock sub. Originally, bought a Polk DB+842 4 ohm DVC sub, wired it to 2 ohm, and installed a Kicker Key 500.1 amp I had laying around. I used a Kicker LOC (not necessary, I know) for the signal wires. As is typical, the 8" sub just wasnt what I wanted, so the next day I bought a 10" Kicker L7T solobaric sub in a box at 2 ohm and ran it off the same amp. I think the 8" ran on the amp for maybe an hour or two total. When I installed the L7T, it was facing the rear seats, and it just sounded odd (like there was not enough room between the seat and the sub). I turned it around to face the inside of the trunk, and that's when it got weird. It would play (and bump pretty good) for about a minute, then the sub would just start popping everytime it tried to put out any bass and the protection light would kick on on the amp. I switched back to the 8", and it was doing the same thing. Thinking it was an amp problem (old amp I had already), I bought another Key 500.1 and it did the same thing immediately with both subs. I had a key 500.1 in my ram for probably 2 years running the same sub with no issue.
I started thinking maybe it was an issue with the LOC, so I removed the LOC from the system and wired the amp using the rear deck speakers for inputs (already flattened the signal in ForeScan). Same issue. out of frustration, I bought a Kenwood KAC511 amp, and installed it. About a minute into it, it completely shut down, went into protection and would not work any more. I ended up removing the kicker sub and the amp I installed and reinstalling the OEM amp (reconfigured the wiring in the box back to how it is wired stock). It sounds decent I suppose, better than the OEM sub for sure, but I am always looking for more, which brings me to my question.
I have read all sorts of things regarding the stock sub being a 2ohm DVC sub or a 4ohm DVC sub, but no definitive information I can find. Does anyone know for certain what the OEM sub is in the 2016 Shaker Pro system? I would measure mine, but it is in storage 30 minutes from my house. Does anyone know the actual wattage output of the stock amp? Lots of guesses that I've found, but no real information.
If the stock sub is 2 ohm DVC, that would mean I'm losing out on some power from the stock amp by running the Polk 4 ohm DVC sub. If that is the case, I'm looking to replace it with a 2 ohm DVC sub in hopes of improving the output from it. At this point, I have no desire to go down the rabbit hole of replacing everything, though at some point I probably will. I'm looking at the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 to use in the factory box with the factory amp. I've attached a picture with the relevant specs for both the Polk I currently have and the Pioneer I'm looking at. Assuming the OEM sub and amp are 2 ohm, I can only guess the Pioneer would give better output as it is better matched to the OEM amp? I'm not displeased with the Polk, I'm just looking for something a little more oomph.
So, not long after I bought the car, I did what I always do and replaced the stock sub. Originally, bought a Polk DB+842 4 ohm DVC sub, wired it to 2 ohm, and installed a Kicker Key 500.1 amp I had laying around. I used a Kicker LOC (not necessary, I know) for the signal wires. As is typical, the 8" sub just wasnt what I wanted, so the next day I bought a 10" Kicker L7T solobaric sub in a box at 2 ohm and ran it off the same amp. I think the 8" ran on the amp for maybe an hour or two total. When I installed the L7T, it was facing the rear seats, and it just sounded odd (like there was not enough room between the seat and the sub). I turned it around to face the inside of the trunk, and that's when it got weird. It would play (and bump pretty good) for about a minute, then the sub would just start popping everytime it tried to put out any bass and the protection light would kick on on the amp. I switched back to the 8", and it was doing the same thing. Thinking it was an amp problem (old amp I had already), I bought another Key 500.1 and it did the same thing immediately with both subs. I had a key 500.1 in my ram for probably 2 years running the same sub with no issue.
I started thinking maybe it was an issue with the LOC, so I removed the LOC from the system and wired the amp using the rear deck speakers for inputs (already flattened the signal in ForeScan). Same issue. out of frustration, I bought a Kenwood KAC511 amp, and installed it. About a minute into it, it completely shut down, went into protection and would not work any more. I ended up removing the kicker sub and the amp I installed and reinstalling the OEM amp (reconfigured the wiring in the box back to how it is wired stock). It sounds decent I suppose, better than the OEM sub for sure, but I am always looking for more, which brings me to my question.
I have read all sorts of things regarding the stock sub being a 2ohm DVC sub or a 4ohm DVC sub, but no definitive information I can find. Does anyone know for certain what the OEM sub is in the 2016 Shaker Pro system? I would measure mine, but it is in storage 30 minutes from my house. Does anyone know the actual wattage output of the stock amp? Lots of guesses that I've found, but no real information.
If the stock sub is 2 ohm DVC, that would mean I'm losing out on some power from the stock amp by running the Polk 4 ohm DVC sub. If that is the case, I'm looking to replace it with a 2 ohm DVC sub in hopes of improving the output from it. At this point, I have no desire to go down the rabbit hole of replacing everything, though at some point I probably will. I'm looking at the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 to use in the factory box with the factory amp. I've attached a picture with the relevant specs for both the Polk I currently have and the Pioneer I'm looking at. Assuming the OEM sub and amp are 2 ohm, I can only guess the Pioneer would give better output as it is better matched to the OEM amp? I'm not displeased with the Polk, I'm just looking for something a little more oomph.
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