Running Square - Sway Bar Settings

[teamsketch]

I'm running a square tire setup on the R and want to see if anyone else has done this and if so, if they made any adjustments to the sway bars.

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[cjgt350]

I'm running a square tire setup on the R and want to see if anyone else has done this and if so, if they made any adjustments to the sway bars.

Square 315 setup here as well with R springs, rear sway and aero. -2.8* front and -1.4* rear camber also. Have a bit of body roll on the track. Contemplating sway bars as well for a bit more lateral grip. Would also like to hear feedback.

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[wildcatgoal]

FWIW: I run soft or middle setting in the rear, second from soft or second from full hard front depending on preference at the given track - this pertaining to Steeda sway bars with 350 rate front springs and 1200 rate rear springs on a GT with 305/30-19 square NT01s, -2.3 front camber, -1.8 rear camber.

 

[nastang87xx]

I'm 305 all around, for autox I put my BMR sway bar at full tilt. For track, I back it all the way off to softest. My rear sway bar is stock. It's actually very well matched to the car. Change the rear links if you think it feels sloppy. But before any of this, tie down your IRS out first. BMR lockout kit, Steeda IRS braces...whatever you prefer. Locking out the rear subframe will help with turn in more than you'd think since the subframe won't be slopping around anymore. And skip vertical link upgrades. They're primarily a high horsepower drag race tool. The GT4 actually runs the OEM stamped pieces.

 

[cjgt350]

Change the rear links if you think it feels sloppy. But before any of this, tie down your IRS out first. BMR lockout kit, Steeda IRS braces...whatever you prefer. Locking out the rear subframe will help with turn in more than you'd think since the subframe won't be slopping around anymore. And skip vertical link upgrades. They're primarily a high horsepower drag race tool. The GT4 actually runs the OEM stamped pieces.

I've done all that as well. Sounds like I need to just install some aftermarket sway bars and do some track testing. About to install the lower control arms bushings out for spherical bearings as well.

 

[firestarter2]

I'm 305 all around, for autox I put my BMR sway bar at full tilt. For track, I back it all the way off to softest. My rear sway bar is stock. It's actually very well matched to the car. Change the rear links if you think it feels sloppy. But before any of this, tie down your IRS out first. BMR lockout kit, Steeda IRS braces...whatever you prefer. Locking out the rear subframe will help with turn in more than you'd think since the subframe won't be slopping around anymore. And skip vertical link upgrades. They're primarily a high horsepower drag race tool. The GT4 actually runs the OEM stamped pieces.

Do you recommend Steeda or BMR? for track use?

 

[nastang87xx]

Do you recommend Steeda or BMR? for track use?

Either or is fine. Steeda has 4 adjustability settings rather than 3 but 3 seems to be just fine too. Double check with them to make sure their bar will fit. I don't know if I was given misinformation but at the time, I was told by Steeda that their front bar wouldn't work. I think that has been rectified though.

 

[firestarter2]

Either or is fine. Steeda has 4 adjustability settings rather than 3 but 3 seems to be just fine too. Double check with them to make sure their bar will fit. I don't know if I was given misinformation but at the time, I was told by Steeda that their front bar wouldn't work. I think that has been rectified though.

sorry i meant IRS Subframe Support Braces

 

[nastang87xx]

Ah, I have the BMR lockout kit. I think the Steeda braces may do a SLIGHTLY better job at completely holding down the IRS cradle because they bolt up to two other spots vs one on the unibody. But ANYTHING is better than the garbage stamped mounts. I went with the BMR lockout kit because of weight.

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