S550 c pillar trunk creaking/rattling

[eboybrown]

Hi all, I had some rattling noises on my 2015 Mustang gt that sounded like it was coming from the passenger rear c pillar. I took it off and wedged some folded up electrical tape and of course, it did nothing. So I did some research and discovered that on some s550s develop a creaking from the quarter panel body panels hitting each other in the truck because of maybe a spot weld gave out or the seam sealer or whatever: but mine has developed this issue with only 37k miles. I’m not sure how to fix this as it’s driving me insane. I tried spraying wd40 between the seams as you can see in the video to try and stop it but it didn’t work. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem??

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[eboybrown]

Hi all, I had some rattling noises on my 2015 Mustang gt that sounded like it was coming from the passenger rear c pillar. I took it off and wedged some folded up electrical tape and of course, it did nothing. So I did some research and discovered that on some s550s develop a creaking from the quarter panel body panels hitting each other in the truck because of maybe a spot weld gave out or the seam sealer or whatever: but mine has developed this issue with only 37k miles. I’m not sure how to fix this as it’s driving me insane. I tried spraying wd40 between the seams as you can see in the video to try and stop it but it didn’t work. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem??

Here is what it sounded like on the inside.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

Get yourself some really good steel pop-rivets, the type where the mandrels break and remain inside the rivet body, probably 3/16 diameter. Do some research to find which rivets are better structurally. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/STRUCTURAL-MANDREL-PROTRUDING-DIAMETER-425-504/dp/B078XLC37P?gQT=1

Then drill holes and install them in between the spot welds. You can put one halfway in between each of the welds. Maybe even two will fit depending on the weld spacing. Rivets are an acceptable repair for bad or missing spot welds. You could place a dab of sealer over each hole before you install the rivet, just for squeak/rattle protection, or if it is a wet area.


This video shows both pop rivets (noteworthy) and self-piercing (ignore-need 2-sided access, steel is difficult, aluminum is easier). You can use a manual squeeze lever type rivet gun.


/retired body structures engr

 

[eboybrown]

Get yourself some really good steel pop-rivets, the type where the mandrels break and remain inside the rivet body, probably 3/16 diameter. Do some research to find which rivets are better structurally. Then drill holes and install them in between the spot welds. You can put one halfway in between each the welds. Maybe even two will fit depending on the weld spacing. Rivets are an acceptable repair for bad or missing spot welds. You could place a dab of sealer over each hole before you install the rivet, just for squeak/rattle protection, or if it is a wet area.


This video shows both pop rivets (noteworthy) and self-piercing (ignore- need 2-sided access).


/retired body structures engr

That’s an amazing idea, thank you so much. I will most likely end up going this route!

 

[KO Stradivarius]

That’s an amazing idea, thank you so much. I will most likely end up going this route!

Please note my edits to the post above, I added a rivet I found. Good luck!

PS: Be careful when you drill, make sure you don't drill through the outer panel!!!!

 

[eboybrown]

Please note my edits to the post above, I added a rivet I found. Good luck!

I saw that! Have you done this repair for this same problem before?

 

[KO Stradivarius]

I saw that! Have you done this repair for this same problem before?

Not for this particular problem, but I have used rivets as repairs for missing or poor quality welds in my career. There are some high-quality pop-rivets out there and they are perfectly good for joining in these situations, or in a field service or collision repair, as they mention in the video.

I'm guessing that the rattle/squeak is due to relative movement in the joint, maybe due to a bad weld at production, edge weld, or a cracked weld. It happens, there are thousands of spot welds on any steel body. Rivets will clamp it down.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

PS: I just noticed the link to the rivet I posted is for a 1/4" rivet, which is way too large really. You can use 3/16" or even 1/8". Sorry but I was moving too fast yesterday when I found that rivet.

Also, make sure the rivet grip range is low enough. If you are joining 2 panels they will likely be <2.0mm total (<1.0 mm each). And now that I think about it, a manual squeeze lever gun may have difficulty installing these types of rivets, since they will be stronger than typical. An air or electric rivet gun is better but if you don't have one just do your best with a manual one. This may be a good reason to use a 1/8" rivet, it will be easier to install.

 

[eboybrown]

PS: I just noticed the link to the rivet I posted is for a 1/4" rivet, which is way too large really. You can use 3/16" or even 1/8". Sorry but I was moving too fast yesterday when I found that rivet.

Also, make sure the rivet grip range is low enough. If you are joining 2 panels they will likely be <2.0mm total (<1.0 mm each). And now that I think about it, a manual squeeze lever gun may have difficulty installing these types of rivets, since they will be stronger than typical. An air or electric rivet gun is better but if you don't have one just do your best with a manual one. This may be a good reason to use a 1/8" rivet, it will be easier to install.

Sounds good, whatever you think is best here I will end up doing. You definitely know more about this topic than me

 

[eboybrown]

PS: I just noticed the link to the rivet I posted is for a 1/4" rivet, which is way too large really. You can use 3/16" or even 1/8". Sorry but I was moving too fast yesterday when I found that rivet.

Also, make sure the rivet grip range is low enough. If you are joining 2 panels they will likely be <2.0mm total (<1.0 mm each). And now that I think about it, a manual squeeze lever gun may have difficulty installing these types of rivets, since they will be stronger than typical. An air or electric rivet gun is better but if you don't have one just do your best with a manual one. This may be a good reason to use a 1/8" rivet, it will be easier to install.

I’m about ready to buy the rivets and rivet gun, do you mind sending the Amazon link to the rivet size and brand you recommend? I just want to make sure I get the right one!

 

[eboybrown]

The noise is different now. It sounds like suspension creaking but I’m so lost, does anyone have any idea what this noise is? I sprayed wd40 and grease all over the passenger rear suspension and it’s still making this creaking noise. I tried using a pry bar and pushing the lower control arm around but I can’t hear anything. It only does it when I’m turning or going over a teeter totter type bump.

 

[eboybrown]

So it ended up being the seat latches for that last video. I still had to rivet some of the inner body on the inside right part of the trunk which was my original inquiry. After fixing, a new creaking noise started which ended up being the seat latches that you can grease up and the noise will go away.

 

[JGalarse14]

So it ended up being the seat latches for that last video. I still had to rivet some of the inner body on the inside right part of the trunk which was my original inquiry. After fixing, a new creaking noise started which ended up being the seat latches that you can grease up and the noise will go away.

Little late, but can you show me exactly where you greased for the seat latch? I think mine is doing the same and it's driving me nuts.

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