Shaker pre-amp signal measurements

[Cream Puff]

Mouser.com will sell individuals.

The gray one is part number 34729-0161 (male) and the females are 34690-0161 (vertical) and 34691-0161 (right angle header).


The 14-pin brown connector has caveats. The 34927-0142 male end is on order until May 26, 2015.

The female end is not stocked (34772-0142). Minimum order is 205. However, they do have the 0140 variant, which is molded with a slight difference for polarized applications. Search for part numbers 34772-0140 / 34773-0140 (right angle). These may just take a little modifications to fit. There is a male crimp version available: 34969-0140.

Snipping this from the other thread, Can you confirm just to make sure im reading this right.

If I were to order

34772-0140
34969-0140 or 34927-0142

34729-0161
34690-0160

I should be able to make a plug and play harness that would allow me to feed the front channel into an aftermarket processor while leaving the amp connected for the rear channel using the factory connections should I choose to leave them in for rear fill.


my plan is to make a short 6 or so inch adapter cable that would allow me to leave the stock rear channels connected while tapping the front channel inputs to run to my amps.

Thanks for the help!

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[Aus550]

Thanks for the writeup Harry. I'd started researching how to get RCA out a couple of months ago with no luck, so to see it's possible is a great relief.

I've ordered a molex connector to suit, and I'm just wondering, will the pin numbers be printed on it? In the absence of a delivered car (waiting for RHD) I can't cross reference the wiring diagram colors to the loom in place.

If they aren't, would you mind please describing the pin order?

 

[h65]

Molex parts / pins

From the wiring diagrams that Heinocerous posted at http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=404864&postcount=41 there are three plugs labeled C4270, C2385A and C2385B.


C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation. Search mouser.com for part number 34690-0160 -
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

C2385A has most of the speaker outputs. Use mouser.com #34690-0161- http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.


Molex has drawings that show the pin numbers:
http://www.molex.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/346900161_sd.pdf and http://www.molex.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/347720142_sd.pdf.

 

[Aus550]

Thanks again Harry, extremely informative as ever. It's a great help.

Just for future readers benefit, *

The pin # drawings are a view from the plug side, and not the loom side, correct?




* I'm Australian, could you please make it even simpler!

 

[neozeric]

I've been trying all day to fit the ms-8 up front. Can't find a spot. In the trunk it goes. Is the line driver required/recommended? if yes, how to turn the two wires into the RCA inputs the overdrive wants as an input? Finally, the remote for the overdrive unit, ok to use the remote off the headunit? or wire nearby? Thanks in advance.

 

[h65]

...Just for future readers benefit, *

The pin # drawings are a view from the plug side, and not the loom side, correct?
QUOTE]

Correct. Pin 1 is the top left as you are looking in to the plug cavity with the locking tab up top.

(hey... you have an XR6-Turbo-Ute? OMG, that's so cool!)

 

[h65]

I've been trying all day to fit the ms-8 up front. Can't find a spot. In the trunk it goes. Is the line driver required/recommended? if yes, how to turn the two wires into the RCA inputs the overdrive wants as an input? Finally, the remote for the overdrive unit, ok to use the remote off the headunit? or wire nearby? Thanks in advance.

It may work just fine to run RCAs further back without a line driver. It should be easy to mock up.

Will the MS-8 fit under your driver's seat?

 

[Aus550]

(hey... you have an XR6-Turbo-Ute? OMG, that's so cool!)

Haha would you believe no-ones ever said 'mad V10 beemer' but the Ute always gets the comments even here :ford: and it shares 99% of its architecture with the local choice of taxi-cab :doh:

If your import laws were a little more lax, you could have one landed over there for about $5k USD

More importantly the XR8 (4 door sedan & ute versions) they've sold here for the last few years, has the coyote V8, but Ford Australia decided to top mount supercharge it as standard. They're good for around 530 rwhp tune only!

Sorry for going completely off-topic :cheers:

 

[neozeric]

It may work just fine to run RCAs further back without a line driver. It should be easy to mock up.

Will the MS-8 fit under your driver's seat?

I'll check the driver's seat today. Why did you use the PAC TR-4? Just trying to wrap my head around it. To go from the factory wire to Male RCAs, just cut an RCA cable and solder the two wires to the factory wires?

 

[h65]

Why did you use the PAC TR-4? Just trying to wrap my head around it. To go from the factory wire to Male RCAs, just cut an RCA cable and solder the two wires to the factory wires?

The PAC TR-4 was to use the 6-volt "Audio Enable" wire as the remote accessory trigger. It's a low-voltage relay to output 12V on a 6V trigger.

Yes, you could solder RCAs directly to the factory wires instead of soldering them to a Molex connector.

 

[Lagometer]

I need a book called "audio for even dumber dummies"

 

[neozeric]

The PAC TR-4 was to use the 6-volt "Audio Enable" wire as the remote accessory trigger. It's a low-voltage relay to output 12V on a 6V trigger.

Yes, you could solder RCAs directly to the factory wires instead of soldering them to a Molex connector.

Thanks. Got it now :clap2:

 

[zzachattack2]

I checked the pre-amp signals of my 400a system and found them to be in range of RCA line level. This is just confirming what we expected.

The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source.

Based on this and the link to the wiring diagrams, looks like these are probably balanced signals? (With a common shield grounded only at the HU)

So either +/- reference to ground should be about half of the voltage you measured, right? I am planning on using a miniDSP 2x4 balanced for processing; it is capable of inputs up to 2 Vrms balanced (or 4 Vrms unbalanced).

 

[RevvdMedia]

From the wiring diagrams that Heinocerous posted at http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=404864&postcount=41 there are three plugs labeled C4270, C2385A and C2385B.


C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation. Search mouser.com for part number 34690-0160 -
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

C2385A has most of the speaker outputs. Use mouser.com #34690-0161- http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.


Molex has drawings that show the pin numbers:
http://www.molex.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/346900161_sd.pdf and http://www.molex.com/elqNow/elqRedir.htm?ref=http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/347720142_sd.pdf.

Regarding these Molex connectors, they appear to have pins on the back as connectors. Are they designed to have the wires soldered to them?

I'd like a plug and play solution, plus that allows me to do some fabbing without permanently splicing and being stuck if something didn't work.

 

[Dannyho]

I thought this car's stereo did all its processing before the amp, and you would still need a cleansweep or the like to level the outputs before running through an independent system? is this not the case?

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