PaddyPrix
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2019
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- 13
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- Location
- San Diego
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- First Name
- Patrick
- Vehicle(s)
- 07 335is, 08 LR2, 13 Tahoe, 18 Mustang GT x2
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Honest, I'm a straight up idiot, and I change out my rotors, fluid, and pads. Get a $99 mechanic socket/wrench set from HD/HF/Lowes, can borrow a vacuum bleeder from an Autozone, and buy yourself a few bottles of Motul RBF 600 from Amazon. If you still don't feel comfy, you could search your local Craigslist or Facebook for a mobile mechanic, get some quotes, and hand them your parts. Anybody who has done it it before should generally do it in less than an hour, two at most, and when you figure $60-75/hr, you're no worse than $150.Times like these makes me want to just do the work myself honestly, but I don't have a free weekend or area to do the work until the event.
I commute to San Jose once a week, and at the suggestion of a buddy, I am going to David's autoworks. His prices are much better than the Napa shops so I'll update once I get it done.
The other reason for doing it yourself, is that you can then keep a set of track pads/rotors, and street pads/rotors. Track pads will work on the street, and they'll suck since there's no way you're braking hard enough or long enough for them to really work, and they'll chew your rotors. Street pads will work on the track... depending on where you go, could be as short as two laps.
Considering the NorCal tracks have walls pretty much everywhere unlike the Central and SoCal tracks, track pads/rotors may be a sound investment. This was from my first track day, and it did not take very long for something so heavy to generate enough heat to melt through the stock pads and boil the fluid.
Spoiler alert - I survived and drive it like 30 sec faster.
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